As a buyer of several Fluke brand meters over the last few years, I've seen a lot of incorrect and misleading information.   My goal is to write a useful guide to help the buyer learn about Fluke meters, and avoid some common pitfalls.  This will be a work in progress.

I'm limiting my guides to Fluke hand held meters at this time - simply because I don't have the experience or knowledge to include the laboratory or benchtop meters.   The general advice I give about buying and sellers will apply, and I know of some great sellers on E-bay selling the benchtop type meters.   My advice is to go with an expert seller (as discussed in this guide) and you can't go wrong.

Because E-bay limits the size of buying guides, I had to split this guide into sections and sub-sections.  This guide is the "master," so to speak - all other guides are linked from this guide.

If you have any questions or comments, or if you see any errors in this or any of my guides, please contact me using E-bay's "contact member" function.  (E-bay rules prohibit me from giving my e-mail address here)

SELLERS and BUYING CONSIDERATIONS

The most common mistake I see on E-bay listings is sellers selling an older model meter using copied information about a later model meter.  The 87, because it has been around for so long and in different versions, is one that frequently described incorrectly.    Many sellers have a picture of an 87 (no series) meter, but have the text description for the newest 87-V meter.    Be sure the picture is of the actual item, and be sure the description matches the picture.  If you can't read the model information from the picture, make sure to ask the seller exactly what the front of the meter says.  See my section on MODELS AND SERIES (linked) to understand the various types and the differences between each version.

Sellers who offer Fluke meters for sale on E-bay differ greatly.   Some know nothing about meters at all. They either inherited one, found one, traded for one, or obtained one in a lot of items as part of an estate sale or other liquidation sale.   Some are users who are selling their meter because they have changed jobs or have upgraded to another model.  Others are experts who have the equipment and knowledge to repair, calibrate, or check the calibration of a meter.  

Most, if not all sellers I've seen are honest - they will tell you in their ad their level of experience and knowledge about meters.   As the knowledge of the seller goes up, risk goes down, and vice versa.    I'm not saying that an inexperienced seller will mislead someone, it's just easy for someone who doesn't know how a meter should operate to know if something is wrong.  A user who does not use every  function  may not know that the unused functions don't work properly.    Expert sellers will have tested the meter under all conditions and modes - these are the meters you can be most sure about.   The expert sellers I know that sell on E-bay are very knowledgeable and honest; they  want to help the buyer buy the right meter.  These sellers know what the are selling,  describe their items well, and have the knowledge to answer your questions.   

Balancing risk is the cost - the expert seller's meter will go for more money than the non expert seller's meter, as the expert seller has had to buy specialized equipment, and spend time testing and/or repairing the meter before listing it.   It can help to ask questions, and I've dealt with some great non-experienced sellers who will read the operator's manual (if they have it) and read my instructions and conduct some tests to determine the condition of the meter.  Some sellers simply aren't willing or able to do some tests.  Basic checks that can be done without other test equipment provide only limited information. 

Of course, most sellers will warrant their item and offer an evaluation time during which the meter can be returned.   The buyer would then only be out the cost of shipping (both ways) and their time. 

Finally, an inexperienced buyer might not know the checks to ask a seller to make - these buyers should consider a meter from an expert seller.

Expert sellers will list the equipment they use to check a meter's calibration, and give you the calibration dates for that equipment.  For example "I checked this on my ACME  model XXX"  which was calibrated on date XX/YY/ZZ by Smith labs.   If the seller doesn't have this information in his ad, ask him or her what equipment was used to check the meter, and when it was calibrated.  I'll say more in my calibration section, but using an uncalibrated instrument to check the calibration of a meter is no good - checking a meter with an uncalibrated instrument tells you nothing.

Some meters are sold by calibration labs - often they will either state that they have calibrated the meter, or will offer to provide a calibration certificate.  Please see my CALIBRATION section for more information, but the bottom line is, whether you buy from a seller with calibration equipment, buy from a seller who also has a commercial calibration lab, or buy a meter and have it calibrated by a lab of your choosing, you are trusting SOMEONE that the unit was really checked and or calibrated.   It is still a good idea to ask the calibration lab what equipment was used, and when this equipment was last calibrated.  Reputable labs will not mind this request. 

Unless it has been abused, Fluke meters will hold their calibrations for a long time.  I've seen old model 77s that are more accurate than Fluke's specification after 20 years.   Even if the seller knows nothing, if the meter comes on and works in all ranges chances are it's still good.  (You might need to replace the fuses, see "Questions to ask sellers, below)

Make sure that the seller provides pictures of the actual meter being sold - it's too easy to get a photo from Fluke's website of a brand new, pretty meter to use to sell a scratched up, dirty meter.  Plus, a seller may accidentally use a picture of the latest model to sell his older model with different features.  Don't assume anything other than what you can actually see!  If there's no picture of the back of the meter, ask for one, or be willing to take a risk that it may be scratched, marked or otherwise defaced.    I've even purchased a meter from a seller who wrapped the test leads around the meter to obscure markings made with a permanent (paint) marker!  

Some sellers are very honest and will tell you all they know in the ad - others believe that "if they don't ask, I don't have to say."   So, be cautious and ask good questions, and be complete.

QUESTIONS TO ASK SELLERS
(If the information is not included in the ad)

If the seller does not have the user's manual, see my section "MANUALS, SPECIFICATIONS AND PARTS" to see how to obtain one from Fluke's website.  The manual provides useful information that can be used to evaluate a meter.

1.  Is the meter pictured (one or more photos) the actual item for sale?
 If not, then ask if the seller can send you a picture.  Otherwise, you will have to accept the seller's description of the physical condition of the item.  Ask for the exact model and series (if any) listed on the front panel. Often sellers do not realize the differences, and will list a meter as a different series based on information found on other websites.   People's opinions differ - one person's "like new" may be another person's "good."  It's great to buy a meter that the seller described as  "fair to good" and receive a meter that, in your opinion, is  "like new," but the reverse is not true! 

2.   Ask if there are any markings, initials or other writing on the meter that is not visible in the ad pictures.   Ask if there are any scratches, scrapes or other blemishes.  If the leads are wrapped around the meter, ask if the leads are covering up any markings.  (I learned this one the hard way!)

3.  If the pictures of the meter lens aren't clear, ask for a clear picture, or ask if there are any scratches on the lens.  Ask if the protective film is still on the lens.  Good sellers know that the lens is important, and will specifically describe it's condition.  

4.  If a picture is not provided with the meter on, ask if the seller can provide one.  It is especially useful to view a picture taken during the one or two second "self test" that occurs just after the meter is switched on.   During this test, all LCD segments are on.  (NOTE: the FLUKE 87-V requires that the "Autohold" key be pressed while the meter is turned on to enter the LCD test mode.  Other newer models may also require that a button be held down to test the LCD segments.  Have the seller consult the user's manual, if available.)  If the LCD segments are uniform and dim, or if there are cracks or black blobs, it is likely that the LCD is defective.  See the "MANUALS, SPECIFICATIONS and PARTS" to see how to determine if the LCD is available.  If some segments are dark but others are dim and/or flickering, it may be simply a connection problem.  You can buy kits on E-bay to fix this condition; they will provide instructions. 

4.  Ask what accessories are included. (Most sellers will state this in their ad - read the description and don't assume what you see is included. Obviously, if a seller has the meter connected to test equipment to verify operation, this equipment is NOT included.)  Probes, holsters, and other various accessories may be included.   The RPM pickup probe used with the automotive meters will cost 20-50 dollars separately - so if this is not included, bid accordingly.  Good Fluke brand probes run from 15 to 25 dollars, again, another factor to include when determining your bid price.    Good aftermarket probes can be used at a substantial savings.  For meters with temperature measuring capability, a temperature probe may be included.  Or, a temperature probe converter may be included.  (See my TEMPERATURE guide.)


5.  Ask expert sellers if the fuses are good. See my section below "FUSE CHECK."  If the seller is inexperienced, ask him or her to read the instruction manual (if available) to determine how to test the fuses.   Fuses cost from 5 dollars up to 15 or 20 dollars each (depending on fuse rating, type and where you buy) so this is an important factor you should use to determine your bid price!

6.  With no probes connected, the meter should read close to, but not exactly zero in the voltage functions.  In the resistance mode, the display should read "0L" with no flashing.  In the current (ampere) measuring mode, the display should be zero (or very close)

7.  If probes are available, ask the seller to connect the red probe to the "V ohms diode" jack, and the black probe to the COM jack.  With the meter in resistance mode, the resistance should be less than .6 ohms when the probe tips are touched together.  Higher readings indicates the probes should be replaced.  (Opinions may vary as to what is acceptable lead resistance.)

8.  If the seller  has checked the calibration using his or her own equipment, ask what equipment was used, when it was last calibrated, and who calibrated it.   (calibration section to be added)

9.  If the seller is claiming that the unit was calibrated by an outside lab (or if the seller operates a calibration lab), ask if a calibration certificate will be supplied, or for other proof that the meter was calibrated.   (Note: the absence of a certificate does not mean the calibration isn't proper or as good, it's just a paper copy of someone's promise that the meter is calibrated.) (calibration section to be added)


CALIBRATION

(in progress)

LIFETIME WARRANTY 
Please follow the link to the  LIFETIME WARRANTY section.


MANUALS, SPECIFICATIONS, PARTS:

Many of Fluke's manuals are available for download from Fluke's website.   Go to Fluke.com, select "service," then "replacement parts."

From there, you can select "quick reference search" to get a list of the available, common parts for many meters. 

Also, you can select "manual search."  You can enter a model number in the top "search" box, or you can select "all products" or "discontinued products" in the next box.   In the third box, you can select the model number.   You will need to pay attention to the series of the meter as well.   See MODELS and SERIES. (linked)

Also on the "replacement parts" page is the telephone number for Fluke - you can order parts, if they are available, by speaking to a Fluke associate.    The "quick search" guide lists common parts you will need such as fuses,   LCD elastomeric connectors (more on what those are later) and other parts as available.  Remember, many of the models sold on E-bay are "out of support."  This means that replacement parts are no longer being produced, and as soon as a part is out of stock, that part will no longer be available.  Keep this in mind before bidding on a meter - check the "quick reference guide" to see the parts situation.  The rear case for the  "tapered" "three series" meters (77-III, 26-III, 79-III) is no longer available.  My guess is, Fluke would rather sell you a new 300 dollar meter than a 20 dollar case to make your old meter look like new.

Many E-bay sellers sell parts for Fluke meters, and provide value-added services such as instructions for installation.  Elastomeric connectors for LCD (eliminates problems with faded digit)  fuses, meter case parts,  carrying cases and accessories are all available from some great E-bay sellers.  (Note: I do not sell Fluke parts on E-bay, so I am not promoting my items here.)   Every seller I have dealt with has provided excellent service.  


TRUE RMS

I considered explaining the concept of RMS here, but there are some very good websites that present this information using helpful graphics.  It's much more difficult to describe using text, and also more difficult to follow.  Search for "RMS" or "true RMS" for some good material to explain just what an RMS value is, and why some Fluke meters are "true RMS."  A quick explanation is that True RMS meters will display the correct RMS value for an AC voltage or current regardless of the waveform, while another type will only provide the RMS value of a sine wave.  Technically, the Fluke "TRUE RMS" feature only works with symmetrical waveforms, but that's  too advanced of a topic for this guide.

Which Fluke meters have the "true RMS" feature?  The 87, 89, 187, 189, 76, and many others do - it's right there on the panel.  As far as I know, all Fluke Meters that have the "true RMS" feature are marked as such on the front panel.   (EXCEPTIONS:  The Fluke 87 made for Xerox is a True RMS meter, but the "TRUE RMS" was removed from the panel to make room for the "XEROX" identification. Also, I recently learned that the 27/FM (military version of 27 is also a true RMS meter, despite the fact that it is not labeled as such.  This is a little known fact - even the representative from Fluke did not know about this special case!  I thank an expert Fluke seller for this information)

For most folks, the "Average responding, RMS calibrated" meter will do just fine.  True RMS meters aren't more accurate than meters that aren't true RMS, you just need to realize that for anything other than a sine wave, you won't get the "true RMS" value of that voltage.   If you are making a measurement of a non-sine wave, chances are, you will know how to interpret the reading of a "non true RMS" meter, or, you probably own one.

TEMPERATURE:
Please follow this link to the TEMPERATURE section.


MODELS and SERIES:
Please follow this link to the MODELS and SERIES  section.

One note: Fluke makes/made versions of these meters for the government - these have no "series" designation, but a slash and two letters after the model designation.  (Fluke 77/AN for an example.)   There is a corresponding "civilian" version of each of these, and the difference is a labeling only.  The military versions aren't "more rugged,"  "more accurate," or "better" in any way. 

 UPDATE!!!  To every rule, there are one or more exceptions.   There is at least one exception to this rule that one of E-bay's expert sellers has informed me about.  The Military version of the Fluke 27, the 27/FM, is a true RMS meter.   I believe that the "non military" 27 does not have the True RMS feature, but I have not tested this, as I do not have access to a non military 27 to test.   This is such a rare case that the Fluke representative that answered my question did not know that the 27/FM was a true RMS meter!  I'm glad that one of the expert meter sellers on E-bay informed me that I was incorrect.   So, the 27/FM is "better," because it has the "true RMS" feature. 




CATEGORY RATINGS

In my section on models and types, and when reviewing information about Fluke meters on Fluke's or a vendor's web-site, you will see references to "category ratings."

The IEC (International Electrotechnical Commission) has established safety standards for voltmeters used for voltages below 1000V.  The category rating (I, II, III, and IV) determine how well the meter can withstand a test voltage spike through a specified resistance.

Older Fluke instruments are not category rated - Some are rated at category III, and some at category IV.  The rating is shown on the front of the meter.   Unless you are an industrial electrician, you don't need to consider category ratings.  If you are an industrial electrician, then you know far more than I could explain in this brief guide.  

The only case I am aware of where essentially the same meter is available in category III and not category III rated meters is the older 87s.  I don't see much price difference based on this fact.  The newer 87's go for more money because of the features of the new model, but it's difficult to say how much of the increase is due to the category rating increase.  

I do know that the newest 70 type meters (73-III, 70-III) have some arc shielding that is not present on the non-rated 70 type meters, but the average person working on residential or small business electrical systems will probably never need the extra protection.   For general electronics work category rating is unimportant, as most equipment used in the home or small business is not capable of delivering the power during a fault condition as that of an industrial electrical system.

Be aware that many sellers see the category III or IV rating of the newer meters and mistakenly copy this information and use it in their description of their older meter.  The older 87 series meters are not rated, and the newest 87 (no series) meters are only category III rated.     If category rating is important to you, be sure to get the exact model from the seller, and check with Fluke's website.  Many on-line (not E-bay) vendors have incorrect information about these meters on their website - get your information from Fluke directly, or one of E-bay's expert sellers.  (Who often know as much as or more than many Fluke employees about the older meters.)

FUSE CHECK

Fluke meters use fuses to protect the meter's current inputs only.  The fuses have no effect on the voltage, resistance, frequency, diode check or any other function other than current measurement. 

The procedure to check fuses varies according to meter type:  (see my section on MODELS and SERIES for examples of the meter types)

70 type, 70 tapered type and rugged type:  (note that the 70 model (all series) does not have current measuring capability, and thus, has no fuses to check)  Also, some early 70 type meters have an unfused 10 ampere range.

1. Set the meter to resistance, and insert one probe in the V(ohms) diode jack.  (normal location for red test lead) 
2. Apply the probe tip to the current measuring jack or jacks (if the meter has more than one current range)
3. The resistance should be low, 0 to 15 ohms or so.  (closer to 0 for high current fuses (11 ampere, 15 ampere, closer to 15 for lower current fuses.  (ma))
4. If the meter shows "0L" the fuse is blown.

80 type:

Set the meter to measure AC volts.  Insert a probe into each current jack - the meter will beep when the probe is inserted if the fuse is good.

(more to be added)

Again, this is a work in progress, so check back for more info.