From collectibles to cars, buy and sell all kinds of items on eBayWelcome! Sign in or register.
aAdvanced Search
Popular products
No suggestions.

Reviews & Guides

Write a guide

FYI on Recessed Can or Pot Lighting for Beginners

by: daryljernigan( 292Feedback score is 100 to 499)
3 out of 3 people found this guide helpful.


FYI on Recessed Can or Pot Lighting for Beginners


With lighting design at an all time high with interior design professionals and home owners, it seems that to little information is given about this type of lighting fixture and it's uses. I hope that this information will be useful to those looking to move into the new lighting options using this type of lighting and fixtures.

Features of Recessed Can Lighting:
 
Safety Switch - All new recessed light cans sold today have a thermal safety cut out switch mounted to the side of the light can. This safety switch is designed to eliminate heat damage to the integral wiring of the fixture due to excessive heat generated by the inability of the fixture to dissipate generated lamp heat and most commonly the use of improper lamp wattage or improper installation of insulation around the fixture. The symptom of overheating is that the light blinks on and off by its self. It overheats shuts off, cools down and turns back on. If the proper lamp wattage is installed, try removing the insulation covering the top and or sides of the fixture based on the IC rating. This should resolve the problem if it was caused by insulation, if the problem is that the fixture does not have enough overhead clearance you can try the use of CFLs "Compact Fluorescent Lamps", these lamps while producing the equivalent amount if not more light use less energy or actual power "Watts" and  produce up to 75 percent  less thermal heat. NEVER be tempted to remove or by-pass this safety device, doing so can cause the fixture to generate enough heat to damage the wiring and start a fire.
 
IC Rated- these fixtures are used in locations where you will be placing insulation in contact with the sides of the fixture. It is not recommended placing insulation over the top of the fixture; this will trap heat generated by the lamp.
 
NON-IC Rated- these fixtures require that a minimum free air clearance of three inches all around the fixture be maintained for safe operation and heat dissipation. This means that no insulation can be in contact with this fixture.
 
Air Tight- these fixtures are sealed to prevent air flow through the fixture in both directions. Most often used in open air attics, where dust or dirt can filter in to the living space through the fixture. All holes in the fixture are sealed with a foam backed or aluminum tape. In addition the use of Air-Tight trim kits may be used which seal around the lip of the fixture as an air tight up-grade to existing fixtures.
 
Low voltage- these fixtures come in a verity of sizes and configurations, and are still wired to the standard 120 vac "volts alternating current", how ever they use an often removable transformer for repair which steps the voltage down to 12 vac. This allows for the use of smaller yet more versatile lighting control through lamp selection, these lamps come in wide beam or flood to extremely narrow or tight spot beams for exact lighting requirements. These fixtures use special trims which come in a wide verity of types and styles depending on the desired lighting effect. There are now available retro-fit trims which convert conventional light cans to low voltage fixtures. Special Note, All Low Voltage fixtures require Low Voltage Dimmers if dimming is required.
 
Standard voltage- these fixtures come in a verity of sizes and configurations as well. From the small three inch cans all the way up to eight inch cans, and include a verity of square and rectangle cans used in walls to light halls, pathways, stairways and stairwells or landings. They use 120 vac and standard dimmers for lighting level control. They use standard BR30 lamps in either flood or spot configurations. Now you can purchase CFLs encased in a BR30 reflective globe which produces similar lighting results at a fraction of the utility cost. Many CFLs are also dimmable and do not require a special dimmer.
 
General notes- all recessed light cans should be mounted no less then 3 inches form any flammable material or surface per manufacture instructions. This includes mounting fixtures directly under plywood roofing underlayment. If you mount the fixture in a space which uses 2x8 construction with roofing materials nailed directly above, there will not be adequate heat dissipation for a fore, five or six inch standard fixture and this presents a risk of fire. If the install is already completed in this application your will see the Thermal Safety work.
 
Features of Recessed Lighting Trims:
 
Trim Styles- there are a large selection of trims to meet the special needs of lighting design and to give the effect you desire.
 
Flat surface trims are designed to let the bottom bevel of the lamp protrude beneath the finished ceiling and trim. This allows the light to project outward in all directions. Used mostly in general lighting applications of large areas like family or living rooms.
 
Baffle trims are used predominantly in focused or wall wash lighting. The lamp can be pulled up into the fixture there by reducing visual glare. Used mostly in living space small area lighting and preferred in kitchen counter washing.
 
Eye Ball trims are used for highlighting or accent lighting. Typical use includes a spot lamp verses a flood type lamp. Used mostly to accent art work, over fire places, walls, columns, niches or on pitch ceilings where the lamp is directed straight down for general lighting applications.
 
Surface Drop trims are new to the market and use a combination on ornate metal and colorful glass to bring these trims in to visual focus. Used in office spaces or when ever attention to the fixture is desired as an added accent to the decor and not just it’s lighting effect.
 
Bath or Shower trims are closed face trims which keep out moisture from the fixture interior and also keep flammable objects from being able to make contact with the lamp. These fixtures are generally limited to 40 or 60 watt lamps but can be increased up to 100 watt CFL lamp which only uses 24 watts of power "less heat than a 25 watt lamp". These trims are used over showers and bath tubs, also now required on recessed lighting when used in closets or pantries in many jurisdictions. There are new additions to this trim recently as well; there is the traditional flat surface trim which we have all seen. It uses a standard type -A- lamp which is pulled up into the fixture so as to not come in contact with the trim lens "comes in plastic and glass". This trim typically does not offer very good lighting other than just under the trim and creating shadows around the entire space. With the interdiction in the last few years of the drop globe trim "currently in glass only" which looks like half of a ball hanging from the ceiling ring, the lighting effect is greatly increased due to the ability to actually drop the lamp below the ceiling into the globe and still maintain a safe clearance. An additional benefit to this trim is the ease to which you can change the lamp, simply rotate the globe 1/4 turn and it drops out to expose the lamp for replacement.
 
There are two basic physical types of recessed lighting cans:
 
Old Work Fixtures- these are used for ceiling installations which have sheetrock or plaster ceilings already installed. They are installed by cutting the appropriate diameter hole in the ceiling using a keyhole saw or special cutter designed for use with a drill, then pulling the wire down through the hole and making the required connections to the fixture and inserting the fixture can up through the hole and pressing into place the fixture retaining clips which hold the fixture secure to the ceiling. Install the desired trim unit and the lamp and your ready to go with no patching or painting required.
 
New Work Fixtures- these fixtures are used where there is no hard ceiling in place as of yet. They are held in place by either nailing or screwing the adjustable bars to the ceiling joists at the desired location. Screwing allows for easy relocation of the fixtures with out damaging the fixture. Just finish looping the wire between the fixtures and making the necessary connections to complete the rough-in installation. Lamps and trims are always installed after finish paint is completed.
 
 If you have additional questions about recessed lighting please contact me with your questions.
 
PLEASE VOTE ON THIS GUIDE
If you found the information informative or useful or just interesting VOTE YES or If you found that you could never use this information or that you learned nothing from it or just was of no interest to you then VOTE NO just vote. Thanks for your opinion.
 
Daryl L. Jernigan


Guide ID: 10000000009514868Guide created: 11/26/08 (updated 03/31/09)

 
Was this guide helpful? Report this guide

Ready to share your knowledge with others? Write a guide



Member Information

daryljernigan
daryljernigan( 292Feedback score is 100 to 499) Get fast shipping and excellent service from Top-rated sellers.About Me
See all guides by this member
View items for sale by this memberVisit this seller's eBay Store!
Member has an eBay StoreDaryl's Attic

 


eBay Pulse | eBay Reviews | eBay Stores | Half.com | Austria | France | Germany | Italy | Spain | United Kingdom | Popular Searches
Kijiji | PayPal | ProStores | Apartments for Rent | Shopping.com | Skype | Tickets


About eBay | Announcements | Security Center | Resolution Center | eBay Toolbar | Policies | Government Relations | Site Map | Help
Copyright © 1995-2009 eBay Inc. All Rights Reserved. Designated trademarks and brands are the property of their respective owners. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of the eBay User Agreement and Privacy Policy.
eBay official time