Everything you need to know about HERMES SCARVES

Hermes is arguably the world's foremost seller of quality silk scarves. When you have a Hermes scarf draped over your shoulders, you feel truly wrapped up in luxury.  Every 25 seconds an Hermes scarf is sold somewhere in the world.

The Scarf Process

There are three classic sizes, the most popular 35x35 inch silk scarf, the 55 inch cashmere-silk shawl, and the pocket size, or "pochette" scarf--16 inches square. All Hermes scarves are hand-printed using multiple silk screens. It takes a studio of 20 freelance designers about 2 years to complete a Hermes scarf from design concept, engraving and printing to the hand finishing process. Every scarf tells a unique story, and every scarf has its own name. Each 35 inch scarf contains 65 grams of silk from approximately 250 cocoons. On average, each scarf will have at least 5 different colors on it.  The most colors used on a single scarf is 42 (the "A Vos Crayons" scarf), and there have been occasional monochromatic scarves--though these are rare. Other scarves with a high amount of colors are: Feux d'Artifice, Texas Wildlife, Pierres d'Orient et d'Occident, and Kachinas. Hermes flies the artist designing a scarf to the location that is to be the subject. The only American Hermes scarf designer is Kermit Oliver, a postmaster general in his small Texas town. He hates to fly and the upper management at Hermes had to fly TO him in Texas.  Oliver designed some fabulous North American themed scarves, such as Pony Express, Le Canada, and Les Ameriques.

All Hermes scarves have a hand-stiched rolled hem, called a roulotte. The ladies who roll the scarves are called roulotteuses. If ever you find a scarf with a large single letter off to one side, that is the mark of one of the more experienced rouletesses. For example, on the white care tags on the back of the scarf, you will sometimes see an A, B, C, D, E or a number on both sides of the caretag--this indicates an experienced rouletess finished your scarf.  Notice that the scarves are hemmed toward the front--this is because Emile Maurice Hermes once said that his scarves were so beautiful that even the backs had to be seen. It is important to note that keeping the hem of your Hermes scarf plump is essential. Do not ever iron it. A flattened hem decreased the scarf's value. When you send your scarf out to be dry cleaned, make sure the cleaner knows not to flatten out the hem when ironing--better yet, ask your local Hermes store for a reputable cleaner experienced in cleaning Hermes scarves, and send it there.

Scarf History

Hermes was founded in 1837 as a seller of top quality saddlery and leather goods. One hundred years later, Hermes started selling silk scarves. The first Hermes scarf sold was "Jeu de Omnibus et Dames Blanche" by Hugo Grykgar in 1937. It featured a print of white-wigged ladies playing a popular period game. Since then, over 6,000 designs have been created, and together with the color variations, approximately 25,000 unique scarve designs produced. Some of the earliest scarf designers were: Hugo Grygkar, Phillipe Dumas, Oliver Dumas, Francoise de la Perrier, Henri di Linares, Phillipe LeDoux, Pierre Peron, and Francoise Faconnet.

Hermes scarves were modeled after those worn by Napolean soldiers, and the liberated women of the 1930s eagerly adopted these somewhat masculine scarves. The Hermes scarf was responsible for truly lauching the Hermes name. Today, the scarf remains the most commonly purchased item among the Hermes stock. In the mid-1990s, one Hermes scarf cost $245. Today, they sell for $320.

Spotting Fakes on Ebay

Most Hermes scarves listed on ebay are authentic. However, there may be some listed that are knockoffs, and it is helpful to know the difference. Very simply, make sure the listing has pictures of the Hermes copyright logo, the "Hermes-Paris" label, and where applicable, the artist's signature. Keep in mind that some vintage scarves do not have the copyright label, and some scarves, such as the Mexique, do not have the artist's signature. Also good to see is the label on the back, which should be white unless it is a recent Hermes, and in French/English only. One thing the knockoff's like to do is write in huge letters "HERMES" across the scarves in several places that the originals did not have. Authentic Hermes scarves are not that brash. 

If you are still skeptical, ask the seller if the hem is hand-rolled, with stiches to the FRONT. Here is an easy way to catch a fake, as all authentic Hermes scarves are hand stiched with the back of the stiching towards the front of the scarf. Hermes does this on purpose (see more details above).  So here is an example of a Hermes fake. Notice the rolled hem is smooth.

Also notice the fabric seems to be embossed, a mark of a fake. Finally, when you get familiar with the typical "Hermes Paris" signed logo, you will notice that the font used here is not authentic.

One last thing to pay attention to is the seller themselves: how is their feedback rating, how long have they been selling on ebay, are they located in North America, etc.

Best wishes on finding that perfect Hermes scarf that just may make you a true Hermes afficianado!