Are you new to the reenacting world or wondering how they really dressed in the 1860's? The purpose of this guide is to give you some insight to how the ladies dressed during the Civil War. Of course not all women dress exactly alike and there were many variations, this guide will only outline the most popular of the era.

Bodices were very close fitting with lines to help emphasize the narrowness of the waist and the width of the shoulders. Shoulder seams were lengthened and fell off the shoulders toward the back somewhat. Armscyes (armholes) were also off the shoulder appearing more diagonal then vertical. The dresses fastened down the center front with hooks and eyes or buttons and hand worked buttonholes. The single most common neckline for daywear was the jewel neckline. Also popular was the V neck worn with a chemisette (sideless and sleeveless shirts similar to a dickey). Common characteristics were self fabric piping in the armscyes and neckline and sleeves fullest at the elbow. The two piece coat sleeve was the most popular, also the pagoda and full sleeve gathered into a band at the wrist were often seen. Only a small minority of women ages 15-25 were seen wearing short sleeves.

Skirts were very full and meant to emphasize full hips. There were 3 common waist treatments, directional knife pleats, box pleats, and gauging (cartridge pleating). Directional knife pleats begin at the center front with a small box pleat then continue to the back with pleats facing toward the front. This was the most popular of the era. Box pleats became more popular toward the end of the war when slender hips became more fashionable. Also toward the end of the war the elliptical skirt became fashionable. This skirt is flatter in the front with the fullness in the back also shorter in the front with a small train to the back.

Evening or ball wear followed the same characteristics above but with wide necklines and short sleeves. Expense was shown in the use of fine fabrics and elaborate trimming more commonly seen on the bodices then the skirts.

Unacceptable things include the use of zippers, drawstring waists, elastic necklines or chemise type bodices, short sleeves and open necklines during the day and sequins. If you wish to portray an accurate impression you should avoid these items at all costs.

There are many resources available to help you portray an accurate impression of the lady of the era. Ladies magazines Godey's and Peterson's had fashion plates of what was fashionable in Europe. I have found a great book  Who Wore What by Juanita Leisch which describes the lady from head to foot to be a very useful tool.