I've recieved an incredible number of requests to explain how to convert records to CD. Well, I am writing a book on the subject, but for now here is some basic information to get you started. This is based on using a PC, but a Mac user should find it helpful as well.

The Preamp

There is a lot of misunderstanding as to just what this does for you. To start with, the magnetic cartridge on your turntable has a very low output, and needs to be boosted up to 'line level'. Other components, like tape decks and CD players have built in preamps that do this.

 In addition to this function, it applies the RIAA EQ curve, which is necessary for proper playback. Without this EQ, your records will sound overly bright, noisy, and have no bass.

 True, you could plug your turntable directly into your sound card, and boost the level and apply the curve after recording with a program like Audacity. But after you boost the gain, you'll notice a lot of noise, like AC hum, you didn't hear in the initial playback .

The reason is simple: your computer's sound card has a signal-to-noise-ratio of about -60db. When you raise the level of a recording 20 or 30 db, the signal comes up, but so does the noise floor, becoming audible.

 If you have a good stereo receiver or amp that has a 'Phono' input, and a 'Tape Out' jack you don't need to buy a seperate preamp. 

1. Connect your turntable to the input of either your receiver/amp, or preamp.

2. Connect the 'Tape Out' or preamp output to the 'Line In' jack on your computer's sound card (not the 'mic' jack).  You will need to make a run to Radio Shack for an adaptor to go from the RCA pin plugs on your output cable to a single mini stereo plug (known as a 1/8" 3 conductor plug or tip-ring-sleeve).

Your volume adjustments are made via the audio mixer application on your computer. Right click the speaker icon in your start tray to pull up the mixer settings and properties. In the recording devices section , depending on your operating system, you should be able to specify what inputs are to be active and displayed on your mixer interface. Select 'Line In'. Make sure this fader is at least 3/4 of the way up to start with. It can be lowered later as needed.

 Now you need recording software!

Recording Software

Audacity is the most logical choice for your first recording/editing software, as it's affordable (absolutely free, just put Audacity in your search engine and you'll find it), and it is fairly user friendly. Setting your record levels are simplified , as it has it's own level/gain controls.

Once installed and open, start playing a record into your computer. If your mixer setup is correct, the real-time VU meters will react to the record you are playing.

 Once you learn how to cut, paste and edit in Audacity, you'll be ready to export finished files to create a CD or MP3 disc. There are also de-noising tools that work very well for pops (the click de-noiser) and a broadband 'de-noiser tool' for tape hiss, hum, and rumble.

 Be sure to turn off all other applications when recording to your computer. I don't care if you are running dual quad-cores with oodles of RAM, you don't multi-task when recording as this can cause severe latency problems, resulting in missing segments in your recording, jitter, and noise artifacts.

 If you're going to listen while you record, turn your bass all the way down on your receiver or amp, and keep the volume moderately low, or use headphones. Your turntable is prone to feedback, and while it may not be apparent while playing a record, you may notice slurred detail or booming in the bass and lower mid-range frequencies as a result of feedback when you start working with your recording in the software.

Sound Cards

 You may find that the sound card in your computer is satisfactory for your needs, but if you want overall better results, consider a good audiophile grade sound card.

 I use the M-Audio Delta Audiophile 2496, which sells for about 130.00. It has great specs, and wonderful recording and playback properties, plus it has standard RCA jacks for both in and out, that are scalable for both consumer and professional line levels.  The Vista drivers have just been released for this card, (yay!).

Clean Your Records!

You're going to commit your records to digital, so make sure you get the best performance possible! In addition to a good wet cleaning system, get a carbon fiber brush. Even a clean record will benefit from having a carbon fiber brush applied, as this will not only clean, but will remove static charges.

 A good stylus cleaning system should be acquired too. Clean your stylus after each side is played. Don't use your finger!

 Output to CD

Any CD burning software from Roxio, Nero, NTI, or media players like iTunes and Windows Media Player can burn an audio CD. Again, close all other programs before you burn your CD. If your software has a verification option, use it!

When burning from a program like Nero, Roxio, or other burning software, be sure to select your burn option as DAO (disc-at-once). The default for most of these programs is TAO (track-at-once), which actually pauses the burn for two seconds between tracks. This can create playback issues in some players, not to mention that a disc burned in TAO will not be seamless between tracks.

 Always use a premium blank stock for your CD. According to many manufacturers, a CD-R should have a shelf life of about 100 years, but most experts agree that 25 years seems likely. A cheap blank-stock can go bad within a year, even when properly stored. When you've spent hours recording, editing, and de-noising your recording, it's a chilling thought that your finished CD could just disappear in so short a time. Spend a little extra for good stock.

Tape to CD

Basically, you can connect your tape deck directly to your sound card. Or, if it's connected to the same stereo receiver or amp as your turntable (via the AUX input as opposed to the Tape input), you need only turn your selector to AUX , set your levels, and go!

These are the basics, and I hope you found this helpful. Cheers!