This guide covers topics on what to consider when purchasing a digital camera: Megapixels, Optical vs. Digital Zoom, Image Stabilization, Compact Digicams vs dSLRs etc.etc. If you find this guide helpful, please help others find it by clicking the "Yes" button in the bar below.

This guide covers the topics:

• Determining Camera Use

• Camera Features

• Types of Cameras

• Budgeting your purchase

DETERMINING CAMERA USE

The first question you have to ask yourself is what occasion(s) do you intend to use the camera for?
• Taking frequent spur of the moment snapshots?
• Printing out photographs for scrapbooks (4”x6”, 5”x7” or 8”x10” and if both, then in what ratio)?
• Taking pictures of people (indoors, outdoors, weddings, parties etc etc)?
• Taking pictures of action scenes/sports?
• Taking pictures of landscapes?

CAMERA FEATURES

• Megapixels
• Optical vs Digital Zoom
• Image Stabilization
• Shutter Speed
• ISO (Sensitivity)
• Auto Focus Assist Lamp (AF Assist)
• Video Mode

The one feature that gets the most attention is the highest available resolution on the camera, in other words how many megapixels it is. Megapixels alone do not determine the quality of the camera or the absolute quality of the pictures it will take.

The picture quality is determined by:
• The quality of the lens used. A higher quality also lens results into faster auto focusing (definitely true for dSLR), lower chromatic aberration, and higher quality pictures.

• The sensor within the camera (this is analogous to 35mm film which is exposed to the scene to capture the image, the sensor works in the same way, the sensor is what is exposed when the shutter opens to capture the image. The better the sensor, the better the quality of the image captured. The sensor is the most expensive part of the camera.

• Megapixels: The higher the megapixels, the greater the detail that can be captured within a picture. You can also print larger pictures with higher megapixel cameras. A 5 megapixel camera allows you to print great 8x10 photos. A photo taken with a higher resolution camera can be cropped and enlarged with less degradation to the image.

Megapixels (1 megapixel = 1 million light sensing dots):

 Megapixels refer to the number of pixels captured in a photo. If a camera is stated as 5 megapixels, that means that the highest achievable resolution is at 5 megapixels, but you can always reduce the resolution within the camera menu to reduce the image size depending on the purpose that image will serve (web publishing, emailing, auctions…).   Most cameras have several image quality settings to choose from. They are first broken down by resolution (e.g. 2048 x 1536, 1600 x 1200, 1024 x 768, etc) and then by quality (e.g. SHQ, HQ, SQ). 

A high megapixel digital camera is not needed if you only intend to email pictures, or view them on the monitor. One not need take pictures at the highest resolution even if you own a 10 megapixel camera. This will save a lot of space and time in processing the image after it’s taken.

If you’re considering printing pictures, then higher resolution/quality settings allow larger/better prints.

3-Megapixel Digital Cameras
• Ideal for casual photographers — e-mailing photos, posting photos on the Web, and printing small, everyday shots.
• Maximum recommended print size: 4" x 6"

4-Megapixel Digital Cameras
• Ideal for even better quality results. Near photo-lab quality 4" x 6" prints and great 5" x 7" and 6" x 9" photos.
• Maximum recommended print size: 8" x 10"

5-Megapixel Digital Cameras
• Ideal for enlargements and those who want near-35mm quality results.
• Maximum recommended print size: 8" x 10" and 11" x 14

6-Megapixel and Higher Digital Cameras
• Ideal for avid photographers and those wanting close-to-professional photo results.

Note: Some avid photographers can't even tell a difference between printed photos from some of the 7-, 8- and 9-megapixel digital cameras and a 35mm film SLR camera.

• Maximum recommended print size: 11" x 14" and more with wonderful image quality
A note about higher-megapixel digital cameras: More megapixels means larger image sizes, which demand more expensive memory cards and more storage space needed to store these images on your computer's hard drive.

Optical Zoom vs Digital Zoom

Optical zoom is the attainable zoom via the lens alone. Optical zoom is similar to what you'll find in a regular 35mm camera: When you push the button to zoom in or out, physical lens elements move inside the camera (in other words, the lens itself will move to zoom in or out).

Digital zoom kicks in once optical zoom is maxed out. It has no moving parts, and the camera interpolates the image to achieve the desired effect/zoom. The problem with digital zoom is that you lose quality when you do this -- your images will tend to be more "pixelated" than the same image taken with an optical zoom camera. The camera makes a guess about how the picture should look while zoomed in. Having optical and digital zoom on a camera isn't bad, but avoid cameras with only digital zoom.

Take a look at the following pictures to see how zoom works.
The first picture is taken without any zoom.

This second picture was taken at 12x optical zoom (Canon Powershot S2 with optical zoom maxed out).

This third picture is taken at 30x zoom (12x optical, and then 2.5x increase came due to digital). Moderate digital zoom doesn’t reduce image quality by a lot.

Here's a chance to score bonus points: Guess the name of the band.

IMAGE STABILIZATION

A handful of new cameras are coming out with this wonderful technology. IS steadies the image projected back into the camera to compensate for vibration (e.g. from handshake) which can be issue at long focal lengths (in other words, high zooms). IS is great to use in low light situations without a flash, but people have been expecting too much from IS and I would like to point a few things out on how it works and what not to expect.

Typically, image stabilization can help you take handheld shots almost two stops slower than with image stabilization off. For example if you would require a shutter speed of 1/500s to shoot a particular scene, you should be able to shoot at only 1/125s (4 times slower) with image stabilization. This is very useful when shooting moving subjects in low light conditions by panning and/or when using long focal lengths.

Human hands always have some jitter to them regardless of the fact whether you notice it or not. The camera is a very sensitive piece of electronic, and any sort of vibration will be picked up in a picture. The best way to see this is too zoom in as much as your camera will allow, focus on one object, and then try to hold your hands as steady as possible. You will see that you’ll have a hard time keeping the object in frame.

A common misconception, and thanks in part to the misleading ad by Panasonic regarding IS in their cameras, is that you can photograph people in motion without a flash in low light. It does NOT stop motions of your subjects (if you’re photographing people).  Your subjects will need to be still if you want to take shots of them without a flash, regardless of the fact IS is on or not.

SHUTTER SPEED (cameras with manual control also allow manual shutter speed adjustments)

The shutterspeed determines how long the film or sensor is exposed to light. Normally this is achieved by a mechanical shutter between the lens and the film or sensor which opens and closes for a time period determined by the shutterspeed. For instance, a shutter speed of 1/125s will expose the sensor for 1/125th of a second. Electronic shutters act in a similar way by switching on the light sensitive photodiodes of the sensor for as long as is required by the shutterspeed. Some digital cameras feature both electronic and mechanical shutters.

Shutterspeeds are expressed in fractions of seconds, typically as (approximate) multiples of 1/2, so that each higher shutterspeed halves the exposure by halving the exposure time: 1/2s, 1/4s, 1/8s, 1/15s, 1/30s, 1/60s, 1/125s, 1/250s, 1/500s, 1/1000s, 1/2000s, 1/4000s, 1/8000s, etc. Long exposure shutterspeeds are expressed in seconds, e.g. 8s, 4s, 2s, 1s.

The optimal shutterspeed depends on the situation. A useful rule of thumb is to shoot with a shutterspeed above 1/(focal length) to avoid blurring due to camera shake. Below that speed a tripod or image stabilization is needed. If you want to "freeze" action, e.g. in sports photography, you will typically need shutterspeeds of 1/250s or more. But not all action shots need high shutterspeeds. For instance, keeping a moving car in the center of the viewfinder by panning your camera at the same speed of the car allows for lower shutterspeeds and has the benefit of creating a background with a motion blur.

ISO (Sensitivity) (cameras with manual control also allow manual ISO adjustments)

Digital cameras have an ISO rating indicating their level of sensitivity to light. ISO 100 is the "normal" setting for most cameras, although some go as low as ISO 50. The sensitivities can be increased to 200, 400, 800, or even 3,200 on high-end digital SLRs. When increasing the sensitivity, the output of the sensor is amplified, so less light is needed. Unfortunately that also amplifies the undesired noise. Incidentally, this creates more grainy pictures, just like in conventional photography, but because of different reasons. It is similar to turning up the volume of a radio with poor reception. Doing so will not only amplify the (desired) music but also the (undesired) hiss and crackle or "noise". Improvements in sensor technology are steadily reducing the noise levels at higher ISOs, especially on higher-end cameras. And unlike conventional film cameras which require a change of film roll or the use of multiple bodies, digital cameras allow you to instantly and conveniently change the sensitivity depending on the circumstances.

AUTO FOCUS ASSIST LAMP (AF Assist Lamp)

Some manufacturers fit their cameras with a lamp (normally located beside or above the lens) which illuminates the subject you are focusing on when shooting in low light conditions. When light levels are low, the camera may not be able to decide on a focus distance. Some cameras won't take a picture, while others default to some preset focus distance (usually infinity). This can be a real problem. Low light is usually considered indoor lighting without very strong lighting.

This lamp assists the camera's focusing system where other cameras auto focus without the lamp will likely have failed. Cameras with an AF illuminator do a much better job in low light situations, and that's probably why you'll want one. If you do lots of outdoor or studio photography it's not a big deal, but for indoor shots, it's a worth to invest in a camera that has AF assist.

VIDEO MODE:

dSLR cameras do not have any video recording capabilities since people who invest in such a camera are mostly serious about and concerned with taking high quality pictures any way, and would have no interest in capturing video clips.

But on the other hand sleek and slim, standard and advanced digital cameras do have video modes. The most common modes of video recording available are 320x240 @ 15fps, 320x240 @ 30 fps, 640x480 @ 15fps, or 640x480 @ 30fps (high quality, comparable to a camcorder). From my experience I’ve always recorded short clips at every occasion I’ve taken my digital camera too. And in that case it’s advisable to invest in a 512MB memory card. At 640x480 @ 30fps you can record 4-6 minutes of high resolution video onto a 512MB card (the time varies due to the type of video file encoded).

CAMERA TYPES

The market is flooded with cameras of all types, from the sexy ultra slim, to the do-it-all advanced point and shoot and yours truly, the dSLR. The following pictures illustrate some of the basic features that are available in most cameras that fall within that category. The pictures DO NOT specify the features of the camera model that is displayed in the picture itself, but rather the size.

Standard Point and Shoot

Pros:
• Least expensive
• If you're on a budget but still want a camera that will take decent pictures, then the standard point and shoot is your camera of choice.
• Up to 6 Megapixels
• LCD Monitors between 1.5in.-2.5in.
• Most models use AA batteries

Cons:
• No AF Assist Lamp in most models
• Little or no manual control
• Smaller optical zoom (usually 3x)

Ultra Slim

Pros:
• Very compact. Can fit in your pocket. Ideal camera for casual use, or those looking for the most stylish camera. Comparable in features, photo quality and controls to the standard Point and shoot, you pay extra for the size and looks of this digicam.
• Mid-level zooms (3x-5x)
• Larger LCDs (2.5in.-3in.)
• 3.0-10.0 Megapixels

Cons:
• Do not come with advanced feature sets
• No AF assist lamp in most models.
• Little or no manual control

Advanced Point-and-Shoot

Pros:
• Mid to high megapixels (5.0-10.0 megapixels). Ideal camera for those who want some control over their shots and advanced features comparable to dSLR. If you don't mind a bulky camera, then older models of Advanced Point and Shoot are best buys since they can be had for $299-$399.
• Outstanding optical zoom (max is anywhere between 6x-12x)
• Advanced features (Shutter priority, Aperture priority, continuous shooting)
• Manual control
• High quality video recording
• Better picture quality than their compact brethren
• AF Assist Lamp
• Little or no Red Eye (in models with pop up flashes).
• 2in.-3in. LCDs

Cons:
• Bulky
• Priced in the $499-$599 range
• Fixed lens

dSLR

Pros:
• Best picture quality of all digital camera categories
• High megapixels (6.0-10.8 megapixels)
• Advanced focusing systems
• Advanced features
• Auto/Manual control
• Superior low light performance and lowest noise at higher ISOs when compared to cameras in other categories.
• Fastest focusing speeds (in other words, auto focus times are the shortest). Focusing is almost instant with dSLR cameras.
• Interchangeable lenses
• Hot shoe for external flash
• Can take uncompressed/lossless pictures (RAW and/or TIFF format) for future editing and high quality prints.

Cons:
• Expensive (Camera body alone usually costs $699, a good quality lens can cost an additional $120 at the very least).
• Bulky
• Lower zoom than Advanced Point-and-Shoot camera with default in-the-box lens. You can purchase a lens with comparable zoom (6x-12x or even higher) but they are expensive (normally between $300-$700). For premium quality zoom lenses, you are looking at $700-$1300.

BUDGETING YOUR PURCHASE AND ACCESSORIES TO CONSIDER

The next thing to consider is the budget for your camera. To really get the most out of your camera and make the most of your experience, remember to allocate at least $70-$100 of your budget for the following essential accessories:

1. Memory Card:

Depends on the make of the camera and the type of memory card supported. None of the cameras come bundled with a memory card (or enough internal memory) to be able to store more than 8-10 pictures. Since most digital cameras are now at least 5 megapixels and the prices of memory cards have come down drastically, I would highly recommend to invest in a 256MB memory card at the very least. That will allow you to store around 120-140 pictures onto a 256MB card from a 5MP at the highest resolution/quality setting.

2. Spare Batteries:

There is nothing worse than running out of juice in your batteries at a critical moment and you don’t have any spares to back you up. If you’re camera has a proprietary battery, the best place to purchase a second, at a great deal, would be ebay.com (which is why you’re here in the first place). Make sure that your batteries are always charged. IF your camera uses AA batteries, I can’t stress enough how inexpensive it is in the long run to invest in a set of rechargeable NiMH batteries (get those that are rated 2000+ mAH) and a recharger.

3. Camera Bag:

To be able to carry accessories and to protect your camera from the weather it is always wise to invest a nice camera bag. You don’t need to get an expensive branded one, any bag will do. Just get a feel for it, and notice the craftsman ship on it.

4. Lens cleaning cloth:

Camera lenses and LCD screens attract dust and are magnets for finger prints. You can purchase a cloth for anywhere between $2-$5 and micro fiber cloths don’t even require a solution as a gentle wipe will remove finger prints from your lens and the LCD screen. Never use tissue paper, toilet paper, alcohol, window cleaning solvents or water to clean your lens. Refer to the camera manual on how to keep the camera clean.

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