Designer Vintage Sewing Patterns
Why are some designers collected more than others? Why do some designers realize such high prices on eBay?
Pucci, Diane von Furstenberg, Ceil Chapman, Issey Miyake - why do these names on patterns always get such high prices - or do they?
Name Value Alone
It is not only the name value, but the style of the pattern, that gets the highest prices. A few examples:
- I had a Pucci pattern sell for 99 cents, even though it was a large Vogue pattern envelope. The design of the garment was just not spectacular enough.
- I had Diane von Furstenberg (DVF) patterns not even sell: some of her 1970's frumpy (obviously non-wrap) dress designs.
- I sold a Ceil Chapman dress pattern for 99 cents on eBay which was the starting price on a 7-day auction and included the words Ceil Chapman in the title. It was a gorgeous, unusual day dress but not the glamorous, evening dresses that sell for such high prices.
- Rudi Gernreich invented the topless bathing suit, but his sewing patterns do not get the high prices one would expect for such an innovative designer.
Name Value Plus Style
It is the designer name, plus a fabulous style, that garners the most money.
It is also the designer name, plus what the designer was famous for, that gets a high value, Ms. Von Furstenberg's wrap dress, for example.
Pucci was know for their fabulous vintage psychedelic patterns. Check out the vintage clothing listings on eBay for their fabulous prints. I have a couple of their vintage, silk scarves in my own collection. They are stunning! But the Pucci sewing patterns still generally sell for a lot of money. They had some great styles in the 1960's, but I think the cache is with the Pucci name, not the pattern design per se.
Vogue had some fabulous designers through the 1950's and 1960's (and they still do). Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent are fashion legends. If you are able to sew their designs, it saves you oodles of money compared to buying the same items for retail prices in the store. Their designs are also classic and timeless.
Modern Designers
However, it is not only the vintage designers that get the high prices on eBay. Relatively modern designers like Gunne Sax, Betsey Johnson and Issey Miyake are very popular. My personal favorite is Issey Miyake. I like the challenge of sewing one of the most difficult patterns possible and his are certainly one of them, and, of course, his designs complement every figure type. I also love to treat myself once in a while to an off-the-rack purchase (on sale). His designs are works of art and timeless. I always get compliments when I wear his designs. I also like the fact that several well-known Canadians, including the former Governor-General of Canada, Ms. Adrienne Clarkson and singer/songwriter Ms. Joni Mitchell, also wear his styles.
I was surprised to see a 1990's (maybe 1980's) Bellville Sassoon dress go for an exceedingly high price on eBay recently. I think it did so because two people desperately wanted it. Tip: always check the "highest price first" and "completed listings" at least once a week to see what is selling for the most money. (Confession: I check it on an almost daily basis - I know it is compulsive.) I made my wedding dress from a Vogue Bellville Sassoon pattern in the 1990's with ice pink silk imported from Switzerland. I travelled to France to get the lace for my bodice and hand-applied the sequins so that I would have a few sparkly ones, instead of the all-over sequins on fabric that I could find here. A Spring 2006 Vogue Patterns magazine had an article on Bellville Sassoon that was absolutely fascinating. I knew nothing about this designer until I read that article. I would highly recommend reading this magazine on a regular basis. I read it cover-to-cover.
I do not have as much time to sew now that I am listing so many patterns on eBay but I get almost as much satisfaction listing the most beautiful or unusual patterns knowing that a seamstress or collector will have these patterns in hand in a few days.
Who knows what designers will become collectible in the future in sewing patterns? I believe you can count on the Vogue designers and the more unusual or difficult patterns - I personally love the Vogue Koos van den Akker patterns (seldom seen on eBay). Hopefully, you can collect a designer now, at a reasonable price, that will be highly desirable in years to come. Have fun searching on eBay for your favorite patterns.
Cassandra

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