~~ Diamond Buying Guide ~~ 

Section One: Building Your Diamond Knowledge 

~Introduction 

Hello and welcome to the Diamond Buying Guide. If you purchased this guide than you are looking to buy a diamond but are unsure of what options are available to you or even what to look for. You have made a smart move with the purchase of this guide. EBay is a great place to get a good value diamond. However, there are many more things to consider when purchasing a diamond that you only see a picture of before you buy. If you have no knowledge of diamonds than you will appreciate this guide even more. Not all diamonds are the same and it is imperative that you learn the differences before your purchase to make it an enjoyable one. General knowledge of diamonds is absolutely necessary no matter what source you will obtain your diamond from. Aside from protecting you, knowledge of diamonds will give you a greater appreciation of your unique diamond after you make your buy it. Simply being informed will protect you from making a poor purchase decision. This is where we shall begin the first section, Building Your Diamond Knowledge, of the guide.

~The Four C's

What makes one diamond more valuable than another? A common misconception is that the price of a diamond is directly equivalent its carat size. This obviously is not true as you can see with the two examples above and the wide ranges of prices you may have seen on the market. The answer to this question can be found with the four Cs, or Carat, Color, Clarity, and Cut. All four are equally important and vital to obtaining the best value diamond. When searching for quality diamond it is of utmost importance to get a balance between these four Cs. In other words, do not use your set budget to purchase the largest carat diamond you can find. You will understand this more clearly after we cover the four Cs in detail. While the four Cs are a great and most common tool in determining a diamonds value, there is one other thing to consider. It is equally important to the four Cs but simply just does not start with a C. It is transparency and we will cover it also.

~Carat Weight

Most of us refer carat to the overall size of a diamond, however, carats are actually measured by weight. A diamond can be cut to appear larger but actually contain the same carat weight of the smaller sized diamond. When mounted, it is important to note that a two carat diamond may not look twice as big as a one carat. One carat is equivalent to 200 milligrams. A 2 carat diamond is equal in weight to 400 milligrams, double the weight of a single carat yet the price does not double. Rarity is the determining factor of the value on a diamond. The price rises exponentially with each carat simply because the larger diamonds are harder to find. 

~Color

A diamonds color is graded using the alphabet on a scale from D to Z. D is the most colorless and most valuable. Z is on the other end of the scale and contains the most color making it the least valuable. Diamonds act as prisms and divide light creating the sparkling effect or fire. Fire is the colorful flashes you see when a colorless diamond is moved. The lower the grade or more colorless the diamond, the more colorful the fire will appear. The diamond will appear a light yellowish color the closer it comes to Z on the scale. Brown and gray diamonds are graded on the same scale with a slight difference. Brown diamonds graded with the letter K and higher are also accompanied with the broad grade. For example a brown diamond with the letter grade of N will be N-Very Light brown. Gray diamonds above J are rated without the Letter grade. An N graded gray diamond would simply be Very Light gray. All diamonds with colors other than these three are considered fancy colored. Fancy colored diamonds come in wide ranges in color and fall outside of this scale. They are usually referred to as Z+. Natural fancy colored diamonds are rare and therefore much more valuable. Artificially colored diamonds are also available with a significant decrease in value over natural colored stones. There are two processes in which a diamond may be colored. They are irradiation and high-pressure high temperature treatments. The irradiation process results in green, red, blue and even black diamonds. The HPHT process can turn brown stones into near colorless or into a variety of colors just as irradiation. As I mentioned before, naturally colored diamonds are extremely rare and expensive. There could easily be a $100,000 price difference between a natural and unnaturally colored diamond. Color treated diamonds are a likely choice if you are looking for a fancy color.

 

~Clarity Grade

Clarity refers to the number, location, and size of inclusions found inside diamonds. The diamonds with the best clarity or least amount of defects are the most valuable ones. A diamonds clarity is also measured on a scale. Diamonds can range from flawless to included which are significantly lowered in value. Those graded as included contain defects visible to the naked eye. This section is the best one to lower the price of a diamond. A diamond with slight inclusions may be purchased at an excellent value. Identical diamonds in appearance both with SI2 clarity grades may look similar but their inclusions will vary. One may have more obvious inclusions while the other has more concealed ones and are still both in the same price range. In your diamond search you can settle for a lower grade clarity diamond while still presenting the appearance of a higher grade by simply hiding blemishes during mounting. Also remember that any inclusions in the middle or top of the diamond will affect the light dispersion and it brilliance. Flawless and internally flawless diamonds are extremely rare and add significant value.

-Flawless - FL

No internal or external flaws. Flawless diamonds are extremely rare and are priced accordingly.

-Internally Flawless - IF

No internal flaws, and slight insignificant external blemishes that can be polished away. Also rare to spot.

-Very Very Slightly Included - VVS1 & VVS2

Inclusions extremely difficult to see under 10X magnification. Not common to find many in a retail store.

-Very Slightly Included - VS1 & VS2

Inclusions very difficult to see under 10Xmagnification. More common in retail stores.

-Slightly Included - SI1 & SI2

Inclusions easier to see under 10X magnification (SI1) and might be faintly visible to the naked eye (SI2).

- Included - I1, I2, & I3

Inclusions that are obvious under 10X visible to the naked eye.

SI 2 Grade Diamond 7x                                  VS1 Diamond

While these grades offer a general idea of the stones clarity you should not base you purchase decision primarily on it. Diamonds both rated SI2 may be graded identically but may have a significant difference in value and appearance. You need to examine the stone and judge the grade for yourself. The grade is directly effected by the number and positions of inclusions. To accurately judge a diamonds clarity grade you need knowledge of the different types of inclusions. We will develop you clarity grading skills later in the diamond inclusions section. There are a few basic tips to remember when searching for the best diamond for your money. Look for inclusions towards the corners where they can be hidden and have minimal effect on light dispersion. You can get away with buying a lower clarity grade small carat diamond easier than you could with a larger weight. Smaller carat diamonds hide inclusions better with smaller facets. If you are buying on a lower budget look for slightly included diamonds. While the grade appears to be at the low end of the scale, it is still a good quality diamond. Inclusions in an I1 graded smaller carat diamond are very difficult to spot with the unaided eye. The clarity grade is a good adjustment to make to lower the overall cost of a diamond.

~Diamond Cut

While the other three Cs were normal results of nature, cut is directly attributed to the skill of the cutter. They have the ability to transform a rough diamond into a beautiful gem. The cut directly affects a diamonds brilliance. An ideally cut diamond receives light from the top, refracts it off its sides, and then sends it back through the top in a rainbow of color. The refracted light creates the fire effect that makes the diamonds sparkle. A diamond cut to deep or shallow will loose much of that light out of its side decreasing its value and sparkle. A diamond can be formed into many different shapes though round shapes reflect light better than fancy shapes. Some popular fancy shapes include heart, emerald, and princess. There are three things to consider when looking at the cut of a diamond, all of which will affect the brilliance and value. The cut depth we already cover above. The cut grade describes the patterns, outline, and shape of a diamond. This measures how skillfully the cutter did his job. Misalignment, misshapen facets, unbalanced shapes are all results of a poor cut job and decrease the stone's brilliance. The polish is the last aspect to look at. A poor polish and rough facets also diminish the sparkle, although being easier to fix than the others.

Perfectly Cut Diamond

~ Anatomy of a Diamond

A diamond has two major parts and one more that unites the two. The girdle is in between the crown , which is the top most section, and the pavilion located on the bottom part. The diagram on the previous page is an example of a round brilliant cut diamond. This is the most common but certainly not the only cut available on the market. The second most popular, and personally my favorite, is the princess cut. There are a total of 58 facets on a round brilliant cut diamonds. A great deal of skill and patience is put into the cutting of a single diamond. The ending result, however, is not always a perfectly proportioned diamond. A diamonds cut can be graded Ideal, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor. This grade reflects only a diamonds external proportions and symmetry. The girdle should also be relatively thin. There are two types of girdles. One is a faceted and the other is bruted which is smother.

~ Diamond Inclusions

The most common imperfections found in diamonds are clouds, cracks, and crystals. Clouds are often not visible to the naked eye. The diamonds that have serious problems with this unfortunate trait appear white and have a loss in brilliance. A cloud is simply a grouping of many extremely tiny inclusions that are too small and too close together to distinguish from one another. Most clouds do not significantly impact a diamond's clarity grade and are found in low as well as high clarity grades. Cracks are exactly what the word suggests, fractures inside the stone. Diamonds with small cracks may still be able to obtain VS grade and are very common. Grading reports usually refer to cracks as feathers. Crystals are minerals inside the diamond. There are many different types of crystal inclusions but the most common is another diamond which began to form inside. The crystals observable under 10 x magnifications as small spots are referred to as pinpoints. These blemishes are formed naturally in the creation process. They are found in all rough diamonds, some are just lucky enough to contain less than others. These fortunate ones are rare and therefore more valuable. The inclusions that do not occur naturally are usually scratches and abraded edges. These can easily be polished away to restore the stone to its original beauty.

A diamond with clouds and cracks

A crystal in a diamonds

~ The Fifth C: Certification

The fifth C is perhaps just as important as the other four especially when you are making your purchase on eBay or the internet. Certificates are official documents issued by gemological labs that include specific information about a single diamond. Grading reports, as they are more commonly referred to, will always include the four Cs at minimum. Other information may include its quality, validation that a diamond is organic and unique features that can distinguish it from other diamonds. The inclusions found in the clarity analysis can be recorded for location, size, and type. For even further proof that the certified document is in fact for the particular diamond, some labs may include the serial number found on laser inscribed diamonds. Certification is great evidence that the diamond you are purchasing is what it is presented to be. It, however, is not an appraisal and the value of a diamond will not be found on a grading report. It is strictly a lab report and will only contain information about the diamonds characteristics. There are two major diamond grading labs and many other smaller ones. The most common lab that provides the most accurate, trustworthy information is the Gemological Institute of America or the GIA. The GIA examines diamonds a minimum of four times each with a different trained and experienced professional. Their unbiased and impartial reports are due largely in part that they are not affiliated with any retailer or manufacturer. They are trusted with the worlds most famous diamonds and can surly be trusted with yours. A GIA report will significantly increase the price of an auction on eBay. The added cost comes with the security and peace of mind that you are receiving the diamond you are paying for.  

~ Determining a Good Cut

The image below is the one you already saw in the diamond cut section earlier in the guide. It shows an ideal cut that receives light and sends it back through the top. A diamond should as closely resemble the outline of the pictured diamond as possible. This is a great general rule of thumb when determining a diamonds cut but it is not very exact and it may be difficult to spot slight irregularities with your eye. Grading reports may include diamond proportion information as a percent. This percentage relates the stones depth in comparison to its width. There are three major percent calculations you may want to learn. Pavilion depth percentage measures the height of the pavilion compared to the diameter of the gridle. The total depth percentage simply measures the total diamond height and compares it to the gridle. The table width as compared to the crown is the most important to you. The other two have acceptable ranges and when a diamond falls outside that range you will begin to see the fisheye effect, which is explained later in this section. Table width however will directly effect the stone fire and brilliance. Smaller tables tend to highlight fire while larger tables give a more brilliant appearance. Lets take a look at how to calculate some of these percentages in case if you need to examine a diamond that is not accompanied with report. They are not very necessary to know but are good to read over. I have found that the more knowledge I have about diamonds the more I appreciate their true value.

Pavilion depth percentage, as we already mentioned, is simply the pavilion depth compared to the diamond width. The resulting percentage is a very important number to know if you are buying online or from another source where you will not be able to examine the diamond before purchase. The acceptable range for the pavilion depth is 41% to 47%. You should try to get your diamonds as close to 43% as possible. When the pavilion falls below 41% the unattractive fisheye effect begins to appear. A fisheye will appear as white ring in the center of the stone. It is the direct result of a shallow pavilion and will have a significant negative impact on the stones value. When the depth percentage goes above 47% the diamond will begin to appear dark in the center. 43% should be considered the ideal depth. An acceptable range for the total depth percentage is about 56% to 64%. This calculation will prove to be not useful for online buyers. It does give you an idea of weather or not the overall proportions are good, but it does not take into account crown and pavilion depths. If a crown is very deep and a pavilion shallow, the total depth percentages could still quite possibly fall into an acceptable ranges. If you are buying online you need to know the cut quality or the pavilion depth percentage to determine if it is a diamond that will have good light refraction. A diamond table size will have a direct effect on a diamonds brilliance and fire. These two terms are usually misconcepted as being the same thing. There is a difference between the two. Fire is the is formed by a very interesting process. A table width of 55% will have a completely different crown structure than one with a 64% width. A diamond with a 54% table size will have a thicker crown and the facets less steep creating the perfect conditions for the fire effect. The less steep angle of the bezel and star facets will allow entering light to more easily break into a spectrum of colors. The result, also known as dispersion, is the colorful flashes. When the table is larger the brilliance will be more prominent. Brilliance is the brightness which appears inside the stone as a result of light reflection.

 

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