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Common Electrical Failure from Shoddy Material & Workma

by: otto5050( 157Feedback score is 100 to 499) Top 10000 Reviewer
6 out of 6 people found this guide helpful.


COMMON ELECTRICAL FAILURE FROM SHODDY
                                       MATERIAL-AND-WORKMANSHIP

The culprit of the most common electrical failure in a residence is two-fold--shoddy devices and the way that they're installed. The devices of which I'm referring are the cheap, "residential-grade"-receptacles and-wall switches that you can buy from home centers for 29 cents. Cheap receptacles, with their "quick-wire" provision, compromise the integrity of the branch circuit to which they're installed. This can often be noticed by intermittent dimming of lights about the home until ultimate failure--an electrical outage in part of the home.

Quick-wiring saves labor-time thus saving builders money. The trouble is that this faster wiring method doesn't provide a good, lasting electrical connection, and should not be permitted by the local governing body. Some governments, such as Florida's, don't permit the receptacle to be a link in the circuit, thereby leaving the receptacle unable to cause failure at other outlets.

When using high-current-draw appliances, such as hair dryers and vacuum cleaners, the inadequate springed contacts of the receptacle's quick-wire provision  heat up from electrical resistance and become oxidized. This effect becomes worse with every use of  high-current-draw appliance as the re-heating further oxidizes the brass springed type quick-wire contacts. This process fosters yet more electrical resistance until the compromised circuit employing the inferior receptacles fails completely.

The presence of these quick-wired receptacles in a branch circuit not only cause trouble at each outlet location, they also cause an accumulated trouble relative to the number of receptacles in the circuit. From the origin (load center or main panel) to the end of the branch circuit, the power available at each outlet becomes progressively weaker and more liable to failure as each receptacle links the circuit. So, the farther down the line from the supply-origin an outlet is used to connect an appliance, the greater the voltage and "ampacity" loss is at that outlet.


After a few years, the cheap, residential-grade receptacles become weak in a second way, resulting in poor contact-with-plug-blade strength. Not only is this a nuisance in letting your vacuum cleaner plug fall out--similarly to the back-wire problem--it also promotes electrical resistance and heat build-up.

If a motorized appliance, such as a refrigerator, vacuum cleaner or clothes washer is plugged into this  faulty circuit, the electrical resistance can cause motor over-heating, shortening the motor's life. Electrical resistance causes voltage loss, and electric motors draw more current (amperage), making them run hotter, when deprived of full voltage.

The high-quality, spec- grade receptacles haven't the quick-wire provision. To install these, the wires must be connected to screw or clamp terminals--a satisfactory method as long as the screws are well tightened. Installed correctly--wires connected tightly--these quality devices (switches and receptacles) will likely last a century. Furthermore, unlike cheap receptacles, the spec.-grade receptacle bodies are made of nylon--they won't break apart when bumped with furniture.

You'll notice more physical resistance when inserting a plug; this is normal for the higher-grade receptacles. This is because of the plug blades being tightly held so as not to cause electrical resistance at the receptacle-plug connection. To overcome the physical resistance, just push harder when plugging into these receptacles. Remember to mind the polarity of the plug relative to that of the receptacle--wider blade to wider slot. The receptacle won't permit incorrect insertion/polarity of the modern, polarized plugs.

Nearly all homes (houses and some apartments) built after ca. 1970, could benefit from complete replacement of their residential-grade receptacles. Replacement of the duplex receptacles with correctly wired-in spec.-grade units is the remedy. By the way, there's no need for the replacement of whole outlets, just the receptacles. Wall switches are not as important to replace as they don't cause as much trouble as do the cheap receptacles.

If you are remodeling-or-building a residence, make sure that you specify the installation of specification-grade receptacles-and-switches. It is well worth the small, added cost, in convenience and in reduction of future repairs. If building a commercial or an industrial structure, the concern is almost moot, as building codes generally require the use of specification-grade devices in these non-residential applications.

Richard S. Otto
17 July 2005


Guide ID: 10000000004644468Guide created: 11/25/07 (updated 02/05/09)

 
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