Collecting WWII Shoulder Patches - Fake or Real?

At any given time, Ebay sellers list nearly 5,000 weekly auctions advertising WWII unit patches (shoulder sleeve insignia - SSI) for sale.  This is a wonderful thing- the seasoned collector can search the auctions, look for that rare item, and finally fill a gap in his collection. But what happens if you are just starting out and truly want to "get into" World War II patches as a hobby?  As new collectors decide that shoulder patches may be the area they would like to focus their attentions on, many are duped into buying modern reproductions and outright fakes with their hard earned money.  The small article below is meant to help the beginning or novice patch collector make good decisions on patches offered for auction.

Qualities of an Embroidered World War II Patch - Shoulder Sleeve Insignia (SSI)

The Cut Edge - WWII patches will most always have a cut edge to them as contrasted to a merrowed edge (used after the war). The practice of embroidering a patch on fabric and then cutting it from the master sheet was the primary production process during WWII.  Merrowed patches (patches with clean, tightly threaded edges) were not created and employed in the industry until well after the war.  As a collector, check the edge first.

                               The Cut Edge (WWII Era AAF Patch)                The Merrowed Edge (Vietnam Era 3rd Armored)

The "Snowy Back" - Due to the embroidery technique employed during WWII, the patches of the period have a very unique "look" to them known as the "snowy" back.  Most WWII patches will vary in the degree of white "snow" showing on their reverses, but it will show up. Earlier WWII patches also employed a technique creating "green back" patches.  These patches are very disctinctive in that the reverse embroidering creates a very dark green appearance mixed with the "snow".  Patches with merrowed strips or glue application backs are most certainly POST WAR and are not true WWII examples.  This is why some sellers only show you the fronts of their patches.  They don't want the reverses to give away the non-authentic nature of their product.

  WWII Patches - Notice degrees of "Snow"     A Vietnam Era Merrowed Taper Strip      The 1960s - Present Glued Back

Cotton vs. Manmade - WWII patches were primarily composed of cotton (aka a natural fiber).  By simply using a $9.00 UV light, a collector can tell if the patch will "glow" under UV light.  In 99% of all cases, the cotton WWII cut edge patch will not glow. If it does register a strong glow, it is most likely a post war copy made with synthetic threads.  If you are going to collect WWII patches, invest in the UV light - it will be one of your most important tools.  Please note that some patches, if washed in detergents over a long period of time, will give off a slight UV trace, but nothing like the severity of a modern production piece- these light up like glowsticks.

Trusting the Dealer - hey, guess what...not every dealer is honest.  When I first started collecting I was taken to the bank on a few items.  Now that I've had the experience, perhaps I can share it here.  First off, always ask the seller for a reverse photo of the patch they are selling.  If they refuse, they are hiding something, go elsewhere.  Secondly, stay away from sellers who have private feedback or who offer only private auctions.  These folks say they are trying to protect everyone's identity, but what they are really doing is keeping seasoned veterans from warning other Ebay members about the fakes they are selling.  Finally, use your common sense.  If a $100 patch is going for $12.00 there is a reason - you get what you pay for.  In the end, if you buy from a seller you trust, you are most definitely "good to go".

To say the least, this is a very exciting branch of the militaria hobby, not just because there are so many patches and variations to collect, but because the collector can link up with some very knowledeable and friendly folks. If you do your research and steer away from those who would look to take advantage of you by selling fakes, your enjoyment of the hobby should stay strong. Good luck collecting and have fun!

- Spearhead Militaria