Collecting W. Britains Toy Soldiers - Recommended Reference Books and their Importance

W. Britains Limited initiated hollowcast toy soldiers in 1893, and although ceasing production in 1966, their products have fascinated “young boys”, regardless of age ever since. They are one of the principal manufacturers collected today both because of relative availability, the fact that all sets were numbered, and that the company regularly published comprehensive illustrated catalogs.  I have been collecting W. Britains toy soldiers since 1947 (age 11), and have been able to retain all the sets, accessories, and most importantly their boxes. Check the number of empty Britains boxes currently being offered on e-Bay; the reason, most sets double in value if they are complete with their original box. It has been somewhat of a bittersweet blessing in that as a young teen-ager I would embellish and/or touch-up some of the sets. I have even been guilty of that offense, on albeit very limited occasion, as an adult; SHAME. That having been said, pales in comparison to some of the offerings, and their descriptions, presented on e-Bay in recent years, with a significant lack of candor (intentional or unintentional) just in this last year alone. This is truly unfortunate, as this can be both a fascinating and rewarding hobby. Conversely with a reasonable knowledge base and extensive reference library, I have been able to make some very nice acquisitions at fair prices. Careful observation of photography provided, the offerer's feedback file, all available reference materials, and clarification questions to the seller, on all e-Bay offerings, are most strongly advised.  

It is not my intent to repeat all of the excellent and detailed information already on line and contained in the guide, Britains Toy Solders – Basic Identification Hints! by nathan2690, which I recommend viewers review along with this guide. I would, however, like to augment that information by reiterating the importance of reference documents; specifically those containing good close-up color photography. 

If you are seriously intending to build a collection of  toy soldiers, be they W. Britains, Mignot, Elastolin, other vintage manufacturers, or of what have now been called “New Toy Soldiers”, a reference library is an absolute necessity. This library need not be extensive, or for that matter expensive, but it must be accurate and complete within its defined scope. There is a group of books which immediately come to mind:
• Regiments of all Nations, Revised Edition, Britains Ltd. Lead Soldiers 1946-66, J.Wallis, Waverly Press, Baltimore, Md, 1981, ISBN 0-9605950-0-7
• Armies of the World, Britains Ltd. Lead Soldiers 1925-1941, J.Wallis, United Book Press, 1993, ISBN 0-9605950-2-3
• Toy Soldiers (Phillips Collectors Guides) including price guide, J. Opie, Dunestyle Publishing Ltd and Boxtree Ltd., 1989, ISBN 1-85283-249-5
• The Collector’s Guide to New Toy Soldiers, Metal figures from 1973 to the present, S. Asquith, Introduction by James Opie, Argus Press, 1991, ISBN 1-85486-051-8
• The collector's all-colour guide to Toy Soldiers, A. Rose, Salamander Books Ltd., London, 1985, ISBN 0-86101-149-X (Excellent photography, near actual size, color images)
• Collectors Guide to Britains Model Soldiers, J. Ruddle, Argus Books Ltd., 1980, ISBN 0-85242-568-6
• British Toy Soldiers 1893 to the present, An Illustrated Reference Guide for Collectors, with 1985/86 Price Guide, J. Opie, Arms and Armour Press Ltd., 1985, ISBN 0-85368-720-X
• Collecting Toy Soldiers (with price guide), J. Opie, Wm. Collins Sons & Co., 1987, ISBN 0-00-412276-3
• Collecting Old Toy Soldiers, I. McKenzie, B.T. Batsford, Ltd., London, 1975, ISBN 0-7134-3036-2
This last book, available for about $15.00 from Amazon.com., is an excellent introduction and overview. There are additional significant tomes on the subject, which are much more detailed and expensive, and each of the books listed have extensive bibliographies. Joe Wallis and James Opie are considered by most to be pre-eminent authorities in the field. There is one additional book which is akin to a “Field Guide"(without photos), if you can find it; OPIE’S Pocket Price Guide to BRITAINS Hollowcast Toy Soldiers, J. Opie, New Cavendish Books, 1994, ISBN 1-872727-82-4. The particular value of this little book is James Opie’s rarity indices, ranking sets by span of manufacture, variations, and with and without their box. All of this information has been developed with a professionalism akin to an archeologist, over a span of decades. A spot check of Amazon.com shows all these books, accept the pocket guide, available as of 2 October 2007. Joe Wallis’ second book, Armies of the World, has, however, become expensive at $113.00 per copy (see below for availability of this book at $40.00).



Figure 1 - As an initial reference acquisition The collector's All colour guide to Toy Soldiers by Andrew Rose would be an excellent investment, and the book is currently still available on Amazon.com. To the more serious collector Joe Wallis' two books, Regiments of all Nations, and Armies of the World, are definitive texts, however, both are limited to black and white imagery.

The prices cited in the above books are badly out of date, as the sets have continued their steady increase in value started at the end of production in 1966. However, Vectis Auctions Ltd. has had extensive auctions in very recent years which provide a reasonable estimate of current valuations. Their future, as well as, past auctions (with prices realized) can be found at their excellent web site: http://www.vectis.co.uk/index.php3. It would appear that there has been a slight, but perceptible decrease in prices in recent years, however over the long term I’m sure that steady appreciation will continue to occur. This is particularly true with both rare, as well as popular sets, especially the bands. For example a correct original Britains box and insert tie card for Set No. 1720 The Mounted Band of the Royal Scots Greys (Second Dragoon Guards) just sold (October 2007) on e-Bay for $112.00. That's just the box! For someone who has the un-boxed set, obtaining an original box increases the rarity index from 35 to 45 on James Opie's scale (which incidentally is logarithmic), making the set both twice as rare and twice as expensive.



Figure 2 - Britains Set No. 1720 Mounted Band of the Royal Scots Greys (2nd Dragoons), with Kettle Drummer, shown in correct composition with original box and tie card. This famous regiment commemorated by its charge with the 92nd Gordon Highlanders against Napoleon's Army at Waterloo (1815), is one of fewer and fewer Scottish regiments of the British Army remaining on active service. As an armoured regiment, in Challenger I and II Main Battle Tanks, it fought with distinction in the Gulf War (Operation Granby) 1991, and more recently in Iraq. On full dress parade the kettle drummer still wears the unique white bearskin, originally presented by its then Colonel-in Chief, Czar Nicolas II of Russia (courtesy of Geoff Duin's web site). It's recommended that the viewer may want to download this and other figures on this page as jpgs, in order that details can be better observed.

There is also an excellent current web site maintained by Geoff Duin; http://www.realtoysoldiers.com, which contains an extensive variety of photographs of W. Britains sets. In addition to figures, the site includes extensive coverage of artillery, wagons and vehicles. Close-up images provide details which can be very helpful in comparing with offerings up for auction on e-Bay. The sets depicted are in excellent to near mint condition, correct composition, and in several instances are shown tied in their original boxes. A great and convenient source of information. For a permanent reference source, immediately available on your computer, consider downloading the images from this site, as well as others, in a file. Geoff also offers an extensive discussion of the use of UV, or black light, as a means of identifying retouching, also citing the limitations of this method.



Figure 3 - Britains Set No. 2087 Fifth Royal Inniskilling Dragoon Guards, Dismounted at attention, drawn swords, with Officer. This is one of several sets in No. 1 Dress issued to commemorate the  Coronation of  Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 (courtesy of Geoff Duin's web site).



Figure 4 - Britains Set No. 2153 (successor to Set No. 1291, replacing metal drums with plastic) Band of the Royal Marines, A small band which was available from 1946 - 1955, and a perennial favorite.  All Britains bands are eagerly sought by today's collectors (courtesy of Geoff Duin's web site).



Figure 5 - Britains Set No. 1876 Bren Gun Carrier and Crew, a famous British armoured vehicle of World War II, was excellently executed in this model (courtesy of Geoff Duin's web site).



Figure 6 - Britains Set No. 2112 Full Band of the United States Marine Corps, Summer Dress, depicts this famous band as they appear in their popular summer concerts at U.S. Marine Headquarters, Eighth and I Streets, Washington, D.C. A now rare and much sought after set, particularly in this condition, boxed or unboxed (courtesy of Geoff Duin's web site).



Figure 7 - Britains Set No. 1264 4.7 Inch Naval Gun (mounted for field operations), in its original version this famous gun was introduced at the time of the Boer War (1899 - 1902), and remained in production as a favorite through 1966 and beyond. Britains produced a broad variety of artillery pieces, which while very popular, resulted in the demise of a lot of young boy's sets of toy soldiers.



Figure 8 - Britains Set No. 1266 18 Inch Heavy Howitzer, on Tractor Wheels, Breech loading, with full elevating and firing mechanism, came with range tables facilitating very accurate fire of a lead projectile equivalent in size and weight to the bullet from a .45 cal. semi-automatic pistol cartridge or .577/.450 cal. Martini-Henry rifle cartridge. The author has personal knowledge of this piece's ability to wrought havoc on Lincoln Log fortifications at up to 15 feet in range.

The most important criteria when considering the sets being offered on e-Bay auctions are 1) clarity of the photography presented on e-Bay, 2) presence of a genuine, correct box and tie card, as applicable, 3) complete set (correct number of figures), 4) matching colors in all figures (check green in bases, flesh color in faces, color in tunics and pants, metallic brown in rifles, and browns in horses), 5) correct composition of the set (particularly important in the case of bands and large display sets), 6) condition (both of figures and the box, if applicable), and 7) rarity, all weighed against recent prices for the same set in comparable condition. As an example, recently offered on e-Bay was a relatively scarce set of W. Britains, Set No. 2101, United States Marine Corps Color Guard with the National Standard and Marine Corps Flag (4 figures). Even unboxed, which this set was, it has a rarity index of 42. The figures and the flags are in excellent condition. Britains apparently produced color parties with  the flag staffs both fixed and unfixed. I was under the mistaken impression that they were always unfixed. Though not 100% infallible (due to Britains change in paint formulae around 1960) it would still be worth while to check the fixed staff connection with a black light in order to insure originality.



Figure 9 - Two examples of Set No. 2101 US Marine Corps Color Guard. The set on the left shows the sometimes incorrectly painted flag (done by Britains), but also the flag staffs as detachable. The set on the right shows the Marine's standard in correct colors, and in this case the flag staffs permanently fixed to the figures .

One important aspect of collecting is the care and maintenance of your collection, particularly as it grows and represents a significant investment in time and resources. One key subject in the preservation of toy soldiers is the prevention of what is popularly defined as “lead rot”, but in fact is a form of electrolysis. First indication of this condition is the appearance of a white powder-like substance (lead carbonate) on the figure, analogous to corrosion on battery terminals, but on a very fine scale. Unfortunately lead rot seems to be “contagious”, and once started can rapidly spread, so immediate corrective action is advised. The best thing to do is to remove the affected figure from others, and carefully brush the total surface with a fine sable brush. Then, depending on whether the painted surface is a gloss or matte finish, use a corresponding high-grade quick dry hobby paint topcoat over the entire surface. This can be carefully disbursed from a spray can, or applied with a fine sable brush. Don’t forget the underside of the base. On most toy soldiers, and on all Britains this surface is bare lead/tin alloy. In advanced states a more complicated treatment is the use of ion-exchange resin, which is commercially available. After brushing off the powder from the surface, seal the unaffected areas with soluble nylon or a 10 percent PVA/IMS solution. The figure is then laid between layers of resin and submerged in distilled water. As the water is then boiled it converts the carbonate back to metal. The entire figure is coated with the previously described topcoat.  There are two environments, which are known to cause this occurrence. The first is a high ambient humidity, most likely to occur near a large body of water, i.e. ocean, lake, etc. The other potential cause is storage in oak display cabinets. Oak secretes tannic acid which will attack the lead. Obviously the combination of the two conditions can exacerbate the occurrence. A trade-off occurs between providing adequate ventilation for your collection, and the accumulation of dust. I would personally opt towards good ventilation, and rationalize the dust as the “sands of time” scaled down. A dehumidifier can well prove to be a sound investment.

 I have been diligently searching my reference library for the following discussion by James Opie of price guidelines for W. Britains toy soldiers. “Here is an example of the sort of difference made to prices by the condition of an item. Plate 15 figure 10 is a very rare Britains ‘plug shouldered’ Scots Grey. A mint boxed set of six of these in original paint might well be worth £5,000. If one were broken, the price would be about £3,500. If the box were in poor condition, £3,000. If in good condition, but without box, £2,500. If both the box and the figures were in poor condition, £1,000. The single figure in excellent condition without a box is worth about £150. If the tail is missing, £30. If the paintwork were poor, £25. If repainted (as shown in Plate 15) £20. If the plug arm were missing, £10. While there is nearly always a residual value in any toy soldier, as can be seen from the above, the mint boxed price may well be a very different affair from the poor condition or damaged piece, and ascertaining the condition is essential before any negotiation can take place.” Prophetic words particularly for the new collector. (Quoted with acknowledgement to James Opie.) It’s noted that the above prices were in the 1985-1986 time frame, and should only be considered for comparative differences. The differences for more common sets being somewhat less.

I was recently asked what would be the safest and best way to clean a long term accumulation of cigarette smoke and tar from toy soldiers. Not being a smoker I had to do a little research. My recommendation is to use a dilute solution of ammonia and glycol (using distilled water; 10 parts water to 1 part ammonia and 1 part glycol) applied with a series of small cotton swabs. You can also use a small sable brush. Depending on the number of figures involved you may want to consider carefully submerging them in the solution in a deep baking pan lined with a light dish towel, and then blow drying with a hair dryer on low or no heat setting. With the latter method my only concern would be possibly getting water inside the hollow cast figures. If anyone else has had direct experience in this area I would certainly appreciate hearing from you. Hope this advise is helpful.

An extremely valuable additional resource for W. Britains collectors is London Bridge Collector’s Toys, Ltd. This company offers an extensive inventory of replacement parts for Britains Toy Soldiers, as well as a full range of Humbrol paints (including limited guidance in recreating Britains colors). Their web site is: http://www.londonbridgetoys.com. They also have Joe Wallis’s second book, “Armies of the World”, available in soft cover for $40.00 USD, a true bargain.

Collecting Imperatives
The Do’s and Don’ts
(Acknowledgment to James Opie)

Do:                   
1. Do buy what you like the look of, it will always give you enjoyment, and what you enjoy will be most likely to please others.
2. Do travel to collect examples. Toy soldiers can be more expensive in the country of origin, but they will also be much more plentiful. Attending auctions in person enables the lots to be inspected and the purchases to be taken home safely.
3. Do give figures room to breath. A 54mm size infantryman will have a base approximately 1 sq cm to 2 sq cm, and ten figures will be able to be lined up within 20cm (8 in.). At least a 10 cm (4 in) gap should be left between this and the next subject.
4. Do keep original boxes which will enhance the value by up to 100 per cent.
5. Do make sure that any cupboards or cabinets have sufficient ventilation. Damp conditions in sealed enclosures cause damage to lead figures.
6. Do try to purchase soldiers in the best condition that you can afford.
7. Do learn as much as possible, which are rarities. Your knowledge will be pitted against the auctioneers, dealers and other collectors.

(Additional Do's added by author):
8.   Do keep records of your aquisitions, date, cost, condition of set. Preferably on computer, with back-up.
9.   Do try and buy from reputable companies and individuals.
10. Do buy complete sets (if affordable), not individual figures, unless they are connoisseur figures, i.e. Greenwood & Ball, Stadden, or equivalent.
11. Do enjoy your collection, and try to share it, and your knowledge, with others. They, or others they may know, could prove to be a source for future acquisitions.
12. Do provide adequate lighting for the display of your collection, either internally and/or externally to the display cases/shelves.

Don’ts:
1. Don’t send toy soldiers through the post unless unavoidable. When packing, use plenty of tissue paper, and pack tightly round with bubble-pack or newspaper so that the models cannot move about in transit.
2. Don’t believe that plastic figures are unbreakable. Some of the plastic used was mixed with chalk to aid paint adhesion, and is extremely brittle. Careful handling is also necessary to prevent the paint flaking off. Altogether, plastics that are not chewed, nicked, bent, warped, split, scuffed or melted – in other words, those in pristine condition – are considerably rarer than the equivalent metal models.
3. Don’t buy semi-solid home-cast figures, thay are usually worthless.
4. Don’t store lead alloy figures in oak furniture. Oak secretes tannic acid which attacks the lead.
5. Don’t feel that condition is all important – if something fits in a collection, buy it, even if it is imperfect. The perfect example may or may not be available later, and if it is, the first can be sold again.
 
(Additional Don'ts added by author):
6.   Don't touch-up or embellish figures. It's a great temptation, I know!
7.   Don't allow e-bay sellers to arbitrarily establish rarity, correctness (authenticity), completeness or condition of a set or piece. Know or find out for yourself. This is extremely important!
8.   Don't allow e-bay buyers to intimidate you into over-bidding on a set or piece.
9.   Don't expose your collection to vinegar fumes.
10. Don't neglect monitoring, and controlling, the relative humidity and temperature ranges that your collection is exposed to. Use silica-jel packs in a damp and/or near ocean environment.

Another excellent resource I have recently discovered is the web site, http://www.the-toy-soldier.com, operated by James Hillestad, who is the owner and curator of The Toy Soldier Museum, located in Cresco, Pennsylvania. One of the many great ideas he recommends is the incorporation of other articles of militaria into the display of your collection. Campaign medals (or miniature replicas), regimental cap badges, cloth insignia are a few good examples. In my display of the famous battle at Rorke's Drift I have incorporated the South African Campaign Medal 1878-1879 (with 1879 Bar), a miniature of the Victoria Cross (a record number of 11 were awarded for this single action), a regimental cap badge of the 24th Regiment of Foot (South Wales Borderers), a small stone from the actual site of the battle in Natal Province, South Africa, and an actual round of .577/.45 cal. ammunition from the Martini-Henry rifles used. Most people will recall the epic movie Zulu, starring Stanley Baker and Michael Caine (first major role), which commemorates the battle.

Here is an actual example of the benefit you can gain from having the right reference at the right time. Very recently an e-Bay seller put up for auction W. Britains Set 1859, Sentry Box with Sentry, stating a near mint condition, and that the set was rare. Unlike a lot of offerings on e-Bay the description was extremely accurate, there was a good photograph, and the seller had a valid 100% feedback rating. Checking with Opie’s Pocket Price Guide to Britains revealed that the set had only been produced from 1940-1941, and in 1946. The set’s rarity index is 80 unboxed and 90 boxed (James Opie's rarity scale is logarithmic with a range from 1 to 100, i.e. an index of 90 is twice as rare as 80, either making the set extremely rare). Unlike many of the recent auctions on e-Bay, this one went largely unnoticed (total of only 4 bidders). As a result I was able to acquire an extremely rare set at a very nominal price, in normally what is a highly competitive and overpriced environment. It doesn’t happen that frequently, but it does happen.
 
It is my intention, if interest is forthcoming, to expand this guide into the subjects of  correct composition of sets, variety/variation of both figures and boxes, condition/grading, retouching/embellishment, mismatched figures and the impact on value, reputable dealers, correct embossed markings and Depose figures (made in France under license), collecting complete sets versus individual figures, investment versus hobby, reproduction of boxes, top labels, end labels and tie card inserts, just to mention a few areas. In the mean time the books cited above discuss many of these subjects in detail, and are well worth the investment.