Few hobbies can be put to everyday use the way jewelry-collecting can. Every time you put on a necklace or slip into a pair of earrings you are utilizing your hobby. And no genre of jewelry has more versatility than plastic and Bakelite jewelry.  The variety of plastic and Bakelite jewelry allows you to fully express your style whether the occassion is formal or casual, celebratory or somber. The inexhaustible array of design, color and style of plastic jewelry match the times of your day and the occasions of your life.

  History

The word Plastic comes from a Greek word, plastikos, meaning to shape or mold. When we think of the word plastic we generally think of something that has been molded or formed using heat.

There are two types of plastic, Thermoset and thermoplastic. A thermoset plastic can be reheated and remolded. Modern polyethylene plastic pop bottles are a very good example of a Thermoset plastic, they are often recycled, reheated and remolded, into clothing and carpet.  Acrylic and PVC are more examples of this type of reusable plastic. Thermoplastic is heated, shaped and permanently hardens. It can not be heated and remolded and has resistance to heat. Melamine and Bakelite are two examples of thermoplastics.

The first plastic was invented in 1862 derived from Cellulose, a substance found in plants. The first completely manmade plastic was discovered in 1907 by Leo Baekeland, called Bakelite. The plastic industry gained momentum, slowly moving into the homes and lives of US citizens over the next 30 years. The Second World War caused a boom in plastic innovation. The war effort required most of the country's resources and plastics were found to be acceptable substitutes for some things. Although plastics had been used to make wonderful pieces of jewelry since at least the 1920s, plastic jewelry did not really take off till the war era. Metals were particularly needed for the war effort. Even the cheap metals such as tin and lead that were often used for costume jewelry were in short supply for civilian use.  Due to the shortage of metals designers began creating plastic jewelry that was found in not only Five and Dime stores but in high-end department stores. The plastic jewelry industry had come of age.

Synthetic Plastics

Celluloid - a semi-synthetic plastic made from pyroxylin and camphor. It is lightweight and comes in at least 200 colors. Celluloid can be very flammable.

Galalith - harder than celluloid this is also a semi-synthetic plastic made from milk. It is made from the protein casein in milk combined with formaldehyde. It will soften in hot water.

Bakelite - the first fully synthetic plastic also known as phenolic resin or phenol formaldehyde. Bakelite does not reshape with heat. Originally used in the electronics industry, use in the jewelry industry started in the 1930s. A few companies produced this type of plastic by other names but we now refer to all of them, although incorrectly, as Bakelite.

Acrylic - is a lightweight petrochemical thermoplastic derived from acrylic acid. It is also known as Plexiglas.

Lucite - a clear material that was used for windshields during the war. It is tinted, made opaque, carved, laminated and more. Lucite is one of the most versatile plastics for the jewelry industry.

Identification Tests

There are many tests to determine what type of plastic an item is made of. Generally speaking it is usually a combination of tests that help you determine the plastic type.

The first test is a visual examination. Look for seams. Thermoset plastics will generally show seams and mold marks. Thermoplastics like Bakelite will not usually show seams and mold marks.

Another test is the smell test. The odor of a plastic can be very telling.  You can strengthen the odor of a piece of plastic jewelry in several ways depending on the type of plastic.

 Heat. You can heat a piece of plastic by rubbing it vigorously with a finger or thumb or by placing it in hot or boiling water. It has been my experience that hot water from the tap is usually hot enough to enhance a plastic odor.  In testing a piece of jewelry with heat you must always take great care not to damage the piece. Keep in mind that accents such as rhinestones must not be put in water, hot or other wise. Boiling water may not be a good idea for some of the thermoset plastics because it could soften then and cause them to warp.

     Celluloid smells like camphor or mothballs.

     Galalith smells like burnt milk. And is sometimes referred to as French Bakelite.

      Bakelite smells like formaldehyde/ carbolic acid (to me it has a vaguely perfume smell just short of being pleasant).   09-27-06 I just made a discovery while testing some plastic items for Bakelite using the hot water method.  I had a box of buttons to test for Bakelite and my water kept getting too cold too quickly.  I bought a little plastic insulated bowl so the water would stay hot longer.  The water really ahs to be boiling or near it for some pieces.  I noticed none of the buttons were testing positive.  Just out of curiosity I tried bangle bracelet I already knew to be Bakelite.  The bracelet had no smell, did not test positive for Bakelite, when I used the water in the plastic bowl.  So apparently when testing for Bakelite, or I would imagine any plastic item, using th ehot water method,  I now think it is best to use a steel, ceramic or glass container to hold the hot water.  one last tip.  I have also found tht once you test the Bakelite with 409 or semichorme, polish it or even wash it, it maybe harder to test by smell.  I expermented with a bangle bracelet.  Cleaned one section with soap and water, 409 another and left one section alone.  The 409 and washed sections needed much hoter water to release the odor.

     Tortoiseshell smells like burned hair. Many plastics have been made to look like tortoiseshell and tortoiseshell tends to look like plastic so I included this in case you run into it.

     Vulcanite smells like sulfur, rotten egg smell.

     Ebonite same as Vulcanite above.

     Lucite has no smell at all.

    Cellulose Acetate (celluloid)smells like vinegar.

Vulcanite and Ebonite can be placed in closed plastic bags for a while. When the bags are open if the items are Vulcanite or Ebonite there will be a smell of sulfur, or rotten eggs.

Bakelite is the most sought after type of plastic jewelry.  There are a few more ways to help positively identify it.  The Bakelite tests are as follows:
     Weight - Bakelite is heavier than other plastics.The item will feel heavy for its size.
     Sound - Bakelite has a distinctive clunking sound when two pieces are hit together.  When most plastics are hit together the sound is higher, more of a clink.  To me the sound Bakelite makes is almost like the sound of two pieces of bamboo being hit together.  Once yo hear the sound you will find it easily distinguished.
     Chemical - When a cotton swap is soaked in 409, a common household cleaner available at almost all grocery stores, and rubbed on a piece of plastic the swab will turn yellowish if the item is Bakelite. Simichrome Polish, a very fine metal polish available at some hardware stores, (I have seen it selling on Ebay, my local hardware stores have never heard of it.) can also be used to test for Bakelite.  If you polish a piece of plastic with Simichrome and it leaves a yellow residue on a white rag the has tested positive for Bakelite.  If you use chemical tests for Bakelite first be sure to wash the chemicals off the piece before using the heat test.  I have discovered that the chemicals will retard the odor even in boiling water.

Collecting

There are numerous ways to collect plastic jewelry. You could collect by designer name, plastic type, era, item type (brooches, necklaces and so one) style and so on, but no matter how you decide to collect the best way is to collect what you like. Collect waht appeals to you. Forget trendy or fashionable, trends adn fashions change ever season. Gather a collection that inspires you. A collection that make you smile.

Your first concern in collecting plastic and Bakelite jewelry is condition. Condition of a piece of jewelry is extremely important! Condition not only dictates monetary value but it also dictates the value to your collection.  A piece in poor condtion will not last as long nor will you be as inclined to show it off. When you are considering buying a piece ask these questions:

     1. Is the piece well made? Is it sturdy or flimsy? Does it have loose pieces that should not be?
     2. Is it missing parts? Does it have missing clasps, pin or stones?
     3. Is the piece cracked, chipped, scratched or warped?
     4. If the piece is damaged is it repairable and at what cost?
     5. Is the piece deteriorating, showing corrosion, crumbling or flaking?

If a piece is rare or one you really interested in you may still want to purchase it in less than top condition. However,  the price of the piece should reflect the condition. Keep in mind flaws and damage to plastics is often not repairable.

Another concerns when collecting is design and the quality of the design. The old saying that beauty is in the eye of the beholder is certainly true when it comes to collecting jewelry and doubly true for collecting plastic jewelry. One person's loud and gaudy is another persons perfectly beautiful. Plain and drab to me might be is understated and elegant to you. But the quality of design holds true no matter what the design itself. When you are looking at the design of a piece ask yourself the following questions:

     1. Is the design well proportioned and the details sharp?  Details are often the way to tell a designer piece from  a knock off.  Knock offs usually lack the detail of designer pieces.
     2. Is the piece hand or machine made? More handwork generally means a more valuable piece and a higher quality piece. 
     3. Does the finish appear to be in good condition? Does the piece look well cared for?

Shopping on Ebay

When you are buying jewelry from Ebay sellers you will not be able to do as through an examination of a piece as you would if you were buying from a local shop. But that does not mean you will not be able to get a very good idea of waht you are buying before you buy it.

The first rule of Ebay shopping don't be afraid to ask questions.  If you are unsure or have concerns ask questions. You'll find that most Ebay sellers are very receptive to questions. Many will even provide more photos or photos of specific parts of an item is asked to.

Here are a few questions you might consider asking an Ebay seller:

    1. Is the piece signed or does it have a logo? Signed pieces usually have more value than unsigned, often depending on the designer.  Generally logos are too tiny to be photographed and because a seller says a piece is by so and so does not mean it is signed or has a logo. 
    2. Ask about cracks, repairs, crazing ( a network of fine cracks caused by the repeat exposure to hot and cold they usually do not go clear through an item), breaks, etc? If an item has been repaired or has some flaw the vendor should be willing to disclose it.  And keep in mind that a repair may not actually damage the value of a piece.  Particularly if it is well done
    3. What is the age of the piece? Often the age is not known but a look at the hardware can give you clues. Usually older pieces will be held together with screws and rivets. Generally newer pieces are glued. Style may also be a good clue.  For instance, when you see a piece of mod jewelry the style is so distinctive you know it is early 1960s. While age does play a role in the valueof jewelry an older piece will not always be more valuable than a newer one. The value of jewelry depends on more things than age, but while design and quality often out weigh age in valuing a piece the age is always a good thing to know when possible.

Plastic jewelry was popular in Europe as well as the US during the war era. Modern plastic jewelry is being produced by many countries today. Shopping for jewelry on Ebay gives you access to overseas jewelry, as well as a much larger selection and variety of domestic pieces than you would find in your local shops. Ebay is the place to shop for that piece you have been looking for for years, or the clasp you needed to repair a vintage necklace.  If you use the same care you use when shopping in your local shops you can shop Ebay with confidence  and self assurance.

Care of Plastic Jewelry

Do not get hairspray, perfume, deodorants, moisturizers or cosmetics in general on your jewelry.  Cosmetics and other personal care products are usually acidic, contain alcohols, or are loaded with all kinds of chemicals and dyes that can adhere to your jewelry and do damage.

Take care when handling plastic jewelry. While plastic is rather durable it can crack or break when dropped on to a hard surface.

Do not put disintegrating pieces of celluloid in with good ones. The good pieces can become contaminated and start to disintegrate.

Do not store plastic jewelry in sunlight or near heat. Keep your plastic jewelry in a cool dry dust free area.

Store plastic jewelry in a manner that prevents it from "knocking" into one another causing knicks, scratches and other flaws.

Store any piece of deteriorating jewelry separately to prevent contamination.

Do not use ammonia-based cleaners on Lucite.

Do not use gritty or abrasive cleaners on any plastic jewelry. You can use Simichrome and a soft cloth to polish but do not over rub. I would not use this product very often either.

Do not soak celluloid or casein to clean ans they will soften. Use a soft cloth to gently wipe the surface.

Plastics, being less expensive have allowed designers to stretch their imaginations. You find plastic jewelry to fit any occasion or mood. Whimsical, formal, silly, elaborate, plain, simple, any style you can imagine you will find in plastic jewelry . Fun, ornamental and interesting for the young, old, and in between. Collecting plastic jewelry is a hobby that can last a lifetime