Union labels can be helpful in determining date ranges for vintage clothing. The menswear unions have a turbulent history, and the labels are sometimes difficult to read and pinpoint dates.  This Guide is a work in progress, as we start with the available timelines and begin to identify particular label factors that can assist with dating.  I've had much help from Galetime, Maj. Nick Danger and Baron Kurtz.

Please see the related Guide for UGWA labels.  The two unions are closely related and often the labels look similar. Because of the number of images, they had to be presented separately.

Timeline

1895 - The United Garment Workers of America (UGWA) was founded in New York City in 1891, and joined the American Federation of Labor (AFL).  This was an organization of men's tailors.

1914 - a group of dissatisfied members broke away from the more conservative UGWA to form the Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America (ACWA).  AFL refused to recognize this new union.

1933 - ACWA affiliated with AFL and agreed to use UGWA labels

1936 - ACWA left AFL and joined CIO, reinstated its own label copyright 1936..

1955 - December 5, AFL merged with CIO.

1956 -  Canadian Congress of Labour(CCL) merged with Trades and Labour Congress of Canada (TLC) to form the CLC, Canadian Labour Congress

1976 - ACWA merged with Textile Workers Union of America (TWUA) to form Amalgamated Clothing and Textile Workers Union (ACTWU).  ACWA used the diamond sewing machine label until 1976.

1994 - UGWA became a part of the United Food and Commercial Workers (UFCW).

1995 - UFCW also took in the United Textile Workers of America (UTWA). 

1995 - ACTWU merged with ILGWU to form UNITE!

2000 - UGWA and UTWA combined to form the UFCW Textile and Garment Council.

2004 - UNITE! merged with HERE to form UNITE HERE.

Union History / Information Notebook, Southern Labor Archives, Special Collections, Georgia State UniversityWebsite: United Food and Commercial Workers, UFCW Councils, UFCW Textile and Garment Council. http://www.ufcw.org/internal.cfm?subsection_id=133&internal_id=548, wikipedia

ACWA Labels

We have two labels from uspto.gov. These examples are blank. Actual labels will have numbers stamped on them. 

For the actual labels, there are three copyright dates found on the labels, 1936, 1939 and 1949.  There will be some overlap as manufacturers used up their supply of labels before printing new ones.   There is some thought that the red letters printed in the middle are older, because at some point, black printed numbers came into use. 

Many thanks to Baron Kurtz, posting on Fedora Lounge, for sharing this information.

1949-1968

This is the sewing machine diamond label.  It says 'Issued and Authorized by Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America'. The right side says 'Union Made'.  The blank left side sometimes has the garment added, as 'Suit' or 'Coat'.

It has a first use date of 1949-03-01.  It was registered August 7, 1962, and is dead, no end date given.

1962-1976 Neckwear

This one is for men's and boys' neckwear. It has a first use date of 1962, and was registered in 1963.  It is dead, with no end date given.

1919

[Looking for info and image of this early label]

1936-39

Thanks to Baron Kurtz, posting on Fedora Lounge, for permission to use this picture and information.

This label has a scissors and spindle in the center diamond with the word Region below the scissors.  In the border are the words 'General Executive Board.' Surrounding the diamond are the words Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America.  Below WORKERS, it says 'Copyright 1936 by ACW of A.  On the other side is the Union Bug. 

The copyright dates are often very difficult to read.  There should be one of three dates, 1936, 1939 and 1949. 

1939-1949

Label thanks to Maj. Nick Danger, dating confirmed by Baron Kurtz, posting at Fedora Lounge

This label has a scissors and spindle in the center diamond with the word Region below the scissors.  In the border are the words 'General Executive Board.' Surrounding the diamond are the words Amalgamated Clothing Workers of America.  Below WORKERS, it says 'Copyright 1939 by ACW of A.  On the other side are the Union Bug and the number 80.  

1949-1968

Label, from a 60s jacket, and info courtesy of Baron Kurtz, posting on the Fedora Lounge.

This one has the (R) in the lower left, which indicates post TM registration.  'Suit' is filled in on the lower left side of the diamond. This does not mean Suit Workers Union, it is just the kind of garment that was made.  Uspto.gov has this tag registered in 1962, with a first use date of 1949 (See above).  There could have been an earlier registration that is no longer in the database, or this particular label was printed after the 1962 registration date.  These were used into the 70s and often had care instructions attached in the 70s.

Post 1968

[Image needed]

This label was printed on plasticky material.   Some have said it looks like a reproduction of the (C)1939 label.  More info will be posted as it is found.

Thanks again to Baron Kurtz and Maj. Nick Danger from Fedora Lounge, and to Galetime from the Vintage Clothing & Accessories Board.

©2007 Elaine Schuster 4/22/2007