Not too long ago our old cordless drill died, and it’s time for a replacement. But with so many new technologies and so many almost (but not quite) identical units on the market, selecting a cordless drill/driver can be challenging. Gone are the days where there were only two drills on the shelf to choose from; your average Home Depot stocks over 40 of them! I’ve waded through the specs, battery systems, and hype to offer you this massive comparison of over 100 units to help you find the one that’s right for you. Let’s consider some of the information manufacturers give you about their drills: Voltage Clearly this is one of the manufacturers’ biggest selling points for many cordless drills as it’s usually printed in large letters on the drill and box and it’s almost always the first piece of information provided in the name. Why does it matter? Direct current (DC) motors have two unique characteristics: the motor speed is proportional to the voltage applied to the motor, and the output torque (that is the force producing rotation) from the motor is proportional to the amount of current the motor is drawing from the batteries. In other words, the more voltage you supply to the motor, the faster it will go; and the more torque you apply to the motor, the more current it will draw. In short, with everything else equal, higher voltage should run the motor faster and provide more torque. Of course, everything else is not equal. The 18v drill you’re looking at likely has a different motor than the 14.4v and 19.2v drills you’re comparing it to, and different battery systems offer different current-draw limitations. So, your mileage may vary. The most common voltages seen on the market today are the 9.6v, 14.4v, 18v, and 19.2v, though Hitachi now offers 24v tools, Milwaukee offers 28v tools, and DeWalt even offers 36 volt (!) tools. Recommendations While an 18v or 19.2v drill will potentially offer more speed/torque, it’s possible that a 14.4v drill with a more efficient motor and a more current-friendly battery will outperform it. Luckily, most manufacturers also provide no-load speed and maximum torque specs for their products, so you really don’t have to bet on potential alone. If you’re looking for the ultimate in speed and torque, there’s no doubt you’re going to find it in the high-voltage category. Hitachi’s 24v DV24DV is rated at 1700 RPM and 576 in-lbs of torque. Milwaukee’s 28v 0724-24 V28 is rated at 1800 RPM and 600 in-lbs. Though DeWalt’s interestingly doesn’t list the maximum torque specs for their 36v hammerdrill, I suspect they’re high enough to lead it to round out our top three. These are also some of the most expensive drills on the market. However, if you back off to the 19.2v and 18v drills — and even some 14.4v drills — you’ll find a lot of performance overlap. Be sure to read those specs before you buy. BATTERY TYPE There are three types of rechargeable batteries commonly used in today’s cordless drills: Nickel Cadmium (NiCd), Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH), and Lithium Ion (Li-Ion). Each type has its advantages and disadvantages. NiCd Nickel Cadmium batteries are the “original” rechargeable, and they’ve been around long enough for pretty much everyone to have run into their disadvantages. Specifically, they provide good current flow on demand and they’re inexpensive. Most NiCds can provide up to 1000 charging cycles in their lifetime, but they’re somewhat sensitive to patterns of use. NiCds should never be completely drained, and they can’t be charged immediately after discharge; they require time to cool first. Short use is also counterindicated. In a perfect world, NiCds should be drained 70% each time. It’s probably also worth noting that Cadmium is extremely dangerous to the environment. NiMH Nickel Metal Hydride batteries are said to be less sensitive to charge/discharge cycle patterns, but the real drive behind the development of NiMH batteries started in Europe where they were mandated to limit release of Cadmium into the environment. You’ll note that the biggest manufacturers of NiMH-powered drills (Hitachi and Makita) depend on Europe for a large portion of their sales. One concern we’ve seen expressed about NiMH batteries is their short life. They’re often good for less than 1000 charges, and based on your cycle habits and use duty, sometimes much fewer. Li-Ion While Li-Ion batteries found their way into cell phones and other portable electronics years ago, they’ve only made inroads into cordless power tools in the last year or so. Li-Ion batteries offer higher power density as well as less sensitivity to charge cycle patterns and temperature during charging. Besides their very high cost, there’s little downside to their use. But wow, that’s some cost. The least expensive Li-Ion-powered drill in our comparison checked in at around $300 (street). This is definitely pro gear. Recommendations If you can afford the Li-Ion lines, they’re great. Otherwise, you’re best off sticking with good old NiCd. While they’re not the perfect solutions, manufacturers have had a long time to perfect their use. They offer a reasonably long life span, their deficiencies are well known (and avoidable), and they’re a lot cheaper. The Down And Dirty: What’s Out There The good news: There are a lot of cordless drills available now. The bad news: There are a lot of cordless drills available now. Though we found 113 for our comparison, they tend to fall into three groups: mini, standard, and heavy duty. Mini Drills/Drivers The competition for the “smallest drill/driver” is heating up. These units tend to be 9.6v or less, low-torque (the best in the comparison just barely topped 80 in-lbs.) units designed for light duty use. Their selling points are size — some claim to fit into cartridge slots on a tool belt — and life. Price Breaks Mini-drills seem to be priced like food in Vegas — either almost-free-cheap or very expensive. Representative examples are Black & Decker’s 7.2v 9099KC (selling for $20 street) and Metabo’s 4.8v PowerMaxx (selling for $160 street). There’s very little inbetween. Recommendations Honestly, unless you have a very specific use for a small drill, give the mini-drills a pass. If you do have a use, we recommend seeking one of the new high-end Li-Ion-powered drills as most of the low-end drills we saw lacked critical features such as variable speed. Standard Drills This is where 99% of drill buyers shop. I found that these drills fell into two categories: drills designed for shop use (and home use), and drills designed solely for light-duty home use. 3/8″ chuck drills are best suited for home use only, while 1/2″ drills serve well in either environment. Price Points In my study, we observed that prices tend to hover around three points in terms of standard drills: $100, $200, and $250+. In the $100 range you’ll find an imperial ton of drills with torque specs all across the board. Looking at the spec chart, you can see that it’s possible to obtain up to 420 in-lbs. of torque in this price range, but you’re going to be limited to NiCd or NiMH batteries. Li-Ion is just too expensive for this group. Bumping up to the $200 range gives you some additional options including some of the smaller Li-Ion powered Metabos. In general, adding $100 to the $100 drills buys you additional torque and possibly Li-Ion batteries. Stepping into the $250 range, in terms of standard drills, effectively buys you Li-Ion power and a bit more torque. However, the advantages are meager considering the price difference. Recommendations If you’re looking for a drill for around the house use, there are plenty to be found in the $100 range. Expect to receive at least 300 in-lbs. of torque, two speed ranges, and 16-24 clutch settings. One factor to consider in this price range is weight. If your drill will spend a significant portion of its time in small hands, or just drilling holes in the drywall, you might consider a lighter, less powerful drill. For shop use, you’ll want one of the 1/2″ chuck units with all the torque you can afford. Heavy Duty Drills Here are the monsters. 500+ in-lbs. of torque is the norm in this category, and cost is (essentially) no object. These drills are for pros with deep pockets. Summary: Final Recommendations I’ve carefully avoided telling you which drill to buy in this article; I believe that the drill that’s right for me isn’t necessarily the drill that’s right for you. Instead I’ve tried to provide you with some insight into how to decode the mess of specs available to make your best seletion. I recommend the following basic process: 1. Ask yourself where and how the drill will be used. Will you use it for production work in the shop? On the jobsite? Or just around the house and garage? This will help you narrow the list down by quickly eliminating drills that are way above or way below your needs. 2. Next, ask yourself how much you’re willing to spend. You can eliminate another large set of drills by culling those that are beyond your means. 3. Finally, review the specs to find the best match. You’ll want as much torque as you can find, but be sure to consider weight and battery type. I hope this guide is helpful to you. Thanks.