The first step is to get all the necessary equipment and tools.  The 21mm and 10mm allen need to be sockets rather than wrenches because you will need to torque them to the correct setting.  A torque wrench is required for all kinds of maintenance. You will also need about 4 liters of your preferred oil (We use Motul fully synthetic) You also can't forget the oil filter and a crush washer for the oil drain plug and a crush washer for the filter screen bolt.  All right, let's get started:

The first step is to heat the oil up with a short ride.  Then place the drain pan under the engine, and place the bike upright (like on a
stand).  Next, take your 10mm allen and remove the plug and let the oil drain.

Next, take your oil filter wrench (or channel locks, or Craftsman strap wrench in my case) and remove the old filter.  It will probably be on there very tight, especially if the oil has not been changed before.  After it is removed, you can let the oil drain from that orifice for a while.  Be sure the drain pan is underneath to catch the oil that will come out.

Now, take the oil filter and pour oil into it until it starts to overflow, wait for it to settle, and keep adding until it is full.  This is done to
ensure that the engine doesn't hit a dry spot in the lubrication chain.  Don't fill it all the way or it will spill everywhere when you try to
tighten it on again.  Very lightly coat the rubber gasket with oil, then spin it into place.  When the filter just barely touches the engine
block, continue to spin 3/4 to 1 full turn, but no more.  You don't want to overtighten it.

Now for the oil filter screen.  Take your 21mm socket (or 14mm hex bit) and loosen the bolt head that is on the side of the engine, just
below and to the right of the oil level sight glass.  Remove the bolt and slide the filter screen out.  On models with the 14mm allen outer, you
will now need to remove the 14mm allen inner, which actaully holds the screen.   On these models it is in there TIGHT, and you may need a
breaker bar.  There may be some crud here and there, but you are mainly checking for metal bits.  If there are very tiny shavings
(especially during engine break-in), do not be alarmed.  If there are numerous shavings and chunks of metal, that could be a sign of several
things.  The transmission gears could be damaged, or the rocker arms could be flaking the chrome off (on four valve motors).  Clean it off,
replace the crush washer with your new one, put it back in, and tighten to the required torque (this spec can be found on Ducati's website or in the service manual for the bike).

Next, take the drain plug and replace the crush washer, then tighten it to the correct torque (again, this spec can be found on Ducati's website or in the service manual).

Now you can fill the engine with oil.  Just slowly add the oil and constantly check the sight glass (with the bike level and turned off of
course, which requires a stand or a buddy), because you don't want the engine overfilled.  It should be between the two marks on the sight
galss.  Once it's full, start the bike up.  You'll notice that the oil warning light may stay on, but if it doesn't go off after ten seconds you should urn the bike off and wait for the oil to drain back down, then check the level and fill accordingly.  Then start it again and go for a ride.

The oil change is a simple process that can save you some money.