Care of Antique Furniture

     
  Antique Wood Furniture, because of its value, should be approached carefully by any do-it-yourselfer. It is always more desirable with

the original finish. Avoid extremes of humidity and temperature, which accelerate cracking and checking of finish, and loosen joints and

veneer. Never set beverage glasses, vases of flowers, etc. on surfaces without coasters or mat protection. Vacuum or dust surfaces with

a soft cloth. Occasionally use a cloth just barely dampened with solvent-based cleaning wax to wipe the surface to pick up more dust,

and immediately wipe with a dry cloth or soft paper towel. Never use spray waxes or polishes on surfaces. They leave a residue and

create a higher gloss. Many spray and cream waxes contain silicones, which may make future refinishing more difficult.

Occasionally wax with a hard paste wax with carnauba. Rub on a very light coat with a soft cloth in the direction of the grain of the

wood. Some woodworkers suggest putting a lump of wax inside a few layers of folded cotton cheesecloth and rubbing it onto wood thus

preventing heavy smears. Next buff at once with soft cloth, turning often, until wax coating is hard. Be sure all wax is completely buffed

until hard to avoid smears and streaks. A small electric polisher can save effort, but be careful not to burnish the wood by pressing too

hard in any position. Wipe the surface gently with clean soft cloth after applying wax to remove any loosened soil and then let set several

minutes before buffing. An occasional re-buffing will renew a soft gloss. Paste wax helps to cover small cracks and checks in old finishes,

and can easily be removed with mineral spirits when desired.

Antiques that have been refinished should be treated according to type of finish as described in other sections. Since old finishes may be

affected by cleaning treatments, always test the first time on an inconspicuous place on the furniture to be sure it is compatible with the

finish. Lacquer is hard and glossy, but is also brittle so it may be dented or chipped. Avoid hard blows. Avoid use of water unless the

furniture label recommends it. The newer synthetic lacquers are more durable; however, older lacquered pieces and many imports have

finishes affected by some solvents, so test every product first on an inconspicuous area.

You will want to dust regularly with a soft, dry cloth. Never use oiled or treated cloths on lacquered finishes. Some finishes can be wiped

with a damp (not wet) cloth, followed at once by rubbing with a dry cloth to remove fingerprints and smudges. A solvent-based furniture

cleaner may be useable on many finishes, but always test first. Apply liquid wax on occasion to maintain a gloss. When heavy cleaning is

called for, use solvent base furniture cleaner. Apply with a soft cloth in one hand, and wipe at once with a soft cloth in other hand, doing

only a small area at a time. Oil soap may be satisfactory on some finishes, but test first to be sure it is ok with finish. Protect with liquid

wax or polish to maintain a gloss.

The oil finish can have many names, from countries (i.e., French, Danish, and Dutch) to brands. Basically cleaning oiled wood requires you

blend 1 pint boiled linseed oil, 1 pint gum turpentine, and 6 oz. distilled white vinegar. Gum turpentine is flammable but smells like fresh

wood. Wear gloves. Do not use around flames or sparks, and do not get on skin. Wipe the surface with a soft cloth that has been dipped

in the cleaning solution. Never pour the solution directly onto the wood. Let the solution stand for a few minutes to loosen the soil, then

wipe off the excess. All excess oil must be removed or it will attract dust and get gummy or tacky. To finish, rub with the grain.

Never use wax or furniture polish on oil finishes. Re-oil yearly with boiled linseed oil, Tung oil, or a product recommended by the

manufacturer. These oils harden when exposed to air and seal the wood. Never use non-drying oils like mineral oil for wood finishes for

furniture. Avoid using oil dressing too often or too liberally as it will cause a hardened oil build-up. If this happens, use mineral spirits to

dissolve the residue. Painted finish furniture requires regular dusting with a damp cloth. When very soiled, wash with a solution of mild,

non-abrasive detergent and warm water. Wring a cloth nearly dry and work on a small section at a time, then rinse with clear water. Dry

the surface before continuing.

Waxes and polishes are usually not needed. If waxes are used, use a white creamy type on light painted items to avoid discoloration.

Never use oil or any polish containing oil. Avoid oil treated cloths. Hand rubbing any polish can damage painted decoration or trim. Painted

surfaces can be carefully touched up with matching paint but the results often look patched. Where possible, try to remove spots and

scuff marks by washing or cleaning with household cleaners. Sanding will change the luster of the sanded spot, especially if the finish has

been antiqued. If extensive damage has been done, the piece will need repainting. Very old pieces with their original finish should usually

not be repainted or refinished as you may remove the indications of its authenticity and antique value.

Polyurethanes are liquid plastic resins that dry to a durable satin or gloss finish. Polyurethane finishes are much more resistant to moisture

and spills and moderate heat than traditional varnishes, and do not need much protection. Most manufactured furniture is not

polyurethane coated, as it requires considerably more drying time and undercoat work to apply commercially. Dust regularly with a soft dry

cloth and wipe dry. When needed, wipe with a moist cloth, not wet. This will remove fingerprints and light soil. When dirt or grime have

built up, clean with mineral spirits.

Wax or polish can build into an enemy. Remove it with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. Clean small areas at a time. Wipe each area

with a clean cloth before going on to the next. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands, and dispose of them afterward, or wash in hot

suds and air dry. Air-dry cloths used in cleaning to evaporate the solvent before disposing. Old furniture may have a shellac finish,

probably refinished at home. Knotty pine rooms also were normally treated with shellac. Keep moisture away from shellac surfaces. Water

or a damp environment, as in humidity, makes shellac sticky. Test in an inconspicuous spot with denatured alcohol; shellac will dissolve

quickly. Vacuum or dusts regularly with a soft, dry cloth; do not use oiled or treated cloth.

You may protect the finish with a liquid furniture wax or cream polish that gives the desired gloss. If dirty, clean with either a cleaning

polishing wax for furniture. Follow the directions on the label for cleaning, or use a solution of equal parts of boiled linseed oil and mineral

spirits. Moisten a soft cloth with cleaner and rub briskly, changing cloth when soiled. If surface is very dirty, process may have to be

repeated. Use 3/0 or 4/0 steel wool to remove stubborn soil and smooth roughened places. If finish is in poor condition, use denatured

alcohol to remove, and refinish with modern finish. Varnished wood should be protected with a furniture wax. As wax and varnish are

perishable, protect surfaces from water, alcohol, other liquids, foods and cosmetics. Table pads, glass tabletops and other coverings work

best.

Dust regularly with a soft dry cloth. If the finish is waxed, do not use oiled or treated cloths, as they may make the wax sticky.

Occasional rubbing of surface with clean, dry, soft cloth removes smudges and dust and leaves sheen. Some varnish finishes may be

wiped with a moist cloth to remove fingerprints and light soil, followed at once by rubbing with a clean dry cloth. Test first on an

inconspicuous spot to be sure this does not damage varnish. Do not get varnish wet, or allow a damp cloth to stand on it.

When dirt or grime have built up, clean with a solvent-based furniture cleaner polish, or wax. Use one that gives the desired gloss

compatible with varnish gloss, high or low luster. Most polishes and waxes leave a layer of wax on surfaces to protect the finish. When

cleaning, do only a small area at a time and wipe dry with clean cloth. Waxed surfaces may be buffed occasionally to restore shine. Re-

wax if buffing does not restore a shine.

Excess wax or polish is an enemy. Remove it with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits or synthetic turpentine. Should the furniture be

badly soiled due to neglect, use very fine 3/O or 4/O steel wool instead of a cloth and rub with the grain of the wood. Some finishes can

be damaged by prolonged contact with mineral spirits. Clean small areas at a time. Wipe each area with a clean cloth before going on to

the next. Discard steel wool as it becomes soiled. When using mineral spirits, turpentine, or other solvents, including solvent-based

cleaners, follow all label warnings. They are flammable, so don't use near any flame spark, or pilot light, and don't smoke. Wear rubber

gloves to protect your hands, and dispose of them afterward, or wash in hot suds and air dry. Air-dry cloths used in cleaning to evaporate

the solvent before disposing.

Some varnishes may be washed if badly soiled. Test this method first in an inconspicuous spot; if it streaks, or turns white and hazy stop,

if ok to proceed, use solution of mild detergent and lukewarm water. Use a clean sponge or soft cloth. Wash, rinse and dry only a small

area at a time, working fast to avoid over-wetting the finish. Avoid excess water, especially around joints. When completely dry, polish or

wax. In most cases, it saves time and energy to clean with furniture polish/wax in the first place. Oil soaps may clean satisfactorily on

some varnish finishes; test first in an inconspicuous spot. 

Test for Existing Finish on Furniture

• 
  Rub a Few Drops of Boiled Linseed Oil Into the Wood - If it absorbs, the wood has an oil finish. If it beads up, the wood has a hard finish.
• Rub Acetone Over a Spot in a Gentle, Circular Motion - Polyurethane finishes shed acetone like water.
• Lacquer dissolves in 30 seconds with rubbing. Varnishes and shellacs turn to a sticky, gel-like substance after a minute or two.
• Try a Few Drops of Denatured Alcohol - Shellac dissolves quickly in denatured alcohol. Varnish reacts slowly.