The following are facts on Carnauba wax and it's benefits to maintaining the finsh of ANY painted surface and counter the claims made by some that it is an outdated method, facts and information gathered by Gliptone of Arizona for the education and aid of individuals and other wax producing companies.........."GLIPTONE" Try It Once, ...Use It Forever!

     "Gliptone" produces a full product line of car care products from Biodegradable, PH neutral wash, several highly specialized wax products, One step wheel and tire cleaner that cleanes wheel and tire with a single application and hoses off, to Leather care products and everything in between, and each product we carry out performs any other product of it's kind from any manufacturer, and that can be attested to by the word of thousands of satisfied and loyal customers since 1947, we are a NON-ADVERTISED brand..

WAX vs. The competition

     Wax has been the safest and most reliable method to shine and protect your finish for nearly an entire century, and funny as it sounds "Natural wax" has proven itself time and again, better than man made materials (synthetic/"High Tech) which claim to be superior. People find after experimenting with these new age products that natural wax shines and protects just fine and in fact better and doesn't permanently react to the painted surface like most of the synthetic products do.  Go to any show where high end or custom Cars, Motorcycles or Trucks (even Boats) are being shown, (also/especially  restorations) and look at what they use to make them look like they do....WAX, and nothing else.  Show car owners, and people with their daily drivers have been using waxes to maintain and shine their vehicles since it became fashionable to ensure the longevity of the finish on this, thier second highest expense, all this time with nothing but satisfaction and success in their efforts but have been let down with the poor performance and expense of the new items that had promised such a higher value and performance level. You can always tell the vehicles that have NOT been waxed by the fact that they looked aged and damaged, (if wax was a problem or did  NOT do the job it was advertised to do people would have been looking desperately for something to do this job long before products arrived claiming to be better), but the fact is it works.  Wax companies are more numberous now than ever (although the type of wax has changed over the years....everything from Bee's wax to Perifin and Carnauba) some producing good performing products, and others that sell wax products to cater to the need for ease in application rather than high quality.  The only reason for another method is people tend to like it when they hear they won't have to exert themselves in order to get a good shine on their vehicle (also there is money to be made from exploiting our inherrant need for a shortcut) and the "Never Wax Your CAr Again" claim is a real eye opener to those looking for a short cut.  (ok, there are those that simply do not have the time...but for them there are professional detailers that use time proven products to do this job.)  It really is an easy process, it's just that people don't always perform the job according to the proper guidlines that make the products work the way they are designed to, and in reality, it's work.  However, taking shortcuts only shortcut the ability of the materials they are working with, and in spite of the grandious claims of these imposters, there is no such animal as a product that simply wipes on and protects like a quality wax will, or a wax that buffs off with ease and protects the paint....(I may have said this somewhere else, but if the wax dries to a white dust and then just wipes "Easily" off,..exactly what is it that stayed on the paint and is going to protect it?).

     The main reason for any problems with a wax product is the misuse of it, or the use of a wax designed for a purpose other than the actual needs you may have (I actually had someone at a motorcycle event tell me he uses "Lemon Pledge" on his motorcycle!!!...yeah you read that right!).  There are directions on the can (or bottle) that direct the user to specific process that the particular item will work with, as well as a description of the type of wax...be it a "Cleaner Wax", a Long Term (lasting) protectant or a "super shine/wet look" wax / polish.  If the directions say to work in small areas and buff when it reaches a dull haze, that is the way product engineers found that it reacts to the paint surface with maximum efficiency...by working the product differently than prescribed by the manufacturer, it will not interface with the surface where it is being applied,...it won't stick or lay down on the surface and will not do the job it was designed to do, or if left on the surface too long it may be nearly impossible to buff off in some cases.  Example: waxes that are designed for a long term or extended effective time line are usually NOT a "cleaner wax",  and if you have oxidation or imperfections that a cleaner wax or one that is designed for damaged paint is indicated (which usually do not work well) and you purchased the forementioned type of wax (a Non-Cleaner Wax) product, you won't reach the goal you had in mind when you made your purchase, you may get a shine of some sort and seemingly what you wanted, but the outcome will fall short of expectations because you didn't have the correct product on hand to do the job correctly, thus giving wax a "black eye". 

     Waxes are not the same and if your not sure what you need or what the particular product your purchasing is designed to do,  the best thing to do is ask a question about it, and the best place to go is the people that manufacture the item in question...if you ask the people in the store where it is sold, they might just be giving you their opinion and perhaps NOT an accurate accounting of the ability of the product,... remember, they sell brake shoes, radiotor hoses, floor mats, seat covers etc....they are more than likely not well versed on the makings of a quality wax product except for what they see sells well in their location.   Of coarse the manufacturer is going to tell you that their product outperforms the competition, that's when you turn to see the track record of that product, not just the availability and popularity of it. ((or because the owner of the company has a TV show))  And then sometimes you just have to try it yourself.....however, starting with a product that has a reputation for consistancy and a highly regarded track record, gives you the edge in finding the best product available.  The ingredients tell you most of what you need to know....and the next few paragraphs will show what works the best and what you need to look for in a quality wax product.  

      Also, contrary to some of the latest hearsay, WAX DOES NOT...I repeat...DOES NOT PROMOTE RUST....>the claim is that wax traps moisture against the surface of the vehicle and causes it to rust< CORRECTION: when applied correctly, it's the paint that keeps the metal surfaces from oxidizing...the wax protects the paint so it doesn't come off or become so porous that it allows moisture to penetrate the paint barrier covering the metal, and when the wax does it's job the paint reamins in place to keep RUST from happening.  Anyway, when applied correctly, the wax itself will displace moisture by filling the pores of the paint and be removed in the buffing process, after all you don't just wipe the wax on,..you work it in. (It's amazing what some manufacturers or merchants will tell you in order to sell you a "Johhny-Come-Lately" product that needs some form of a grandious claim to make it credible.)

     Probably the most common misuse is the cleaning process....the norm is for the owner (or the designated washer) to reach for the nearest bottle of soap that can be dissolved into a bucket of water, and rub it all over the vehicle being cleaned.  If the soap is anything but a specific CAR or AUTOMOTIVE wash agent, it will, no doubt, remove all of the wax presently on the surface of the paint.  This is NOT what you want to do...all you want to remove is the portion of the wax that is contaminated with dust and road debris, the very top layer, and an automotive specific wash worth it's salt is designed to do exactly that and the use of this type of cleaning agent (that will clean efficiently without removeing the wax that is sealing the paint) is the only correct method of cleaning your vehicle.  Damage can be done with harsh cleaners, not only to the paint's top layer, but any harsh chemicals from the cleaner can penetrate the paint and begin to destroy the pigment or it's bonding to the lower layers of paint or primer, possibly causing the paint to lift and peel.   Certain cleaners are also "Bio-degradable" and that may be important to alot of people, especially if you wash your vehicle alot and dump large quantities of soapy water/cleaning solution into the ground or drainage systems in your neighborhood.  (For a complete guide to proper cleaning process go to this eBay page http://reviews.ebay.com/How-To-Wash-Your-Car-Truck-Motorcycle-or-Boat_W0QQugidZ10000000002540683 )

     If proper methods are adhered to, then the rest of the process is more than efficient to keep the paint looking it's best for years, if not the entire life of the vehicle...I have personally seen vehicles over 30 years old that have been regularly serviced using the very brands of products I make available and these vehicles are in LIKE NEW condition on the outside...no tricks,..no gimmicks,...no fancy new age technologies that are supposed to have you "Never Wax Your Car Again"...just good old regular maintainence of the vehicles finish, and waxing as needed with a quality product.  (just for the record,...Our Tephlon wax stays on the surface of the paint safely for up to a year and more with a garage kept vehicle, and protects from heavy acid rain, bird droppings, and other air borne contaminants to a major degree above and beyond the alternative methods of protection, and it's Dupont Tephlon, (Now called Zonyl)...the stuff they use on non stick cookware, (there are those that insist that "Tephlon" needs to be heated to apply, well that was true in it's beginning, but they have found a way to spray it on  >see our definition of "Amino Fuctional Fliuds<...that is how it's applied to stick proof cookware, maybe that's the reason they call it by a different name now when used in various wax products...) and a periodic wash using our "Wash n Glow" will keep it shining as if you just waxed it.  Simply stated....Properly used, a Wax product designed for the protection of the painted surface of any vehicle, when utilized within the parameters of it's design and properly applied, will without a doubt, shine/protect, and safely do the work of any paint sealer costing many dollars (or rubles) more without the possibility of the problems that I'll deal with in the next portion.  Additives aside, a high grade Carnauba wax will protect against anything thrown at it without resorting to expensive New Age/High Tech junk that does nothing more than empty your wallet quicker, in more ways than just the initial cost.

     The chemicals that are used to side-step this reliable and time honored practice is PTFE (Polytetraflouroethylene >a vinyl< is made from the monomer tetraflouroethylene >Tephlon< by free radical Polymerization. This adaptation is designed to penetrate through the paint, become a solid and permeate it in it's entirety right to the base-right to and including the primer, keeping anything from sticking or adhereing to it, even materials you may intend to apply, such as stick on or painted on pin stripes and even touch up.  Silicone based wax products also do pretty much the same thing...they set up a protectant base that is so impenatrable that even touch ups can turn into a major paint job, resulting in a costly and lengthly proceedure that should have been relatively simple ...These products work so well they keep you from being able to, again,  pin stripe or do any type of repair to either the paint (scratch, ding/chip) even a dent that needs paint to complete the repair..the new paint will simply peel or fall off because the PTFE or Silicone is keeping anything from sticking to that paint which has been treated, and that's if you can even get the paint to lay down without fisheye or some other evil occurance.  This will require stripping and repainting the entire panel being repaired...there is no way to apply paint over any area of material that has been treated with PTFE (or Silicone) once treated, again that paint has to be removed completely and  re-applied.   Now this doesn't mean that it's protecting still, their sales pitch claims that it'll stay on effictively up to 5 years, they take no account that the surface may have been exposed to solvents or caustic chemicals...it's just that the chemical is creating a barrier that even though the paint is open to being damaged by various contaminants, it's presence is still enough to keep paint from laying down properly...(applying paint is a tedious and painstaking process that mandates cleanliness and very strict guidlines as to what the recieving surface must be like in order for it to react like it should...these chemicals cannot be present when painting, even a mist or vapor can ruin an otherwise perfect paintjob...I've seen a paintjob ruined because someone in the shop decided to spray "Armour All" on their floor mats in the shop just prior to the color being applied...the entire side of the car closest to where he was working lifted with a 24 hour period) ...

     There are also Acrylics (the stuff they use on floors in supermarkets) and so called Ceramic coatings that do indeed put down a decent protectant, but tend to crack in time and parts of it come off and leave you with an uneven surface...it's sort of like putting a plastic film over your paint..and if it has to be removed it can destroy your finish in the process.  These coatings also keep a repair from being done for similar reasons, resulting in the forementioned additional steps to complete it properly.  Keep in mind, I am a custom painter and have had problems with these products many times, sometimes the customer never knew until the previous owner got involved and told us of the application of the so called end to waxing product.     Besides, if wax was such an inferior  treatment for the protection of your vehicles painted surface, WHY DO THEY INCLUDE A STRIPPING AGENT TO REMOVE THE WAX SO YOU CAN APPLY THIER PRODUCT.   

     The Polimers found in our Platinum series products, are known as Amino Functional Fluids, Tephlon (Zonyl) being one of those, Clirilium another.  These fluids chemicaly bond to the painted finish forming a barrier of protection that is resistant to the elements and harsh chemicals, which can be washed off, when neccessary, using a detergent that's designed to remove the wax product without damaging the paint...you can then, re-apply the wax anytime. And that's it's job...to sacrifice itself for the benefit of the paint if neccessary. This extra protection in these additives is over and above the already present protection of the high calibre wax already contained in the product.  (to add insult to injury the alternative product companies charge you upward of $50.00, in some cases a couple of hundred dollars just to own it and then  a buffing machine costing a couple of hundred dollars to apply it, and you must re-apply it in as soon as 5 years,  possibly sooner,..but they don't tell you that !)....however, if you wax your beloved machine only when it needs it...a single bottle or can of wax can last you just about that long and it costs  a  small portion of what they are going to rob you for their "Mouse Milk".(mouse milk is a phrase I picked up years ago to denote or distinguish a totally useless product...like mouse milk)..and just the little bit of your time that you'll spend pampering your ride with a wax job, you've put a natural protectant that shines like nothing else you'll spend your hard earned dollars on, and it's effectiveness will be as good as whatever the product is that you've selected, and if you choose wisely, one that will suite your needs.... that.... is the absolute best you can do !!!.....(and I am thinking if you want to purchase anything that's going to ensure the longevity of your vehicles finish...it's worth the time and effort...don't You?)  Besides, a periodic interface with your car such as a waxing, allows you to get up close and see the surface of your entire vehicle so you can detect any problems that are either present or avoidable (chips, scratches, or even rust spots)....but, if you just shine it up once every 5 years your not allowing any quality time with your ride to evaluate and inspect it's road-worthiness, and you may never be aware of any pending or existing problems it has.   (just an observation from someone who's been involved with cars and Motorcycles for a long time)  ....read on!!!

                                                                                    meet the "Gliptone" Saturn race car

Carnauba

Copernicia Prunifera

Family: Arecaceae

CTFA Name: Copernicia Cerifera

     Carnauba got it's name from the native people that live in the region where the tree it's extracted from, grows wild.  It is a natural wax, extracted from a palm tree which grows to a height of about 40 ft along riverbanks in the northeastern region of Brazil (and it's the only place this tree is found).  The genus name "Copernicia" was coined in dedication to the Polish astronomer Nicolas Copernicus (1473-1543 CE), while the former species name "Cerifera" signifies that the tree produces wax.  The tree produces clusters of flowers and a brownish fruit, and it's leaves which contain a thin layer of wax are harvested between the months of September and March while the leaves are still closed and covered with a thin layer of wax.  The wax is produced by the trees natural protection system to guard against the sun's damaging effects from UV radiation and other factors.  Each tree contains several hundred leaves and it takes in the neighborhood of 200 leaves to produce 7 kilos (15.5 lbs.) of wax.   The wax is then extracted, turned into a pure powder, sifted and melted into bars.   It has the highest melting point of any natural wax on the planet (198°f), and due to its limited supply, Carnauba products tend to cost considerably more than other waxes and/or synthetic substitutes, and #1 Yellow Brazilian Carnauba (the only Carnauba used in Gliptone products) is the most rare, expensive and desirable of all types of Carnauba.

     Wax, when applied properly, leaves a film over the paint that fills the pores of the paint and does NOTHING PERMANENT, yet protects while on the surface and depending on the particular wax used, will in itself protect against most contaminats it may come in contact with.  It's very design in disipating over time is what makes it such a perfect protectant...you never have to prepare your paint for recieving wax as a protectant, nor do you have to worry about what to do if something caustic gets on the paint.  With the other "Protectants, you need to wonder and worry if the protection is still there, but with a wax product...just apply a little wax over the area in question...and your finished.  A perfect example of this is gasoline....if it gets on that PTFE product, the question is...did the gasoline  damage it enough to allow damage to my paint if this accident should happen again..in particular on a motorcycle....with a wax product, in fact our Platinum series wax/sealant, I've personally experienced a gas spill (a really nasty one on an extremely hot day) on my Harley, where I can actually see the wax going away and a mark where it was...showing the bare paint...I went home cleaned it and applied another coat of wax and you'd never know anything had ever happened, and that is exactly what wax was designed to do, my paint was protected and I didn't have to spend a fortune or go thru a big ordeal to re-apply more of it to insure my paint was protected.

     Not only does Gliptone use the finest grade of Carnauba available (#1 yellow). Gliptone's tradition of quality is based on using the finest quality ingredients, including the highest percentage of Carnauba (as compared to so-called competitive products). A Carnauba based car wax tends to protect your paint finish with a clear film of durable protection. Eventually this film wears away, however, with Gliptone's high percentage of Carnauba in all of our Carnauba wax products, its durability surpasses other natural wax products.(it lasts longer and does a better job)  Some will try to make you believe that wax is so delicate it fails when exposed to heat.  Their claim is that "wax melts under heat "...and that's correct....CANDLE WAX!.....and even that requires an actual flame!  (there are some candles that contain a small amount of carnauba to increase the melting point of the candle, in fact the wax they use is a petroleum derivitive called "Perefin" and is processed into pellets and pressed into shape, then after the wick is inserted, it is dipped into a Carnauba wax solution to give it a "Hard Shell" to resist deformation in heat or quick melting when lit,...but it's "White Carnauba" not the same Carnauba used in our products) The wax used in Gliptone products is like we have stated, #1 Yellow Brazilian Carnauba with a melting temperature of 198 degrees, and other brands use other types of Carnauba which still are not as fragile as the naysayers will lead you to believe.  Incidentely, remember we said Carnauba protects the leaves of the trees it's extracted from against the harmful UV of the sun...well it doesn't lose that quality when converted from a powder to the substance in the wax products we produce.  Carnauba is the best natural UV protectant you can get for any painted surface, and that's a proven fact.  Also, Carnauba wax is natural, so it won't permenently interact with the paint on your ride. Only to naturally seal, protect and with the natural ability of Carnauba to produce a natural shine, there's no downside to the use of wax the visual result of using it on your ride is beyond compare, and if there comes a time you want it removed....simply use a detergent that is designed to be just strong enough to remove it without causing damage to your paint and your done.   Prepsol or other wax removers sold in auto body shops nationwide (worldwide) are a perfect aid to be sure the wax is no longer on the painted surfaces and this is probably the strongest solution that can be safely used for this purpose without removing the paint...(strong as it is, it won't penetrate deep enough to disolve the aforementioned products that permeate the paint ae Silicone and PTFE)

Debunk the Heat issue!

     I Personally measured the heat of a Running, sitting in the Sun, grey 1986 Mercury Grand Marquis, on a 110 degree day in Phoenix Arizona, using a Raytek Raynger ST model #ET8T3LX Lazer heat detector, recorded the hottest spot on this vehicle (being the hood, directly over the engine while sitting still in the direct sun, after a 26 mile ride) at 173 degrees.(well below the previously mentioned 198 degree melting temp of our carnauba)...the rest of the vehicle recorded temps only at 136 and that graduated to the high of 173 from the edge of the hood to the center over the engine, and 136 was the high...it was as low as 122(portions exposed to shade were considerable lower...in fact just the 110 indicated by the ambient temperature is what I recorded in most of the shaded areas.  Keep in mind this is an extreme, Nationwide or even worldwide, your not going to have your vehicle exposed to these kinds of torturous temps (I am thinking you might not even want to be there)  so all this Hooplah about wax melting in the heat, is obviously someones hard sell tactics.

If you go to my Ebay page "Gliptone of Arizona" (the "me" section http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=newyorkharleydude) there is a complete FAQ on all our products...go there and if you still have a question...contact me personally and I'll be more than willing and happy to answer all your questions.

   Bye for now................................................................................................................................................