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As a service advisor at the largest boat store in Michigan, I came to know a few things about used runabouts and other fiberglass boats. Hopefully some of the information that I picked up over the years can be of some use to you. I'll organize this list from the bottom of the boat up, so that I can stay organized.

• Trailer: make sure the trailer has functioning lights, no lugnuts are missing, the tires are not weatherchecked or dried out, the wheelbearings are packed with grease, and the coupler functions the way that it should. Older trailers often have odd-sized wheel hubs and bearings, and it can be a pain to track down replacements (trust me, I know). Trailer items are not something you want to spend your money on right after you purchased a new boat. Repairs can be costly (even tires and rims these days are upwards of $40 each these days, and hub and bearing kits for old trailers can run over $40 a set).

• Hull: inspect the hull for signs of visible damage. Inspect all chips (there will be some on a used boat if you look hard enough) for depth, and to see if any cracks have resulted. Stay away from boats that have significant local hull damage, or if the hull is in a general state of "tenderization". These are signs that the boat may have hidden issues. I wouldn't disregard a dirty hull, however. Some lakes and rivers are not as clean as others, and people that store their boats in the water may have severe hull discoloration. This can be a great bargaining point to getting a better deal on the boat. If you pay $150 to have the hull acid washed, you may be money ahead, depending on the price discount you negotiated.

• Outdrive-inspect for signs of skeg damage, and prop damage. Outdrive repairs will be the second most expensive part of the boat to repair (after the engine) and are best to avoid. To replace an outdrive (even with a remanufactured unit) will cost you thousands.

• Topside fiberglass: spider cracks, and sun fade. Spider cracks result from flexing of the fiberglass. This can be repaired, but it usually returns. Just an FYI. Sun fade, except in the most extreme conditions, can be wheeled out. Check all floors,and seat mounts. If they are soft anywhere, avoid the boat unless you are comfortable with fiberglass repairs. Older boats often have soft floors that can be nearly impossible to repair well.
  

• Carpets, cushions, and other interior components: Check for tears, rot, and fading. Tears can usually be repaired relatively cheaply, but it is hard to match the color of sun faded vinyl. Stay away from seats with rot, unless you are ok with replacing them (have you seen the price of boat seats lately?)
• Engine- Check for leaks, and inspect the oil. If you are serious about a boat, take the time to do a thorough engine inspection. Look for water in the oil, check the freeze plugs, run the motor and check for leaks, anything you can do to make sure that the machine is in good running condition. New and remanufactured engines start at about $3,000 and work their way up from there. Don't buy someone else's problem.