Spin the black circle? that's analog audio! Yeah I'm talking about playing records on a phonograph.  A record clamp is a turntable accessory (tweak) that will improve the sound of your vinyl. It can also flatten out mild warps, which helps maintain proper tracking. The three clamping methods used to fit on the turntable spindle are: threaded, collet and unthreaded, more about this later. 

I like audio especially analog because it's hands on. Tweaking doesn't have to be super expensive and is not just for the elite. In fact it's easy to make a mid grade system sound great. A record clamp is an inexpensive improvement and well worth the minimal investment. I'll include a few no cost tweak tips at bottom.

Without getting too technical a clamp can give you: Stable sound image, better transient response, less distortion and a deeper sound stage. As designer of the Bren1(fire1) by Gilabendtm, I think the word "resonance" is key in describing how analog vibration or sound travels and how different materials and manufacturing processes of a clamp can effect function. They can be made out of aluminum, stainless steel, plastic, (steel, not good with MC cartridges) and brass which may be good for a trombone but remember we want to dampen  and release resonance.  

Stay away from a product that primarily advertises how beautiful, shiny & awesome it is.

In our manufacturing process we use certified 6061-T6 solid USA aluminum. It is turned from an extruded bar (billet) vs. the cheaper unprecise casting method which can also lead to inferior material usage. After making dozens of prototypes I've found aluminum produces an even dampening of resonance with less mid bloom (unbalanced frequencies) than other metals/aloys. Clamps made out of plastic or a type of polymer I do not recommend because... well their plastic! 

If the manfacturer doesn't advertise the country of origin it's probably (Republic of China).  Of course even some of the well known brand names sub out to a vendor and put their name on it. And then there are knock offs.

Warps?  the bad news. A clamp/weight can help mild warp or cupping. A periphery (outer ring) clamp can be a plus in keeping the lip down with cupping. Most warps are on the outer edge, they are created by heat and can not be returned to original shape. Using the "solid expanded" principle, a record even if it's heated back flat won't be the same. (there are machines that claim to do this but seldom work) Many people think using a heavy weight or a forceful clamp will fix a warp, it won't and is overall  detrimental.

Three clamping methods. 

• The collet style closes down on the spindle. The user must  push it down manually and turn a knob to grab the spindle, difficult to do. It requires an untapered portion of spindle 5mm or more in length above record to work***. Many of the  collet styles such as the Michell incorporate a felt washer that needs to be placed on the turntable then the record is placed and finally the clamp. The rationale behind this is that the pressure against the record will dish it to help eliminate warps. I feel it's mostly marketing and can be detrimental to the effect your trying to achieve. The Bren1 is certainly superior to this style clamp. 

• A proprietary threaded clamp screws onto a TT manufactures threaded spindle. VPI* would be one, though some cartridges will not clear some of their clamps** Pressure is applied to the record by turning the clamp. Many incorporate a washer similar to the collet stlye and can be difficult to use. Many manufactures are moving away from this style and the collet design. 

• A record weight (The Bren1 is this design), has an unthreaded spindle hole in the bottom that simply fits over any spindle, threaded or unthreaded . It does not have to rely on a concave design to apply pressure weird science. A weight becomes part of the mass and is very easy to use, The Bren1 is this design. Do your records fit tightly? We offer a stocked custom honed option to fit on TT spindles that are slightly oversized

• Be careful there are very poor products out there with gimmicks such as: built in levels, strobe lights, tuning options and concaved bottoms .

• After using different clamps and seeing the high cost for good and bad clamps, I started a project to make my own and for a few for my friends that would be affordable and easy to use on any TT. It caught on!!  The Bren1, a balanced piece of art made on a CNC machine. Please try one !bren1recordclamp.com

• At the bottom of this page please click if this guide was helpful

       Improve the sound of vinyl                                                                            

ps: at the bottom of this page please click if this guide was helpful .

Footnotes: *VPI makes an unthreaded clamp too. **Dynavector 17D & 23R on Scoutmaster.

***The Michell clamp does not fit the Hydraulic Reference TT

Simple tips that won't cost anything.

• Balance your TT with a level. Use bags of sand with pieces of ceramic tile.

• Remove your dustcover during play. Want to leave it off? cut out a piece of cardboard the size of the mat and use it as a mat cover to keep off dust.

• Position your TT so that the tonearm is as far away as possible from another component, this may eliminate that mysterious hum.

• Stylus alignment: you can use a graph for overhang,(install link),  investigate VTA adjustment.

• Power: Make sure your equipment isn't on a circuit with a flourecent light, a  light with a dimmer or appliances. Try to only use one circuit. Avoid plugging component power in series "daisy chain" but if you have to start with the highest watt component first and work down. 

• Try not to cross your cables and interconnects. Don't have terminations on your speaker cables? Try "tinning" it's simply putting a bit of solder on on the ends 

• Clean those records! (a drop) of mild soap & distilled h2o & rinse w/distilled h2o. If you have a small garment steamer use distilled water and hold about four inches from record surface. Let dry at least 15 minutes before playing. Ok so there are other methods but this is no cost.

• Audiophile who has done it all? Disconnect your interconnects and cables (not your power cables) to let them drain, you'll notice an improvement until they get loaded up again.