Enamel on sterling silver charms are a wonderful way to add punches of color and whimsical accents to bracelets of mostly silver charms. Worn en masse on a charm bracelet, they create a virtual rainbow on the wrist.

A BRACELET OF VITREOUS GLASS KILN FIRED ENAMEL ON STERLING CHARMS

(AND ONE AMETHYST CHARM)

This guide is intended to answer the mysteries of those colorful silver charms you see on ebay. What types of enamel are used to decorate sterling charms? How is a charm enameled? How can I wear them?

TYPES OF ENAMEL

True enamel (or Vitreous Enamel) is a glassy substance produced from finely ground glass with colorant that is applied to metal in liquid form. The enamel is then bonded to the metal by firing in a kiln. Vitreous enamel is also called "glass fused" or "glass fired" enamel.

Historically, there have been four primary forms of glass enamel used in jewelry making:

• Cloisonne Enamel - Small cells of colored enamel separated by wire outlines affixed to the surface of the metal (often has a twisted appearance). Occasionally seen on new and vintage charms, especially those made in Asia.
• Champleve Enamel - Enamel is applied to metal on which the design has been outlined by cutting lines into the surface. Very occasionally seen on vintage charms.
• Guilloche Enamel - Translucent enamel is applied over a metal surface that has been machine engraved (often appears as tiny regular wavy lines in the metal surface). Often seen on vintge charms, especially Edwardian charms and fobs and charms from the 1940's. Sometimes further embellished with hand painted decoration atop a single color enamel ground.
• Plique a Jour Enamel - A backless trasnsparent or translucent enamel that resembles stained glass. Rarely used in charms due to its fragile nature.

OPAQUE VITREOUS ENAMEL

In the past few years, a new form of vitreous enamel has burst onto the charm scene. The materials and techniques employed represent a renaissance in American enamel art.

This opaque glass fused enamel creates remarkable depth of color, vibrancy and detail that sets it apart from traditional forms of glass enameling. Hand applied to sterling charms using tiny paintbrushes and picks, the enamel is then kiln fired to transform the colors and bond the enamel to the silver. Unlike guilloche or champleve enamel, this new vitreous enamel works well on figural charms decorated "in the round".

VITREOUS GLASS FUSED ENAMEL ON STERLING 3D HUMMINGBIRD CHARM

The process is exacting and great skill is required in both the painting and firing of these charms. When the colorant is applied, it is often not the finished color (as when glaze or slip is applied to pottery). The true color develops in the firing. And each charm may require several different applications of paint with corresponding re-firings to create layers of color, delicate shading and fine details.

PSUEDO-ENAMELS

Over the years, there have been alternative approaches to adding color to charms without the expense or expertise required for vitreous enameling.

• Cold Paint - As the name implies, cold paint decoration is an enamel paint that is applied to the metal "cold", without a firing process used to bond the substance. Often found in charms from the 1940's - 1960's, this form of decoration is very succeptible to chipping and wear.
• Resin Enamel - An epoxy or plastic resin based colorant which may or may not be fired. This type of "enamel" is not enamel at all. It is often seen on charms on ebay described as enameled. It is a great way to add color to charms, but should not be confused with true enamel. it may be useful to note that resin enamel is NOT found on vintage charms.

FIRED RESIN ENAMEL ON STERLING CHARM

HOW DO I KNOW WHAT TYPE OF ENAMEL IS USED ON A CHARM?

If you are buying on ebay and are unfamiliar with the types of enamel used for charm decoration, it is best to ask the seller. Reputable and reliable charm sellers will not hesitate to tell you which charms feature glass kiln-fired enamel and which have resin enamel.

HOW CAN I WEAR MY ENAMEL CHARMS?

Sterling and enamel charms make wonderful additions to traditional charm bracelets and are stunning as pendants! Worn singly on a necklace, they are sure to intrigue all who see them. Grouped together on a chain, they can tell a wonderful story.

Because the decoration on vitreous enamel charms is essentially glass, it may be best to avoid wearing your bracelet when performing tasks that expose the charms to repeated blows that might cause chipping. (For instance, we remove ours when working on the computer, washing dishes and the like.)

Some collectors prefer to space the charms out on their bracelets, giving "breathing room" for each. This allows each unique miniature work of art to stand out and also provides for protection against bumping. Others choose to dsiplay their collection of enamel on silver charms on necklaces, creating some real show stoppers.

WHICH CHARM TO SELECT?

Charms can be collected by theme. Consider favorite vacations, hobbies, or your occupation. Perhaps you want a cooking bracelet or a garden bracelet or a teacher's bracelet. Look around ebay - any theme is possible!

Charm bracelets can also be assembled to tell your life story. Every woman's bracelet will be different if the charms are collected to match their interests, achievements and favorite activites. In fact, one of the best things about starting a bracelet and collecting charms is that it creates a most unique and individual piece of jewelry. Many collectors start charm bracelets with the intention of handing them down to their daughters as family heirlooms.

BUY WHAT YOU LOVE!

Whatever method you employ to select your favorite charms from the myriad offered on ebay, buy what you love! You can't go wrong with a bracelet that rekindles special memories or makes you smile when you wear it.

Copyright © 2005.  This material may not be reproduced in any form, or linked to electronically, without the express written permission of the author.