Have you ever been tempted to purchase a vintage or antique sewing machine?   You may want a 11- pound, aptly named Singer featherweight to take to quilting workshops, or decide a heavyweight Pfaff 130-6 is just what you need for sewing miles of canvas or denim.  You may be fascinated by people-powered machines, i.e. handcranks or treadles, and like the way they sew as well as they way they look.  Most of all, you may be wishing for a good, sturdy sewing machine with all-metal parts, no plastic gears to break, and no computer boards to replace. 

So, where to start?  E-bay features everything from door stops to museum pieces when it comes to vintage and antique sewing machines.

First, decide why YOU want an antique or vintage sewing machine.  Some of my reasons include:

• I wanted a Singer 401 because I learned to sew on one 
• I like the reliability and simplicity of the metal-geared machines
• I can fix the non-electric ones myself by teaching myself
• I enjoy using a handcrank or treadle that's 103 years old and still sews a beautiful straight stitch
• I want a lightweight machine to take to quilting classes
• I don't want to haul my heavy, doesn't-like-bumps-computerized sewing machine to classes in 102-degree heat.

RESEARCH THE MACHINE BEFORE YOU BID!

The Smithsonian Institution trade library has an excellent on-line collection of many instruction manuals for older machines. It's a fabulous resource!   You'll be able to learn if the machine for auction is a coveted Singer featherweight, or a much heavier Singer 99, for example, and how to thread it, change the bobbin, etc. .   There are also several excellent websites - Needlebar or ISMACS -- no affiliation, yada, yada (NAYY).  Another one will show up in a Google searchfor TreadleOn.  Sorry, guide tip policy says no links outside of eBay, otherwise I would include them for your convenience.

One thing to keep in mind is the needle size a particular machine uses.  Most modern machines (and many of the older ones) take a standard 15x1 needle, widely available.  Some of the older handcrank and treadle machines use this size as well.  Some machines have very unusual, uncommon needles.  Others (like the Singer featherweight) take a standard 15x1 needle, but inserted differently.   

Research-wise, this would also be a good time to call your local sewing machine repairperson and see what they would charge for replacement needles, bobbins, feet and other accessories, and especially replacement parts (slide plate, foot pedal, spool pins, etc.) if they are needed.

How does the seller describe the machine?  They may say it is flawless, in excellent sewing condition and sews a beautiful stitch.  Or, they may say  -- see photos for condition and ask questions -- or they may say the plug is missing and anyway, they don't sew.   All tell me something different.  A sample of the stitching still in the machine tells me more. 

RESEARCH THE SELLER BEFORE YOU BID! 

Just as you would want to know a little about the dealer's reputation ifyou were buying a new machine, you'll want to look at the seller's feedback.  Have they sold machines before? Do they know how to pack one carefully?  If not, will they honor your polite request to double-box the machine and pack/ship it as you request?  Someone may be brand-new to selling on eBay and do an exceptional job of packing... or have 99% positive feedback, and this is the first machine they have sold -- and not quite "get it."  There are no absolutes. 

One thing I would recommend is to absolutely, positively agree on how a machine will be packed and how it will be shipped BEFORE bidding.  Politely ask the seller to confirm they will double-box the machine before you place your bid, not after, for example.   The same goes for making arrangements to pick up a machine if you have the winning bid at the end of the auction.  If you find out the seller's schedule won't mesh with yours to arrange a pickup till three weeks after the auction has closed, for example, you both will be frustrated.   

A related issue -- some sellers charge for their shipping and handling costs, and include a second, substantial charge for a mailing company to pack it.  Be sure to confirm that the total charges are what you expect for both the packing and shipping charges AND pack-to-ship charges.  These additional packing charges are often clearly stated way, way down a detailed and lengthy description.  Read carefully BEFORE bidding!     

Finally, look at the seller's feedback re packing and shipping.  Some sellers seem to think "handling charges" are the way to a better profit margin.  While I understand very well it takes time to wait in line at the post office, I don't intent to pay a seller $15 to do so (in addition to postage) to ship a small part for an older machine.  My recommendation is to avoid sellers with negative feedback for excessive handling charges.  If you really want that particular machine, come to an agreement BEFORE bidding via ebay e-mail so your agreement is documented in writing. 

Disassembling and packing a treadle sewing machine & cabinet and irons properly for safe shipping  however, is a long morning's hard work!  They deserve credit (and extra handling charges) where credit is due.  The same goes for the handcranks with the fragile wooden cases.  Packing either type is time consuming.    

 LOOK and READ BEFORE YOU BID!

 Is the listing a detailed one with lots of photos, or is the machine a dim blur?  Can you see if there is a tension spring, or a bobbin case, or missing parts?   Watch out for listings for electric machines that do not mention or show a foot pedal/control.   (Some electric machines have a knee lever in the cabinet that operates the tucked-away foot control. The point is to verify that it is included in the auction if you can't see one!)  

ASK QUESTIONS BEFORE YOU BID!   

Where did the machine come from?  Some common sources include the original owner, a family member of same, an estate sale, a garage sale, thrift store, consignment shop or a school district auction.

If the original owner is downsizing, you may be able to obtain a gently-used machine that's been well-loved and received good care.  However, the grandkids may have stuffed it full of BB shot when no one was looking, or played fix-it, too!  Treadle and handcrank machines are particularly susceptible to missing slide plates and/or bobbin cases and bobbins.  Moving parts have an almost magnetic attraction to curious fingers of all ages.  The plus here is you have an idea where the machine has been, and for how long.

The minus is that treadles are big and heavy and "in the way" and are often banished to damp basements or garages, or storage with extremes of heat and cold.  Look carefully at the treadle stand base to see if the bottom of the legs are rusted.   If a portable machine has a carry case, look at it.  If there are water marks on the carry case... the machine will likely have been water-compromised and have some rust challenges underneath the machine bed. When in doubt, ask to see an IN-FOCUS photo.  That same cycle of extreme heat and cold is also hard on wood cabinets.  If a listing has only one photo showing the machine in the cabinet, ask if the cabinet top has any scratches, chips or damage to the finish.  You may find out there's no veneer on the lid, or more common, plant pee -- where a potted plant on a closed cabinet was overwatered,leaving round white water stains in the finish. 

A big caution -- the older machines are generally VERY HEAVY, particularly those with wooden covers   These decorative covers were designed to keep dust and prying fingers away. NEVER NEVER (yes, I'm shouting so you won't damage your "new" machine or break bones in your foot when the handle pulls through fragile old wood between the packing box and your table, and the machine forcibly acknowledges that gravity ain't just a good idea, it's the law) NEVER carry the machine by the handle of the wooden cover.   

If the machine is from an estate sale, the seller may know a little bit about it, or nothing at all except what they see. Be polite, but don't be shy about asking for information, in-focus pictures, a shot of the FRONT of  the machine, or whatever else you want to know before you spend your money.

Another source would be a bricksn'mortar auction. A machine from a school auction may have been rode hard and put away wet, as the saying goes, or it may have been the teacher's pet and guarded like gold.  You have no way to know from afar.  A description that mentions only the machine's features and what's included will not tell you.  Look at the pictures carefully!   If a machine has a number engraved or in permanent ink on a prominent place, I'll wager it was used in a classroom. If there is a permanent tag that says (a name) ISD, that's the IndependentSchool District from whence it came.  

AGREE ON SHIPPING AND PACKING BEFORE YOU BID!

Likewise, READ the LISTING carefully.  I've seen auctions where the shipping and handling was, in my opinion, excessive for just a machine head -- double the ending high bid.    Do not question that packing a heavy machine carefully takes time, materials and is labor intensive... it is... but also get an idea of what's the fair average for S&H for the type of item on which you're bidding.  If it sounds way high or way low...ask questions before bidding.

 Do be respectful of the seller's time and read the listing carefully before asking questions that are already answered in the listing.

If you get an answer like "Idon have time" when you asked for a shot of the front of the machine...DON'T BID!

If the seller keeps promising to post photos that never appear...DON'T BID!

Speaking of the machine's features, always confirm that the power plug, motor and foot pedal work and are included for electric machines.   If the machine is missing one of these items, call your local repair shop and ask BEFORE you bid what they would charge for a replacement.  Then decide if you feel lucky.   A missing foot pedal can mean just a missing foot pedal... or it can mean the motor doesn't work,either!   Find out the seller's return/refund policy BEFORE bidding, and keep in mind your  shipping costs to return a sewing machine are not included in a refund of the purchase price. 

Remember never to take any wiring for granted.  If the machine does not have a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other) it is OLD.  The external electric cords may be in fine shape, because they may have been replaced separately.  However, the internal wiring on a 1931 machine with an internal motor just may need immediate replacement to be used safely...or not, depending on how it was stored and maintained.   When in doubt, don't be the "bzzzzt test dummy."  Have it checked by a professional after you purchase it. And yes, that costs money!  Factor it in on how much you want to pay for the machine BEFORE bidding. 

Another item to consider is the voltage of the motor.  Generally, machines made in Great Britain must either have the motor replaced with a 110V motor, or you will need to purchase an additional  transformer/adaptor.   For example, if you see a beautiful Singer featherweight up for auction and the seller mentions it was made in Great Britain (or just shows a photo of the backside of the machine with the motor model visible) it would be prudent for you to ask the motor's voltage BEFORE bidding.  Some machines made in Great Britain were imported specifically for the Canadian market, and have the 110V motor for North America.    European-made machines not imported specifically for the North American market  (i.e. a Bernina, Pfaff or Necchi , for example, brought back from Europe as part of a  family member's household goods) are also models where it is wise to confirm the motor is the correct voltage to use the machine in the U.S. without a transformer.  

For ALL machines, confirm that the shuttle or bobbin and the bobbin case are INCLUDED.   It's not uncommon for bobbin cases or shuttles to be accidentally misplaced for non-user sales.  If someone doesn't sew, they won't know what's supposed to be there. 

Beware for Singer 221/Featherweights and Singer 301 machines, though, as replacing a missing bobbin case is NOT cheap.  If the seller did not include a photo of the bobbin case, ASK to be certain it is included!!!

CONGRATULATIONS, YOU WON A TREADLE AUCTION!

 HOW DO YOU GET IT , YOU and your VEHICLE  HOME INTACT?  

I would suggest removing the machine head from the treadle stand/cabinet for transport.   There is nothing to support most models of machine heads in a cabinet except two hinge pins in back when the cabinet is laid flat, and it wasn't designed to be moved that way. 

It can be tempting to load a cabinet upright in an SUV or truck.  Please, for your safety, don't.  In the best scenario, just the machine and cabinet are broken if you have to slam on your brakes or swerve to avoid a child running into the road, or to miss someone else's blowout. Worst case is having 35 pounds of cast iron launch from the back of your vehicle through the cabinet, the seat and your windshield.  Remember it will not care if you or a family member's head is in the trajectory path. 

I like to bring along a piece of fabric that's folded over for at least a double thickness, then let the presser foot down gently on it.  This prevents an abrupt accidental dropping of the presesr foot on to the feed dogs.  I don't usually take the needle out of the machine, but I do disengage the needlebar/take up lever the same way as I'd do to fill a bobbin.  

I bring along an empty cooler, line it with towels and place the machine head in the cooler, on the floor  for transport, so it won't get banged or scratched.   Don't undo the hinges -- bring a flashlight and a small flat-head screwdriver and you should be able to reach inside the cabinet (check for spiders FIRST!) and just loosen the set screws enough from underneath to wiggle the head out when it is tipped back in the cabinet. DO bring several zip-loc bags for secure storage of the bobbin, bobbin case, and any loose bits.  Ifyou drop them in the cupholder of your car or your pocket, they WILL get bent or vanish on the way home.

NOW -- having said it's best to remove the machine head, I will tell you that's sometimes impossible and  I have the stubborn Pfaff 130 to prove it. In this case, I lower the machine INSIDE the treadle cabinet, then take a roll of plastic wrap out of the box (so the serrated edge won't scratch the cabinet finish or me) and start wrapping the cabinet so the drawers won't slide open and get nicked, and more important, so the treadle/cabinet lid or insert won't flop open or fall out or wack me in the head. I also take a piece of plastic wrap and tie it through the stand wheel on a treadle so it won't wiggle around while I'm moving it and catch my hand in the spokes (OW!). Plastic wrap will also tame a dangling, dragging foot pedal and cord for transport without any sticky mess from tape. NEVER USE TAPE TO SECURE A MACHINE HEAD OR CABINET.   Plastic wrap sticks to itself.  If you are moving, for example, and want even more security, then use the plastic wrap and finish with tape ONLY OVER THE PLASTIC WRAP. 

When you put the machine head back in the cabinet, get a large rubber band and stretch it over both of the hinge posts -- it aligns the darn things so you're not trying to juggle 35 pounds of machine head one-handed and coax the posts to slide back in the hinge slots in the back of the machine head with the other hand.

This review is under construction, so  I'll just keep adding.  You can e-mail me via eBay if you have additional suggestions or questions.  However, I won't tell you anything about a specific item in an active auction unless I am the seller.

 If you have questions on sewing-machine related topics, I'll be glad to try to point you in the right direction for answers.   If I don't know, I'll tell you that, too.   Good luck!

NOTES FOR SELLERS

If you're a seller and want me to research your machine for your listing, you'll need to arrange payment first.  (That should have eliminated all THOSE queries <grin> but since I am still getting them, I'll say it again -- GO TO THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION LIBRARY WEBSITE OR GOOGLE the make and model of your machine.)  I'm glad to help if you're stuck looking for information, but don't e-mail me if you won't start by doing your own Google search.   

IF YOU WANT TO KNOW THE VALUE OF A PARTICULAR MACHINE,  PAY FOR A PROFESSIONAL APPRAISAL.  If you do not wish to pay for a professional appraisal, take a look at what the same model, in the same cabinet, in the same condition, with the same accessories, has sold for in the recent past here on eBay.   This is not a solicitation to appraise your machine as I do not do not do not AM not an appraiser.