Buying a Sound System

    If your price range is between $750 and $2000, and you don’t really have a clue as to what you are looking for, or what all the numbers mean, here are some guidelines that you can use. The 5 in 5.1 is the number of separate channels inside the amplifier, the .1 in 5.1 means that a subwoofer (a speaker that plays only the very low sounds, and makes the floors and furniture vibrate) is used.
   Don't forget about a system for playing your music Cds. A 7 channel stereo sounds like a contradiction in terms, stereo usually means two. If you have never heard a normal CD played over a surround sound system in full 7.1 stereo mode, you haven’t experienced the full potential of the music. CDs are recorded in 4 channels to begin with and it’s easy for the computer in the system to separate out the remaining channels. “Stairway to Heaven” or almost any Mannheim Steam Roller song in 7.1 will bring a tear to your eye. You can put together a $2000 7.1 channel stereo that will put a $15000 2 channel system to shame. A 5.1, 7.1 or whatever, is basically the same thing as a surround sound system that you would use with a HDTV. For listening only, (no TV), all you need to look for in an amplifier or receiver is a setting for 5.1, 6.1 7.1 etc. Stereo Mode.
    Now for AV (Audio/Video) Surround Sound systems. Receivers or amplifiers, (receivers pick up AM/FM signals, amplifiers don’t), are the heart and soul of a sound system. They are basically a computer with a series of amplifiers inside them (5, 6, 7 or even 9 for surround sound systems). Remember that 286 computer that you bought years back that will no longer support today’s software? Well your AV Receiver has a computer in it also. Some of the models from the 1990s are already becoming out dated. Many of today’s DVDs and TV channels are presented in either: Dolby Digital EX, DTS-ES, DTS 96/24, Pro Logic IIx, and DTS Neo:6. If your receiver is incapable of processing those codes, than you will be missing some of the special affects in the recordings. Dolby Digital EX is a second generation to Dolby Digital just as Pro Logic IIx is a newer generation to both Pro Logic and Pro Logic II.  Assuming that the receiver that you are purchasing will probably be outdated long before it stops working; spending a fortune on a multi channel receiver may not be the way to go. You can get a very nice one for under $400. I strongly recommend that you look for an amplifier that is capable of adjusting the frequency, volume and speaker delay internally. They always come with a set-up microphone. You plug in the mic. and the system plays a series of clicks and pops. The computer inside the unit knows the sounds that it sent out to the speakers, so it will simply make the necessary adjustments so that what it sent out, is what it is getting back through the mic. It's very cool, and a must for a good multi-channel sound. It can compensate for flaws or weaknesses in the speakers (with in reason) along with the huge range of audio problems that are caused by the shape of the room and the contents inside it.

Amplifier Specs:
    Frequency Response: The best that a human ear can process is 20 to 20,000 Hz. For most, it’s more like to 35 to 18K Hz. Ratings outside this range are pretty much for bragging rights only.
    THD (Thermal Harmonic Distortion (distortion cause by heat)): If there is no number to the left of the decimal point, you are not going to hear any distortion. Ratings under 1.0 are for bragging rights only. You might even get away with adding a simple cooling fan to reduce the THD.
    Power Ratings: (nothing more than the ability to produce volume). The best number to look at is watts in RMS (Root Mean Squared). Just like a higher watt light bulb is brighter, for sound, more watts mean more volume capability. Numbers like peak power are pretty much bogus. No one cares if your subwoofer will handle 2000 watts of peak power if:, #1 your amp can’t possibly produce that kind of power, and #2 that 2000 watt rating is for a 1 milisecond sound burst which is often followed by a popping sound and smoke. If you have at least two (stereo) speakers with 8 inch woofers or more in them, the chances of you using more than 50 watts RMS of power without having someone calling the police on you, would be rare.
    I have a 7.1 system with 120 RMS per channel, and a sound level (dbl) meter. Less than half way (appox. 60 RMS per ch.) on the volume dial is 115 dbl. Your immediate response is to put your fingers in your ears at that level. Don’t be overly impressed with an amp just because it that has 120 watts of power when the amp with 80 watts is inside your budget. Remember that anything you buy now will probably have outdated processing capabilities within the next 5 years or so, just like your “new” laptop computer.
    If you want to be impressed by any one number, look at the weight of the unit. Yes, the best way to buy sound equipment is by the pound. That also goes for speakers, CD and DVD players. The heavier the unit, the better built it is. The latest and greatest 9.1 AV Receivers weigh in excess of 90 lbs. and costs about $9000. You would be best to pass over a 5.1 or a 7.1 that weights less than 18 lbs. It probably will run very hot (because of the inadequate amount of heat sinks) and for not for very long. It will also probably have a lot of THD.
    Another good thing to look for is the quality in the connectors that the unit has. A plastic push-pin connector (you push down on the spring loaded lever, push in the wire and let go of the lever) on a speaker or a receiver’s speaker connector, is a dead give away to system’s quality. If they use a cheap component that you can see from the outside, imagine how they are cutting manufacturing costs inside the unit. Look for the banana or binding post speaker connectors (connector with a thumb screw), plastic knobs are OK, metal is much better. On a receiver, look for digital inputs and/or outputs. No digital is probably a lesser quality. Even if you don’t use the digital hook ups now, you might in the future and digital means a certain level of complexity. Another thing to look for is THX and THXII certification. You’re probably not going to find it in a receiver under $350.00. THX means that the amplifier has to meet a certain level of performance and have the ability to reproduce sound with a pretty high degree of accuracy. THX certification takes the guess work out of buying an amplifier. THX – good, no THX may still be good – maybe not. I have yet to hear of a THX certified receiver with: no digital outputs, cheap (other than binding post) speaker connectors or that weighs less than 30 lbs.
    If you already have a DVD player, you don’t need a CD player. The technology is the same in both but the DVD player is capable of reading multi channel devices were as the CD player can read only two channel devises.
    Price and feature comparison is the key. I put together a 7.2 channel (2 sub-woofers) sound system that has a bi-amped (pair) of Pioneer 1015 THXII certified, 120 RMS per channel receivers (a tad over 2000 RMS), along with (2) JBL E100s and (5) JBL E-90s, 2 front firing (speaker faces forward instead of down at the floor) subwoofers, a 2 channel subwoofer amp, a DVD player and 165 feet of speaker wire for under $2000. Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price on my system is over $8000 and the high end stereo shops wanted over $6500 for the same system. It took me six months of research, and shopping for the best prices, to put the system together and I had a blast doing it.

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