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Buying a lens for your 35mm manual focus camera.

by: joewest2000( 1703Feedback score is 1000 to 4,999) Top 1000 Reviewer
66 out of 71 people found this guide helpful.
Guide viewed: 4764 times Tags: manual focus | lens | 35mm | lens guide | buying


This guide will help you determine the kind of lens you should buy for your 35mm manual focus camera and some things to look for when purchasing such a lens.

What kind of lens do you need?

If you get just one lens for your 35mm manual focus camera, it's a good idea to have one with a focal length of about 50mm. This focal length recreates pretty much what the eye sees. Shorter focal lengths like 28mm will make things appear farther away but you will get more of the scene in your shot. Greater focal lengths will get you closer to your subject but you will have less of the scene in your shot. Below are 8 photos I took all from the exact same location with lenses of various focal lengths.


 
It really depends on your needs, but it's nice to have a variety of focal lengths to work with. Like I mentioned above, if you are only going to have one lens, I would go with the 50mm. But if you have room in your bag (and in your budget), it's nice to have a wide angle lens like the 28mm, a 135mm portrait lens and a good zoom lens around 70-210mm. It's also nice to have a 2X converter which will double the focal length of a lens when placed between that lens and the camera body. A 2X converter was used along with a Sigma 600mm mirror lens to take the 1,200mm photo above.

I really like the Sigma 600mm which is a nice manual focus lens made for several different camera brands. The 600mm and 1,200mm shot of the palm tree above was taken with a 600mm Sigma lens. Shop carefully and you can find one for your camera on eBay for $150.00 or less. But understand that using a long focal length will likely require the use of a tripod to keep the camera steady. This is because the longer the focal length, the more light the lens needs and the longer the shutter has to stay open. If you shake the camera while the shutter is open you get a blurry picture.
 

Sigma also makes some great super-wide angle lenses around the 18mm-35mm focal range. I've had a couple of these and they were a lot of fun to use. The photo of the 1958 Corvette above was taken with a Sigma 18-35mm wide angle zoom at 18mm. I was standing literally inches from the bumper yet the entire car appears in the shot.


 
And if you really want to have some fun, get a macro lens or the macro focusing 2X tele-converter made by Vivitar. It will let you take superb close-ups. I used a Vivitar macro focusing 2X tele-converter to take the photo of the Lady Bug above. 

Generally speaking, if you are buying a Nikon camera, Nikon lenses will be among the best and cost the most. If you are buying a Minolta camera, Minolta lenses are among the best and will cost the most. Likewise, if purchasing a Canon camera... you guessed it... Canon lenses will be among the best and will cost the most. A couple other lens brands that I trust are Vivitar and Sigma. There are no doubt many other great lens manufacturers but I have had good experience with Vivitar and Sigma.

Always be sure the lens you are buying will fit the camera you are buying it for.  Just because it's a Nikon lens doesn't mean it will fit your Nikon camera. The same goes for other brands. You will have to do a little research to be sure a lens fits a particular kind of camera. This is why it's sometimes nice to purchase a camera that includes several lenses that you know fit that camera.
 

What should you look out for when purchasing a lens?

Once you know what kind of lens you want, read the sellers description carefully and see if you can find the answers to these questions:
1: Is the glass free of scratches, chips or swirl marks?
2: Is the inside the lens free of dust & fungus?
3: What is the condition of the outer body?
4: What is the condition of the aperture?
5: Does the lens include a lens cap and end cap?
 

1: Is the glass free of scratches, cracks or swirl marks?

Try to determine from the item description if the glass is free of scratches, chips or swirl marks. These can cause deformities and uneven lighting in your photos. It's usually pretty difficult to determine this from photos of the lens so be sure the seller mentions it in the description. If not, be sure to ask.

2: Is the inside of the lens free of dust and fungus?

Some older lenses accumulate dust internally and while a few specs does not usually present a problem, extreme cases can affect photo quality. In some moist climates, fungus can form and grow inside a lens. Again, minor cases do not usually present a problem but some lenses can become so clouded with fungus it will cause photos to look hazy and dark.

3: What is the condition of the outer body?

Minor paint loss and scratches on the outer body of a lens will not be a major problem. But dents can affect performance. Especially with a zoom lens which has to move. A dent may restrict movement. And dents around the filter ring can make it difficult if not impossible to screw a filter into place. Always try to determine if the lens body is free of dents. If you can't tell from the description, ask the seller.  

4: What is the condition of the aperture?

Most lenses have an adjustable aperture or f-stop. This controls the amount of light through the lens. This should move freely and be snappy. Aperture blades, which are visible inside the lens when the aperture is open and shut, should be free of oil and residue.

5: Does the lens include a lens cap and end cap?

A lens that does not include a lens cap and an end cap may be a sign the lens has not been taken care of. Lens caps and end caps protect the optics when the lens is not mounted on a camera. If no caps are included, be sure to get answers to all the questions above, either from the item description or from the seller.
 
I hope this helps. If you find this guide helpful, please click 'YES' below. Thank you!

Guide ID: 10000000001672864Guide created: 08/26/06 (updated 08/29/08)

 
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