VoodooRada's Guide to Buying a Bicycle

This is a brief guide on how to choose the right type of bicycle by educating the buyer about different bicycle types, frame materials, and drivetrain component choices.

Purchasing a bicycle can be a daunting task for many people.  Most assume it's a fairly simple process, until they start to do a little research.  Then they find out what a large selection of bikes,  frame materials, components, and other variables there are to choose from.  To top it off, they discover that a decent bike sells for $500 or more, with prices running into the thousands.  So if you're in the market for a bike, new or used, here is a quick and hopefully simple guide to get you started.

Figure it Out

First and foremost you must decide what type of riding you will be doing with the bike.  Some people want a bike that can do it all.  While there are a few bikes that can cover many different types of riding, there aren't any that will do them all equally well.  Mountain bikes (aka Hardtails) are made for off-road, Downhill/Freeride bikes are full-suspension mountain bikes made for racing down mountain-sides, and Road bikes are made for burning up the pavement.  Cyclocross bikes are road bikes with mountain gearing and beefier tires, and Comfort/Hybrid bikes usually stick to bike paths and city sidewalks.  There are other types of bikes (recumbent for example) but we will focus on a basic few for this guide.

       Road bike - courtesy of Trek bikes

Think about where you will be riding this bike and what you enjoy most.  A road bike (pictured above) is a great way to hit the backroads and crank out long distances at higher speeds than most bikes would allow.  They are sleek and fast, and not as fragile as they seem rolling on those skinny tires.  But some people do not find them comfortable because of the aerodynamic position they put your body into.  This can be adjusted and alleviated somewhat with proper fit, but a road bike is what it is...made to take you further, faster.

   Mountain bike - courtesy of Trek bikes

But maybe you enjoy the woods.  You'd like to bomb down tight singletrack (narrow paths) through the forest, ride the slickrock of Moab, or simply take your bike down the thousands of miles of fire roads found all across this country.  You would probably choose a hardtail mountain bike (pictured above).  These bikes have front suspension forks, and rigid tails.  They are the best choice for all-around mountain bike riding.  A lot of people choose full-suspension bikes for basic riding, and this is a mistake.  While full-suspension bikes have their place, they add unnecessary weight and are not as effecient to pedal, due to the frame "bobbing" with each pedal stroke (when you pedal, the rear end "bobs" down and up again on the rear suspension, which absorbs some of your pedaling energy instead of transferring it directly to the rear wheel).

   Downhill/Freeride bike - courtesy of Motobecane bikes

However, if you think you'd like to dress up in full plastic armor, take your bike to the top of a mountain, and scream down the hillside dropping off ledges and boulders, then a full-suspension freeride bike (pictured above) might just be what you're looking for.  The full-suspension soaks up the drops so your frame doesn't absorb them, and more importantly, neither does your body.  These bikes have larger frames, larger forks, and larger tires.  Everything is built oversized to handle the punishment of downhill use, and they usually come with disc brakes (much like a car) for greater stopping power.

   Cyclocross bike - courtesy of Fuji bikes

Some people want the best of both worlds, and this is when they look at a cyclocross bike (pictured above).  These are bikes that feature frame geometry, drivetrain components, and wheel size of a road bike, but have mountain gearing (larger rear cassette), beefier tires to handle light off-road use, and cantilever brakes for better stopping power in the dirt.  Since these bikes feature no suspension and can now be purchased with carbon fiber front forks they are not made to handle the abuse that mountain bikes can take.  But they are made to race off-road and can definitely be put through the paces.

So you've decided what type of riding you want to do, congratulations!  Now you just have to choose a bike (evil grin)!  Slow down there partner, because it's not that easy.  Walk into a bike store and you will be overwhelmed with the product selection, and the salesman will lay so many fancy words on you your head will spin. 

First know that bike prices are dependent on two main variables: the frame material, and most of all, the drivetrain component quality.  Drivetrains components are the shifter/brake levers, front and rear derailleurs, front and rear brakes, crankset, rear cassette, bottom bracket, and chain.  As far as frames go, bikes are generally made from 4 material types these days.  I will list these and their advantages and disadvantages below.  If you're interested in doing a bit more research on the subject, Sheldon Brown offers a nice breakdown and some good advice on his website.  Google him and you will find a ton of old-school advice.

Frame Materials:

• Aluminum - the most common frame material these days because it is inexpensive, lightweight, and strong when built properly.  If you see a bike with really fat tubes, it is more than likely aluminum.  Aluminum is very stiff, which is great for racing but hard on recreational riders because it can beat you up a little over a long ride or a rough road.  The downside to aluminum is that it fatigues during its life and will eventually fail.  Aluminum cannot be repaired when it fails.
• Steel - probably the second most popular frame material.  The great all-around material, steel can be heavy or light, strong or weak depending on the quality.  The basic steel is called Cro-moly.  These are heavy tubes but relatively strong.  The best steel tubes (like Reynolds 853) are light and super-strong.  They also "flex" a little when riding so the frame absorbs some of the harshness of the road.  A lot of people prefer good steel to any other material.  Steel can be welded and is fairly easy to repair.
• Titanium - stronger than steel, and lighter too.  And with their high-polish finishes, how can you go wrong?  While it's true that titanium is stronger, it has to be made into larger tubing than steel so that it isn't too flexy, thus increasing the weight a bit.  The major downside to titanium frames is that they are very expensive.  These frames have a different ride feel than aluminum or steel, so try it before you buy it.  Titanium can be repaired in certain situations by highly skilled people, but it's not practical.
• Carbon fiber - yes, they actually make entire bike frames and many components out of carbon fiber.  It's much stronger than people think, and very stiff so they make great racing bikes.  Carbon frames are very light too, so most high-end bikes are made of this stuff.  However, once they are damaged from a crash or other mishap, they can be very difficult if not impossible to repair.  This can be costly and probably not worth the time and effort involved, although minor damage is possible to repair.
  

On to the Drivetrain

Now that you know the major frame materials, you can start to decide which type might suit you best.  With that out of the way, you must now focus on your drivetrain components.  These will determine the biggest cost of the bike.  Most bikes come with components from three major manufacturers.  For road-type bikes it will be Shimano or Campagnolo (just say "Campy"), and for mountain bikes it will be either Shimano or Sram (say "Shram").  Shimano is a huge Japanese company that makes components for both road and mountain bikes.  They make stuff found on Wal-Mart bikes all the way up to the bikes that Lance Armstrong rides.  Campagnolo is an Italian component maker with a beautiful old history and is found mostly on high-end european bikes.  For this article I will simply discuss the main two for road bikes, Shimano and Campy, and tell you a little about their nicer drivetrains.

Shimano has a lot of different component lines, but we'll only look at their top 5 since that's what you'll find in most bike stores.  The most basic component group they make is called Sora.  You will find Sora components mostly on $300 to $500 bikes.  Sora is an eight-speed drivetrain (eight cogs on the rear cassette) and is only compatible with eight-speed components.  The Sora shifters and derailleurs will not work with nine-speed components, so they are not interchangeable.  Sora is a decent group, but not as refined as its more expensive brethren.  It also features a thumb-shift lever, while all others in the Shimano line feature finger levers.

Next up in the Shimano group is Tiagra.  This is my recommendation for an entry-level component group.  Tiagra is nine-speed, so you can upgrade the components at any time with other Shimano products.  For example, you could have Tiagra shifters and replace the rear derailleur with an Ultegra model and it would work fine.  Tiagra is fairly light and has a decent feeling with shifting, but still lacks the refinement of upper-level Shimano. 

Shimano's next step up from Tiagra is called 105.  The 105 component group is the most common group found on bikes for more-than-casual riders and aspiring racers.  This nine-speed group features slicker shifting and a better feel than the lower component grades.  105 is also a bit lighter than Tiagra or Sora and can be found in a nice shade of black instead of the usual silver color. 

If you really want the good stuff, look for Shimano's next level up, called Ultegra.  Ultegra features light weight, crisp, responsive shifting, and flawless performance.  Traditionally a nine-speed group, Ultegra is now available in ten-speed configuration as well which is a new trend in the bike market.  Nine-speed drivetrains are not compatible with ten-speeds, so purchase accordingly.  (Side note:  when I say nine-speed or ten-speed, I mean the rear cassette has nine or ten cogs on it.  The actual "speed" of the bike depends on whether you have a double or triple crankset up front.  If you have a triple crankset up front, which has three rings, and a nine-speed cassette in the back, then you have a bike that has 27 speeds).  Purchase Ultegra if you want to race your bike or simply want to have some of the best-shifting drivetrain components available.

   Ultegra 10-speed component group - courtesy of Shimano

Now for Shimano's cream of the crop.  Their top of the line component group is called DuraAce.  Some people call it "DoYouRace" because they think if you're not racing professionally, then you don't need DuraAce.  It's exotic, ultra-light, and shifts without hesitation; it will also cost you a small fortune, especially if you go with the new ten-speed DuraAce.  DuraAce shifters alone cost more than some low-end bikes, but if you want the best that Shimano offers then this is it.

Campagnolo also has a large and varied component line, and is usually found on european bikes such as Bianchi, De Rosa, and Colnago, along with others.  While I do not personally know as much about Campagnolo lines as I do Shimano, I know that they are similar in price and quality (probably a half-step up in both cases).  Campy also has 5 basic groups, and I can outline those for you.  I will start in the same order as I did Shimano, from their lowest to highest (or best) group.

Campy's low-end group in called Mirage.  However, unlike Sora's eight-speed only configuration the Mirage line starts at nine-speed, allowing you to easily upgrade components at any time.  Mirage is very similar to Sora, but a little nicer for being a low-end component.

The next step up from that is Veloce.  Veloce is a ten-speed group that features many different configurations depending on your particular needs. 

Centaur, Campy's group that would compete with 105, is also a ten-speed group. 

Here's where Campy really starts to seperate itself from Shimano.  The next level up from Centaur is called Chorus, and this ten-speed group features sleek carbon fiber shift/brake levers and a carbon rear derailleur.  Talk about exotic.  Chorus is a beautiful drivetrain and is worthy of any high-end bike.

  Chorus 10-speed component group - courtesy of Campagnolo

And that brings us to Campy's top o' the line stuff: Record.  This stuff is light and beautiful.  It features carbon fiber front and rear derailleurs, headset, crankset, and shifters.  Very light, very expensive.  Put this stuff on your bike if you are a sponsored pro or have a LOT of money to spend.  This is a ten-speed group and showcases the best that Campagnolo has to offer.

Wrap it Up

I hope I've given you some idea of where to begin when you start shopping for a bicycle.  There are other things to consider as well, such as the brand of the other components that make up your bike, like the stem, handlebars, seatpost, saddle, and most importantly, the wheelset.  Do your research and shop around.  Don't get caught up in the hype of the latest trends, but find what has worked for a long time and is still around; you can't go wrong with the tried and true.

Find a reputable shop that doesn't just want your money, but wants your business for life.  A good shop will take the time to find out what type of bike you are looking for, what kind of money you want to spend, and then make sure that they fit you properly and to your satisfaction. 

I will try to write a couple more guides to address specific needs.  A road bike buying guide and a mountain bike buying guide with more detailed information are in the works, as well as information you need when purchasing a used bike such as here on Ebay. 

Good luck in your pursuit of your dream bike.  Don't be in a hurry, because the right bike will provide years of good service, recreation, and pure enjoyment.  Happy Riding!

-VoodooRada