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Buying Retro Games and Consoles
Introduction
This guide was created to give advice in selling, buying, and caring for used and
retro games and consoles from eBay. There are many things to consider
when doing so, and I hope this guide helps in making a confident
purchase.
Buying Used Games
It can be a bit scary buying a product you can't examine from someone you can't see face-to-face, sometimes living across the world. But it can be especially troublesome in certain cases. Especially with games. When you order Snatcher, you want to know that this rare peice of history is going to work flawlessly when you put it into your Sega CD and boot it up. Here's a few things to keep in mind:Testing
When looking at a seller's page, make sure the words "tested and works" is in the text somewhere. Be wary of all
items that the seller did not test before they put it up for auction.
Sometimes though, a seller can be either careless and/or new to eBay
and might not have remembered to put that information on the page. If
this is the case, always contact the seller before buying.
This is true when buying most anything on eBay. Sometimes the seller
even states that the game does not work. In certain cases this is
reversible, but make sure you know you are buying a game that does not
work, and always look to see if the seller tested the game before you commit to buy.
Case/Manual
This doesn't matter to some buyers, but it's
always an added bonus if the game comes with a manual and case. For
instance, when purchasing a Genesis/Megadrive game, it's an added bonus that the manual and game are secure, contained,
and away from any outside dangers, like dogs, coffee spills, etc. But sometimes a seller asks and
additional amount (as compared to other auctions for the same item) for
their game. It can be an additional 2 dollars to 50 dollars, depending on the
rarity of the game.
It's up to you to establish your buying needs as
either a collector or a gamer. Collectors will want a case and a manual
to be in good condition because, as stated earlier, the price can go up
astronomically if the case and manual are present. If you're a gamer
who just wants to play a good game, you might not want to opt for the
extra amount.
In case you want the protection of a case, but don't
want to pay extra for it, remember that most CD or DVD media can
be placed in a normal CD case, or even a replacement DVD case. For cartridge games, it's a little bit
tougher, but keep in mind that most cartridge games will last outside
of a case for a lot longer period and still function.
Region
Remember to check the region of the game before you buy.
In most cases the page will have some indication of the region, and if
it doesn't, ask the seller. If the game is of another region and you
still want it, make sure your system is compatible with the game. But
most often, the Japanese version of Puzzle Bobble 2 will not work on your U.S.
NTSC Sega Saturn. Workarounds can be found for certain disc-based
systems, like the Dreamcast, but this is rare and doesn't always work.
Sealing
This has been covered in other guides, but I
think it is important to mention it breifly here. Sometimes a seller
will advertise the game as *SEALED*.
Beware of this as well. Sometimes the games have been opened, played,
and resealed with a homemade sealer, and then advertised as *SEALED* to
indicate that it's brand new. If you want to make sure the game has
been sealed somewhere other than someone's home, then look for
something akin to 'factory sealed'. If you truly want a game untouched by human hands, and you are unsure of wether or not the game was played, ask the seller.
Price
Remember that eBay is a changing marketplace. A search for "Alex Kidd in Shinobi World" today could come up with four results, whereas three days from now there could be ten results. The lesson here is not to pay more for something you think you'll never find again. Remember that games are not artifacts, there have been at least a few thousand or more reprintings of each game you want. You're not buying a unique peice of art. Think about the value of the game to you, and think about your options before you buy. It's always an option to wait a few days, see how people react, and then jump in if you find it necessary.
Buy It Now! Vs. Bidding
With games that aren't particularly rare and are selling for less, a Buy It Now
purchase would make sense, especially if the beginning auction price is
one or two US dollars less. For more rare games, the price given for Buy It Now
is usually much more than the auction price. Keep in mind that auctions can get
out of hand, and sometimes you can find yourself bidding on a game for
more than the Buy It Now original price. It's ultimately up to you to make that decision so you are confident and happy with the price you paid.
Stock Photos
Be wary of any item you can't see. Some sellers
won't take a picture of the game before they send it to you, and this
can be quite dangerous. Make sure that the picture is of the game case
and not just a scan of the manual, and look out for the words "Stock
Photo" below the picture of the item.
Above is a stock photo. It certainly looks pretty, but you can't see, at all, the condition of the game.
This is a perfect photo, showing the entire package. Personally, I'd feel more comfortable bidding on this item.
Caring for Your Games
Sometimes you buy a game that the seller said
they had tested, and when you plug it into your Sega 32X at home the game
glitches and doesn't work. Here are some things you can do before
emailing the seller.
Cartridge Games
Any cartridge game can be cleaned. The contacts
on the bottom of the cartridge collect dust, and the metal oxidizes over time. Simply rub the contacts down with a pink eraser,
and most of the grime will come off. If this alone does not satisfy,
you can always get out your rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab and swab
the contacts down. Just make sure the alcohol doesn't seep into the
casing of the cartridge, and that the alcohol is evaporated before you
play the game. If none of this works, contact the seller and work something out with them.
Disc Games
Surprisingly, fogging up a disc with your breath and running some cotton over some blemishes on a disc is bad for it. If you have a disc that can't be repaired, and doesn't seem to work in the system it's for, then look for a games store or movie store with a buffer. Some outlets will do a professional buffing of your disc for you for a small charge. You can also purchase your own buffer.
Keep them Safe!
As always, everything electronic can't stand direct sunlight or extreme heat or cold for an extended amout of time. Make sure that ALL of your disc games have some sort of cover in order to keep them away from harm, and keep all cartridge games away from water. Set up a gaming tower, or invest in some plastic containers to keep them in a 'cool, dry place'.
Buying Used Consoles
The amazing history of video gaming is at your fingertips! But if you're not careful, you might get burned. There are many factors involved in choosing the right seller and item for your needs.
Testing
Much like when buying a used game, make sure the system has been tested and is in complete working order before you commit to buy. Many sellers will state; 'I haven't been able to test it before I put it to auction, but it worked the last time I had it out, which was four years ago.' Be careful of this, because you might get a defunct unit. Also, always make sure the auction page has at least something connoting how the system works. If there is any doubt in your mind as to the working condition of the unit, contact the seller. And, as always, never leave feedback for a unit you haven't tested first.
Cosmetic Condition
With many of these topics, this is ultimately up to the buyer. If you are a serious collector you might want to consider this when buying the console, simply because a better looking unit is worth more. But if the unit has been tested and works fine, it may not matter to you wether or not it has a few scratches on the casing. It's up to you.
Box/Manual
Sometimes a seller will advertise that the console/handheld is in its original box, and/or including the manual. While this is ideal for collectors, it is in no way evident of the condidion of the unit. Some buyers automatically beleive that if the seller kept the box, they must've taken care of the console. This is not correct in many situations. Make sure the console has been tested, and if it matters to you, has a good cosmetic condition before you bid. Another thing to note about the box/manual is that it can kick up the price of the item, sometimes up to three times what the system would be without the box. It is up to you wether or not having these extras is essential for your satisfaction.
Region
Many gamers wish to expand their library of games by buying a console from another country. This is okay, so long as you know you're doing it. Make sure the console you intend to buy is for the region you want. One thing to keep in mind is that when buying a console that's not your region, the power requirements might not match up. Be sure you're buying a console that can have interchangeable power adapters, or be sure to buy a universal power converter to ensure compatibility.
Price
Never pay too much! If you think you've found a deal, wait to commit until you've taken a look around to see what other sellers and buyers are doing. Also, with buying more hard-to-find consoles, like a Sega Nomad, you might think that you've struck gold and bid automatically. Stop. Think. Review your options, and if the auction has a few days to end, wait to bid until the last day or so, just to see what else is out there.
Buy It Now! Vs. Bidding
Buy It Now can be a very good tool for ensuring you get the price you want. If the price is reasonable, there shouldn't be a problem with this option. Just remember that auctions can get competitive out of hand, and you could end up paying much more for something that was originally less with the Buy It Now option.
Pictures
With retro consoles, there's not much to worry about in the line of deceiving pictures. Very few sellers use a stock photo for a console picture, but always be wary of items that you can't see. If there are any questions or doubts about an item, ask the seller.
Caring for your Console
Make sure your investment lasts as long as you do, so you can enjoy great gaming in the years to come.Surge Protector
This is perhaps the best investment to ensure that something doesn't go wrong. With many of the older systems, a simple AC adaptor cannot withstand minor surges caused by power outages, resulting in a popped fuse, a failed power supply, or even a failed mainboard. This is the first care item on your list! It is very important.
Cleaning
Many catridge-based consoles had a self-cleaner catridge made for them, these are number two on your care list. Most of the top-loader cartridge-based consoles are fairly easy to clean. Much like with cartridge games, you might be able to eliminate the oxidation by rubbing an eraser on the contacts, but several systems, like the Genesis, are difficult to do so because the contacts for the system are pressed together. That's why a cleaner cartidge is almost necessary.
With disc based consoles, it's a similar story. CD lens cleaner discs will brush off any residue on the lens, and should help the console. In case you've never seen a CD player before, never touch the lens inside the game system.
Storage
I certainly hope that your retro console won't be immediately boxed and put into the closet, but just in case a Playstation fan comes over and you need to hide your Saturn to avoid debates, here's a few tips. Keep the package that the game was shipped in. If the seller is nice, they'll bundle up the console quite nicely with bubble wrap. If this is the case, just wrap the console back up again, grab some rubber bands to hold it all in, and, presto! If the seller didn't ship the console very well, just be sure to store the console in a cool, dry place and in a box to keep the dust out.
Console Specific
Sega Genesis
Sega's most successful console is very hardy, in any incarnation. I have never encountered a Genesis that doesn't work (that doesn't meant they don't exist though ;))Model 1 vs. Model 2
Model 1 Sega Geneses are the first batch of consoles from Sega's 16-bit era. Nothing essential differs from the Model 1 Genesis and the Model 2 Genesis except that they look very different and the Model 2 does not have a headphone port and volume control on the front of the system.
The above picture is a Model 1 Genesis, with the headphone port and volume control on the front.
This is a Sega Genesis Model 2.
Genesis 3
As a side note, I must mention the Genesis 3. These Geneses were designed to be the ultra-slim version of the Genesis, without the capability of addons. This is about a 7/10 on the "rarity scale", so expect to pay more for these models than any other. Just keep in mind, you cannot make use of Sega's brilliant Genesis addons with just a Genesis 3. Also, compatibility issues have arisen, but rest assured, you'll be able to play all the popular titles without a problem.
Care
As I mentioned earlier, I've never encountered a Genesis that doesn't work. Just be sure that you have a surge protector, and a cleaning cartridge to keep things going.
Sega CD
Sega's first major failure. Despite that fact, there are many reasons to pick this up, and while you're looking, keep some of this in mind:
Model 1 vs. Model 2
Cosmetics:Why did Sega have to confuse us all? There are 2 different models of Sega CD available, and they each coincide with the visual style of the model of Genesis they resemble. Other than that, there are a few differences between the two models. Model 1 Sega CDs are a front-loader (which means that the units have a CD tray) they have no buttons, and they fit underneath the Genesis. Model 2 Sega CDs have a top-loader (much like a portable CD player), they have an 'open' button, and they rest beside the Genesis. The Model 1 looks beautiful underneath a Model 1 Genesis, but doesn't look so smart underneath a Model 2 Genesis. Likewise with the Model 2 Sega CD; it fits perfectly below a Model 2 Genesis, but looks awkward below a Model 1 Genesis.
This is a Model 1 Sega CD under a Model 1 Genesis. Pretty.
This is a Model 2 Sega CD under a Model 2 Genesis. Gorgeous.
Functionality:
Another way these two models differ is that the Model 2 Sega CDs seem to be more reliable. They don't have as many moving parts, and instead of being controlled via software (in order to open and close a Model 1's disc drive, you have to reset the console and press start) instead of just pushing an open button. Keep in mind that when you buy a Model 1, it may not work a week later.
Other Models
While hard to find, there are two other models of the Sega CD that are a combination of a Sega CD and a Genesis. These are the CDX and the X'Eye. Expect to pay north of $100 USD to get your paws on these.
Care
The contacts on the Genesis that allow it to be linked to the Sega CD accumulate dust and grime. Like any cartridge game, rub off the grime with an eraser. Usually this isn't a problem, though, as unopened Genesis chasis usually have a green protector over these contacts. One thing not to do with a Model 2 is to stop the disc in motion. If you want to exit the game, and open the disc drive, the disc will still be spinning. If you physically stop it, this can cause motor problems and shorten the life of your console.
More to come!
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