The People's Princess vinyl portrait doll by the Franklin Mint is by far one of the most successful Diana commemorative items ever made, and probably the most lucrative, if not for the Mint, then for an assortment of people who cater to her collectors.   The doll and her wardrobe collection were launched in 1998 and have continued to be hugely popular more than 10 years after her death.  This article is partly a buying guide and partly an editorial.  Sellers and buyers alike can use this information to make our hobby mutually more enjoyable.

The collection started with a 15½” vinyl doll wearing a blue knit suit.    Eventually, more than two dozen more of Diana’s outfits have been either added directly to her wardrobe as separate ensembles or on dressed dolls.  For more about Princess Diana dolls, please see my other eBay Guides. 

The ensembles were initially issued every few months with one large hiatus between the first "subscription" (6 outfits) and the second.  The breaks between outfits became longer and longer until unfortunately, the Mint gave up the wardrobe collection subscription in 2003.  Since then, it has issued quite a few more dressed dolls, some limited editions and some not. 

In a desperate response to the Mint’s dilatory attitude, some collectors began recreating outfits that the Mint missed.  Some did this for themselves, some for friends and fellow collectors, setting off what has become a high-dollar and exclusive sector of the doll collecting community.  These folks attempt all aspects of Diana’s wardrobe, ranging from classic suits and smart day dresses to elaborate evening gowns, fabulous cocktail dresses and leisure wear such as swimsuits and other sports apparel.  Most use photos from books, magazines and the Christie’s auction catalogue as a reference guide.

Eventually, dressmakers specialising in other dolls have been attracted to sewing for Diana.  Some of these have been able to command HUGE prices for their work, and while some of these gave value for money, some collectors haven’t always been given their money’s worth. While I love most of the Mint's work, I adore what the best Diana replicators have done over the years even while I cringe, wince and groan at what the worst have produced.

You will see many custom outfits claiming to be for the FM Princess Diana on eBay.  Some are excellent, well-done replicas of ensembles she wore during her life; some are fantasy creations which quite frankly, often push the ephemeral envelope of tastefulness into a dimension which makes sleazy Las Vegas lounge singer glitz seem classy by comparison,  pushing Diana into the Barbie-zone of outrageous make-believe. The fabrics, the necklines, the accessories all scream at the buyer and don't always reflect Diana's fashion sense.  Some are outfits originally belonging to other dolls such as Tyler Wentworth, FM’s Elizabeth Taylor or Brenda Starr with descriptions sounding as if FM had released it as a limited run item or had originally intended for Diana to wear them.  Many don’t even fit the doll properly and often the seller hasn't revealed that the outfit isn’t fastened in the back or that special arranging has been done for the photo shoot. 

Of course, some collectors don’t mind going beyond what Diana wore and feel that they are keeping her alive by imagining how things could have turned out.  That's fine, but if you don’t share this opinion, you may need to do a little research in order to make sure that what you are buying is truly a rare and wonderful item meant for Diana, rather than another doll’s cast-offs or a seller’s imagination run amok to plump up a final bid or even worse, the result of someone using up a remnant fabric stash left over from the Gene Halloween witch’s outfits done five years ago for a fashion doll convention!  Yikes.

One seller in particular from Europe used to buy outfits from Diana dressmaking sellers and repackage them in some way, often pricing them at levels way beyond the original cost, using misleading descriptions while occasionally adding incorrect accessories and seldom offering additional value for the money.  The effect of this is that the market is artificially inflated by projecting the impression that this is the load the general Diana replica market will bear.  It also alienates sellers making them feel cheated, so no one really wins in this scenario.

How can descriptions mislead?  I have seen some dillies.  One seller edited her doll photo wearing an outfit she created and cropped Diana’s head onto it which made it appear that Diana herself had worn the gown (which was a figment of the seller’s imagination.)  This was not mentioned in the description.  Another seller (who doesn’t sew) has been selling outfits designed and sold for other FM dolls (such as Vanna White or Elizabeth Taylor) and stating in the auction, quite factually, that “This is an FM gown” but adding that it is “for your Diana Princes off Wales” [sic] which can trick a buyer into thinking that the item was made by FM FOR Diana.  Some sellers like to dub their items “rare” or “unique."  Beware, both these words should set off alarm bells.  Mass marketed items are neither rare nor unique--that's what the word "mass" tells you. 

They may state that the item is OOAK (“One of a Kind”) or a “limited edition,” either ignoring or not understanding that using those terms mean that only the numbers indicated (one or whatever the edition limit was) exists.  Don’t be gulled into bidding big bucks for these items.  Just because I have an item (of which thousands were made) and put it on another item (again, made in the thousands) it doesn't make that item "one of a kind."  That is fuzzy math meant to convince uneducated buyers into parting with their cash.  Smart buyers research collectibles by networking with other collectors.

If bidding on an outfit you want goes higher than your limit, you can always ask the seller to make another one OR if s/he says it’s not possible, find another sewing seller.  Sellers can set up an auction for a custom order with a buy-it-now in order to stay inside eBay rules.  It is a very rare occurrence that someone will have only enough fabric to make one outfit.  Typically, it isn’t cost effective for a seamstress to find fabric, design a pattern, make a mockup and sew an outfit ONCE, although I am advised that it does occasionally happen, depending on the complexity of the whole project--materials, labor and techniques involved. 

Several collectors have told me that having something special that no one else does is important to them.  Having "OOAK" outfits doesn't float my boat--I'm happier if everyone is happy and I think everyone is happier if they know exactly what they are buying.  If the seller's problem is not having the fabric, offer to look for what is required in shops in your local area.

Another issue is that some sewing sellers have not always considered how their work may damage their customers’ dolls.  Fabrics can leach dye into the vinyl which may require treatment to remove (or which may stain the doll permanently.)  Sleeves sewn too tight can cause a doll owner to strain the thumbs and fingers of the doll when pulling on long sleeves.  (I actually bought a vinyl Diana whose thumb fell off as I was unwrapping it from bubblewrap--I can only guess that her former owner forced her hands through too-small sleeves.)  Unlined items with snaps or other metallic notions can rust, scratch or create dents in vinyl or pull snags in fabric during storage if the item comes in contact with something else.

Some things buyers should ask sellers when shopping for clothing for their Franklin Mint Princess Diana doll:

1. Did you make this item yourself or are you reselling it?
2. Do you fit your items on an FM Diana doll?  (Other dolls which have other measurements could be being used as mannequins, making for a poor fit.)
3. Is this meant to be a replica of something Diana actually wore?
4. Do you have a photo of Diana wearing the original item OR can you cite a reference book or web site with a photo?
5. Have you edited auction photos in any way (adjusting colors, cropping items out, magically adding items in)?
6. Can you tell me the differences between your version & Diana’s?  (color, length, etc.)
7. What kind of fabric is used?
8. How many of these have you made? (Practice makes perfect. Prototypes sometimes have issues.)
9. Is the item is lined? If so, in what color and fabric?  (Linings touch the doll's body & can transfer dye.)
10. Are you supplying any accessories?  If so, what specifically, especially if the auction photo shows such items with the doll?  (Shoes, hat/s, jewelry, belts)  If not, can you refer me to your supplier?
11. Do you provide a story card or certificate of authenticity?
12. How do you ship your items (boxed, padded envelope)?
13. Do you have a web site where I can see other examples of your work?
14. If the seller is no longer willing to sew the item (OOAKs or limited editions) can/will they recommend a competitor who may be able to help?  Most Diana sellers are kind, gracious and thoughtful people and will be happy to help you.
15. ARE YOU A MEMBER OF THE PRINCESS DIANA DOLL CLUB?  Have you received the Club’s “Royal Dressmaker” Award? 

 On the award above are some samples of what I have purchased over the years from eBay and Club sellers.  Who are some good eBay Diana replica sellers?  Check the sellers on this list (check back occasionally, this list will be updated as new sellers are identified.*

• 333show
• alanab
• dollies4me
• hisodoll
• mini-mary
• mscravitz
• nonaalaska
• saxien
• schmaltz-20
• sweetcreations

What are my qualifications for giving this advice? 

1)  I have been collecting replica outfits for the FM Princess Diana doll since their first dolls in 1998  & (non-FM made) custom ones since 1999.  I have an award winning collection of Princess Diana dolls and have appeared on two BBC programmes and a news show.

2)  I have purchased items from about two dozen Diana dressmakers, the majority of whom sell on eBay. 

3)  I run a large and active online Princess Diana Doll Club where many eBay sewing sellers, past, present and perhaps future, advertise their auctions and where many eBay buyers discuss good and bad sellers.  As sampling wares from all sellers would be a monumental (and expensive!) undertaking, networking with members of the Club is an absolute necessity, especially when sellers' identities and integrity is at question.  As a group, we have rooted out sellers involved in illegal practices and reported them to eBay.

4) *I have personally done business with every seller on the list above, either through eBay or through dolly contacts made elsewhere, and feel confident in recommending all of them.  Unfortunately, several of my favorite replica makers either only sew for themselves now, have disappeared off the radar or have passed away and so are missing from this list. However, I never know when one or more might come out with a new outfit at any time, so I hope this guide helps you to find their auctions quickly.  I scan eBay regularly looking for fresh items and new ideas from new sellers.  Feedback doesn't always tell the whole story of who is a good or bad seller, since bidders sometimes choose not to leave any feedback rather than face the wrath of a vengeful seller.

5)  I am not a regular seller or dealer & I have absolutely NO vested interest in influencing you or your purchases.  Not all writers of other guides can say (or even spell) that.  I am *legally* entitled to express my opinion (this is a guide, not a long-winded ode to my ego or an attempt to prove how wonderful I am--my aim is to provide correct and useful information) and sellers appreciate the buzz that positive word-of-mouth recommendations generate.

I have bought some exquisite items as well as some utter crap.  I would like to save others from the same disappointment I have experienced when I haven't felt I received value for my money.  If you feel you have gained even one useful piece of information from this article, would you please take a moment to vote yes as to whether this guide has been helpful.  If it hasn't been helpful, please let me know how I could improve it.

I am constantly looking out for good Diana designers.  If you sew, and you are wondering what will put you on this list, I've probably already seen your work  and may be considering a purchase from you if what you make fits with my overall collecting plan, however I may have to pass on your items because I have very high standards and a very small budget.  If I haven't seen your work first hand, I probably won't add your ID to my list, unless a sufficient number of my reliable Diana doll contacts recommend you.  If you are new to the Diana collecting community and approach me about the list, I may have to ask you to wait until you have established a reputation and ask again.  This list isn't for "resellers," that is, people who merely repackage manufactured commercial items for resale; I prefer to concentrate on the work of artists with needles.

I do plan to update this with links and photos, but unfortunately haven't had the time yet to do so.