I have been collecting brass logging locomotives for years and have seen some really nice models and some not so nice models.  It seem that most of the manufactured locomotives start off as very nice models but then the uneducated customer starts in and messes them up out of lack of knowledge.

Lets talk about storage first.  Every brass locomotive represents a substantial investment to the buyer and like any investment you want it to appreciate.  The best way is to store it is in the original box that it came in for protection against damage.  Care should be taken when thinking of where you will store the box as well, as it is an important part of the value of the package.  Without a original factor issued box or a damaged box the value can drop 20 to 40 percent to those who collect brass locomotives.  In fact some "collectors" will not even consider the locomotive unless it has the correct box.  The padding or foam  inside of the box is important as well. Some foam is known to deteriorate over time.  Probably the most famous foam that has deteriorated and damaged models is the red foam that some of the Westside Model Company models came boxed in.  That foam unknowingly had an acid in it which attacked the brass and or the paint on the stored locomotive.  It also became stuck on the model and is a bear to remove.  It will distroy any kind of custom paint work.  It is important to check this foam once in a while to see how it is doing.  If you press a finger on it and it doesn't spring back into position it is time to replace it before it does damage to the model.  You have no choice at that point.  Next, ALWAYS wrap your brass model in a clear plastic sheet before placing it into the foam/box.  That will be a barrier between any chemical from the foam and the model itself.  If you have the original plastic sheets make sure you use them.  If not make some up out of Zip-lock Bags cut with a pair of scissors.  The plastic wrap also makes sure that the small protruding parts are not snagged by the foam, resulting in having them either broken off or bent.  Foam that has stuck on the sides of the locomotive does damage.  It sticks, stains and erodes the clear coat, paint, and brass.  If you have this damage clean it off as soon as possible with a soft brush, and if necessary disassemble the locomotive and use gentle soap and water on the metal parts, then air dry and reassemble.

When disassembling brass use the proper size tools!  No hammers please!  It is an art in remembering where all the little screws and parts go, so get organized.  Make small drawings of complicated areass while in the disassembly process.  For small parts organization and to keep right and left side parts seperate as well as for reassembly use an egg carton.  Not only does it have a compartment for each part but the inside cover makes a nice place to write down notes for reassemble.  There is nothing as frustrating as loosing a part that is so small that it stops the reassembly process.  Remember most of the older brass models do not have replacement parts you can send in for.  Do not disassemble over a shag rug or other areas that the floor or area is cluttered with stuff.  If a part goes twang and flys or gets droped, it makes it much easer to find in a clean smooth surface. 

When cleaning unpainted parts use a mild soap and water and then rinse using a bowl of clean water, never over a running faucet with an open drain below it.  You will never see most parts that depart or know they it went down the drain.  Let the model air dry and then carefully start the reassembly.

For lubrication, use it sparingly.  I have seen locomotives that look like they were been dipped in oil and grease.  In this case more is not better.  Once you lubricate them the oil or grease remain a liquid and will continue to run and pool on the bottom sides.  Excess will drip or run down onto painted surfaces and more than likely ruin painted surfaces.  So use the correct oil very sparingly.  Personally, I try to place a drop on a piece of glass and then touch a tooth pick to it and then place only what I pick up on the wooden toothpick, on the bearing to be oiled.  Oil is also known to spray off the bearings of motors if oiled to much. so take it easy.  A little goes a log way. 

Once you have the model cleaned and oiled you can proudly display it but over time the oil will evaporate so be ready to relubricate it only if absolutely necessary.  Most models that are run keep the oils and lubrication circulating and rarely need oil more than once a year even if used a lot.  If you do run a model you may see dirt that accumulates on the wheels.  This is from either oily dirt that accumulates on the track or wheels making it sticky.  To clean wheels you can use denatured alcohol swab or the Kadee Electrical Wheel Cleaner.   That has a soft copper or brass brush that is electrically charged and runs your locomotive while you hold the wheels against the brush.  It takes off all the stuck on dirt.  Do not use anything abrasive like a pencil eraser.  The plating is only so thick and will wear off, if harsly cleaned with an abrasive, which destroys some of the value of your investment.  Sometimes you can find a plater to replate the bright nickle plating for you but it costs more money!  Track should be cleaned with a track cleaner like a Bright Boy and or with Denatured Alcohol as well.

Lastly make a written and photographic record of your models. Make it in a spread sheet form which will record the model, what it is where you got it, how much you paid, how much it is worth, any details you have noted that are different between this model and other similar ones.  Use a small sticker dot on the bottom of the model with a unique number that corresponds to a sticker on the bottom of the box and is referenced in your spread sheet listing.  After all, if something happens to you, will your family be able to figure out which box this or that model goes into and be able to identify it?  Will they be able to determine the approximate value of the model or will they sell it to some unscrupulous person who will pay nickels on the dollar for it.  I think we all know folks that operate like that.  You can also put someone on your list that you trust and will be will monitor the honesty in any sales of your collection as well for your family to consult with.  Your insurance company will be able to use this same list in the event that you have fire damage or a break in and things are stolen.  Check with your insurance company for details.

Remember brass models are an art form and investment, the as same as paintings, sculptures, coins, stamps, or rare cars are.   If you take care of them properly they increase in value and are an investment that will benefit you.  If you do not take care of them they will depreciate in value and you will loose money.  Some models by their very nature are rare and valuable due to the low quantity made, don't make a silly mistake or treat your model carelessly and lose hundreds of dollars.  Consult one of the three Brown books, preferably volume III for estimated values.  But remember even that book is nearly 20 years old now.  Your best bet for determining value are auction sites such as eBay or consulting internet sites of companies such as Dan's in Ocala Fl, Gunnings, Caboose Hobbies, The Caboose, and other Google'd sites.

If you find this helpful please let eBay know by selecting your evaluation of the article.  Thanks agian, Dave