Primitive and rustic country charm is easy and inexpensive to add with brass chicken wire. Another popular choice is Bronze chicken wire. (This is what you are looking for if you want the copper chicken wire. It is nearly the same as a new penny.) How about making those glass cabinet doors pop with interest? Kitchen cabinets, Hoosier cabinets, China cabinets, Barrister bookcases, hutches, and more! This wire also works very well with smaller projects and crafts: Jewelry boxes, Christmas crafts, wreaths, etc. Using brass or bronze hexagonal mesh will add value and interest to your craft items and seasonal decorations, as well as making them easier to create!

This same product can be found elsewhere, but not for the price we offer! Check us out here!

No matter the look you want, you can make it work, and we can help!

First, you will need to know how much wire you will need. It comes in a width of 36 inches, and is measured out by the linear foot. A one linear foot piece is 36 inches wide and 12 inches long. A 4 linear foot piece is still 36 inches wide, but is 48 inches long, and so on... You will probably need to add an extra half inch to the actual openings. If you need to fold an edge to strengthen it, a full inch, folded twice, is best. (Please remember that the end of every strand is sharp, and that wire is springy, you MUST wear gloves and safety glasses.)

Second, you will need to know if you want the brass or "copper" to remain bright and shiny, or if you want it to get that dark, rustic, 'old country' look. The wire we carry has a factory clear coat on it that keeps the brass bright for a while, but I don't count on it to keep it that way. Bronze begins to darken quickly, though. It starts out looking like new pennies, and it darkens to a brown. True copper patinas to a green, but copper mesh wire would cost over $70.00 a linear foot! (If this is ABSOLUTELY a must have, I can order it, but there will need to be a very good deposit, and the lead time is over six weeks.) I have a link to a site that has various chemicals that will create nearly any color or type of patina on brass and bronze. Either way, this needs to be thought through and prepared first:

To keep either bright, you will want to clean it and add a coat of a good spray-on lacquer to it to be sure the coverage is good. Use only a lacquer, and be sure of your coverage. Any other type of finish will not work for maintaining the look. Eventually, the bronze will lose some of the pink hues no matter what you do, but it will keep the shine. You may need to re-apply the finish after a few years, or more often if the wire mesh gets flexed frequently. Just do not let it slide, you don't want to hand polish this...

If you want brass to darken, you will need to remove the coating. Any standard paint stripper will work, just be sure to follow the instructions they provide. Final removal should be done by spraying with water to remove all of it from the wire twists. At this point, you can install it and let it darken naturally over time, or put your cut-to-size pieces into a sealable container with a small amount of household ammonia. Don't bother with commercial brass 'darkeners', as their active ingredient is ammonia. (Chances are, you have some of this under your sink!)

If you want to darken bronze, your best bet is to leave it alone! Otherwise, I'll get you the link to the site mentioned above. (I have nothing to do with their site, it's just good info!)

The third and last step is the application to your project. There are many ways to install it. In all likelihood, you can handle this without help, but allow me to make some suggestions: The key to a good look is to keep the wire tight. It will stretch a little, and this is expected, but the nature of the weave is that it will distort if you aren't careful to pull it straight. Always try to use the factory edge as the anchor point. this way it will be easy to keep it lined up. (Be mindful of this when cutting!)

The best method for installation is a groove and spline system, if you have the ability to do it. You need to rout or cut a groove on at least the two longest sides of the opening. These should be 1/4" deep x 1/4" wide, (This will depend on the spline you use, these dimensions work with the spline we carry.) and at least 1/4" back from the edge of the opening. Lay the factory edge of the wire at the outside edge of the groove. Tap the spline in with a hammer and a block of wood. Make sure the mesh just reaches the far side of the groove on the opposite side. As you tap the opposite spline in, it will draw the wire tight. The other sides of the opening can be left this way, or you can cover them with our flat stock moulding.

Installing into a rabbet requires quarter-round moulding to hold it securely. You will need to fold the edges of the wire. This is best done using the edge of a thin piece of wood. This will allow you to obtain good sharp creases. When you finish, your mesh should be just smaller than your opening. Then place your moulding strip on one side, and fasten it with small brads. (Safety glasses!) Pull the other edge tight, and fasten the opposite side. The top and bottom should be easy now. trim off any excess, and now enjoy!

If you want to get the spline, quarter-round, or flat stock from us, just visit our E-Bay store: http://stores.ebay.com/Cornerstone-Wood-n-Stuff