Question:
How well do bead reamers work? I keep running into the problem of wanting to add small beads to accent a larger bead and it not fitting on the wire. I've tried drilling but it makes black marks on the bead and takes FOREVER! What is the best way to combine little beads with bigger (medium) beads? ie. 3-4mm beads with briolettes or with 6-8mm beads?

Answer:
The hole size of beads is one of the most challenging aspects of actually putting a piece together.

Unfortunately, there is no standard hole size for beads and usually the harder the bead is the smaller the hole will be, even on large stones. This is a real problem with stones like Rubies.

Kay has not had much success with hand bead reamers. Even using a diamond drill bit in a drill can be very difficult. If you use a diamond bit, you have to use plenty of water on the bit as you are drilling to keep the bit cool. If you are not using enough water, this may be why you are getting black marks on your stones. If the bit overheats it will be ruined. With reamers and drills it is very easy to break beads.

The only real answer for drilling holes in beads is too expensive and hard to use to be practical. For some custom, one-of-a-kind beads that we make, we purchased an Ultra-Sonic drill. This drill uses the vibration of sound waves on a stainless steel needle along with grit to drill through stones. The machine is expensive ($1500 to $3500) and is difficult to learn to use but it does work and this is what is used overseas to drill the holes in all of the beads.

So what do you do? You asked about combining small and large beads. If you are using solid wire, you can make links with the largest size wire that will fit through each group of beads. So if you have a focal bead with a large hole, you can use a 22 gauge wire through it and make a loop in your wire on each side of the bead (use accent sterling or vermeil bead if desired).

If you have other beads that only a 26 gauge wire will fit through, you can make sections or links that have the smaller beads on small sections of the 26 gauge wire with the ends looped on both sides. With 26 gauge wire it is best to double loop your ends. Each section could be 1⁄2" to 1 1⁄2" long depending on how many beads you string on each section. Once you have made your links then jump ring them together.

If you use multi-strand beading wire, be sure that you have a variety of sizes on hand and use the one that will fit through the smallest hole. You may need .010 or .012 wire to get through some stones. Generally .015 size wire will fit though most beads but there will always be beads with smaller holes. You have to do your best to work with the holes size that you get. Try to have a variety of wire available when you start your project.


Comment from Subscriber:
Loved the question, as I also, have problems. I found that a 28-30 gauge half hard wire works excellent for the small holed beads. I am experimenting with wire wrapping and these gauges are ideal. The half-hard wire is just right to wrap when I do my briolettes. The more I wrap the better I get. Thanx, as always for your great tips. Keep 'em coming and have a great day!!!


Commment from subcriber:
...I learned a few tricks to redrill even the toughest beads! Some beads are just not worth the trouble, but when we buy expensive stones and end up with something we can't use, the frustation can be overwhelming! So being 'frugal', I came up with a system for redrilling.

I use a variable speed dremel with a flex shaft, a steady hand, a bowl of water, a 'catch' box AND plenty of diamond dust coated THIN and pointed drill bits.

After I learned the HARD way that drills can slip and bits WILL drill clean to the bone, I use a pair of fairly heavy work gloves with fingertip grips to hold the bead in my left hand and with litte to NO pressure re-drill the hole with the dremel held in my right. The trick seems to be to keep dipping the bead into the water every 15 seconds or so and to allow the water to drip onto the bit from the first finger of my left hand.

If/when the bead becomes warm, just dip into the room temp water. Keeping that bit WET is the key! And keep dipping the bead into the water. Don't ever let a bead get hot! They break when overheated as a general rule. Keep in mind how 'hard' your stone is. Fedlspars are EASY to redrill, Quartz a bit harder - takes longer, more water and can get red hot if you are not careful, and Topaz, Emerald, Ruby, Sapphire are all extremely hard (9 and 8 on Mohs scale) and need a very careful touch to redrill.

Water will collect into the hole already drilled. Just drill into the hole that is the smallest. Drill slowly, keep it wet, wet wet! You can also drill from the 'ok' side if there is one... you will feel a 'push' when you have drilled to then past the other side you have already redrilled. This is when you must be VERY careful and keep the pressure down lest you end up with drill bit in palm of hand!
Maeve


Comment:
She goes on to mention that there are toxins that are released from some stones when they are drilled. This is a good point. She mentioned pearls, malachite, Azurite, Chrysocolla, Turquoise and bone. I would add Charoite to that list and I am sure that there are many more.

She uses a box with holes in the sides for her hands and a hole in the top to look through to see the bead.

If you are going to drill any beads, I would suggest a mask with filters that will stop toxic vapors. It is also a good idea to wear goggles to protect your eyes.