BUYING AT LIVE AUCTIONS FOR EBAY RETAIL -- WIN THE BID  --INCREASE YOUR EBAY SALES AND PROFITS

A good way to purchase items for sale on eBay is to buy at local LIVE auctions.  We all know that the less we pay for an item, the more profit we make.  I think Getty was credited with saying, on being asked how do you make money? Answered, "Buy Low -- Sell High."  If you buy low at live auctions you can sell high-er on eBay.  I have gone to at least 1000 live auctions so I do know my way around them.

1.  FIND LIVE AUCTIONS IN YOUR AREA.   There are live auctions in even small areas of the country.  (a) look in yellow pages under "auctions." (b) check under "auctions" in local papers, check every day. (c) ask around, friends, chamber of commerce, antique or flea market owners and even family.  Many auctions are weekly or monthly and you will met very nice people at them, many of whom will be your friends, some your fierce competitors.

2. PREPARE YOURSELF FOR YOUR BIDDING.   A successful bidder at a live auction does their homework   (a) All auctions have a "PREVIEW" time in which you can look at items prior to the auction starting.  Go as early as you can.  You may also be able to get your AUCTION BIDDER CARD at that time, sometimes you have to wait till closer to the auction] you will need that to bid, if you can't get it then you will be able to get it prior to the auction.  Ask what you will need to get one.[At most auctions you will need a VALID picture ID like a driver's license IF YOU HAVE A RESALE TAX NUMBER GIVE IT TO THEM, and they will put you into the computer and you will be given a long card with a number on the TOP --  that is your bid number for the entire auction, you will need to get another one the next time but you will be in the computer and on the mailing list.] (b) Take a small notebook to make a list of each item, include the LOT number [all consignees to auctions are given a number that is put on each box or item] and description of the item and the MAXIMUM you are prepared to pay.  There is such a thing as "auction fever" where you pay more than you intended because you got caught up in the spirit of the bidding, having a MAXIMUM, even if you go over once in a while keeps you on your budget. (c) check each item for any defects, it is buyer beware.  If it is a box of items, note what is in THAT box AND MAKE SURE WHAT YOU WANT IS STILL THERE JUST BEFORE YOU BID, there are thieves at auctions too and some unscrupulous buyers will move things from one box to another, in fact, "salting" the box they want. (d) TAKE DIGITAL PICTURES, ask first, generally you are told it is OK.  This will be handy when doing your research before the actual auction. (e) MARK YOUR CHAIR, at that time you can also "save a seat" by taking a piece of paper and putting your number on it (if you have it) OR just your initials, and taping it to the front of the seat, on the back up high.  Otherwise when you come to the auction you may be waaaaay in the back.  I would suggest you sit in row 3-8 on the inside aisle, generally there are "old timers" who are used to the front rows and they can be downright nasty about newbies.  Trust me on this!  You need friends not enemies at an auction.

3.  HOMEWORK.  Do you homework, (a) which includes looking up on line and closed items to better understand the VALUE of what you are going to bid on. This is why taking the digital pictures are a good idea.  (b) Make NOTES in your notebook next to your description so you have them when you are bidding. (c) Make any changes on your maximum bid if needed.

3.  ARRIVAL AT THE AUCTION.  (a) GET TO AUCTION AT LEAST 30 MINUTES EARLY. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE YOUR BID CARD AND YOUR NOTEBOOK, you might even have a little "auction bag" for all your things. (b) TAKE WATER AND SNACK.  Auction food is notoriously bad.   (c) Make sure you still have your seat, that no one has removed the piece of paper with your number -- that has been known to happen; establish a "I am here NOW" presence on the seat by leaving your coat or a scarf, NEVER YOUR PURSE [remember what I said about thieves, take the same precautions that you would in any large public gathering].  (d) INTRODUCE YOURSELF to those on both sides, first name is enough, you will be sitting together for many hours!  And, if they are friendly they might answer a few questions on bidding for you. 

4.  BIDDING (a) NEVER RAISE YOUR HAND/BID CARD at the FIRST amount mentioned by auctioneer, it is what he WISHES the bidding would start at!  Wait and the opening bid will generally go lower, if he lowers the opening bid to what he feels is too low he can PASS the item, that is take it out of auction.  SELDOM HAPPENS. (b) BIDDING JUMPS, almost like on eBay, at lower amounts they may jump just a dollar or $2.50, may even jump at the $2.50 till maybe $17.50 then the auctioneer may try for $20 then $25.  The higher it goes the higher it jumps.  YOU CAN SIGNAL THE AUCTIONEER THAT YOU WANT TO BID HALF OF THE JUMP IN BID by holding up your hand, bending your wrist, and waving hand from side to side, the same way you might tell someone "that's enough coffee" by a hand movement.  The auctioneer may take this and he may not.  He will let you know.  Generally the auctioneer or a worker will point to you and say "YUP" to confirm your bid.    When it is sold, hold up your bid card so they can see your number and make sure they call it correctly.  What happens to the item then depends on the auction.  More about that later.

5.  KINDS OF BIDS.   Yup!  There is more than one kind of bid on items placed up for auction and you need to know the difference, there may be a slight difference in how it is announced regionally, but the divisions are the same.  (a) STRAIGHT ONE ITEM or SEVERAL ITEMS OR A BOX SOLD AS A "LOT" [described in paragraph (4)]   (b) SEVERAL ITEMS UP FOR BID AT ONCE AND THEY ARE OFFERING "FIRST CHOICE" this means that upon the winning bid, bidding process is the same, you are offered "first choice" that means you can chose ONE or more of the items at that time but you will PAY your bid price for EACH item.  If your high bid was $10 and you picked out four items, you just spent $40. (c) After that they start the auction again with the remaining items and you are now bidding for "SECOND CHOICE" where your winning bid may be much less than the first choice bid, again you have to take one but can take as many as you want at that price (d) Sometimes there is a "THIRD CHOICE" managed the same way, after that they usually say "REMAINDER" and everything left in that lot is sold for one price for all of it. (e) I call the next one "SO MUCH EACH AND TIMES THE MONEY" this is where for example there are eight chairs, your winning bid will be multiplied by eight and you have just bought them all.  Out of all the auction types this is the one that people mostly make a mistake on, they THINK it is for "all of them at one price" or "first choice" and they only want one.  OUCH.  If you get caught on this one, well as we say you just "paid tuition" for the lesson not to do it again. If you bring it immediately to the auctioneers attention, via a worker, they might, I say "might," let you out of the bid if you are new --if you have been around a while you are definately stuck.

MOST IMPORTANT, WRITE DOWN HOW MUCH YOU PAID FOR EVERYTHING  YOU BUY AT THE TIME YOU BUY IT & CHECK YOUR PRINTOUT PRIOR TO PAYING TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE NOT BEEN OVERCHARGED.  OR ARE BEING CHARGED FOR SOMETHING YOU DID NOT BUY.  HUMANS MAKE MISTAKES.   Example, last week at an auction, I bought something for $2.50  and when I checked my printout prior to paying they had it at $250.00.

6.  BOXES OF STUFF.   Some auctions have "back rooms or tables" where boxes of less valuable items are all placed and THIS IS ALSO WHERE THERE ARE SOME GOOD BARGAINS.  I got a $400 gold pocket watch in one for $4 for the box one time.  These boxers should have been carefully dug through in the preview and prior to your actual bid, make sure what you want is still in the box.  If it has been moved to another box, point this out to the auctioneer or a worker prior to the start of that lot's bidding and generally they will allow you to move it back.  All boxes in the lot are pointed out by the auctioneer and you are buying by the box and this is generally a FIRST CHOICE kind of format. 

7.  GETTING YOUR MERCHANDISE.  (a) Sometimes at local auctions you will be handed your merchandise after your winning bid [they know you and know you will pay], and you WILL PAY BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE MERCHANDISE FROM THE BUILDING. (b) The majority of auctions put your items away in a secure location, you PAY and take YOUR RECEIPT to this area and they give you your merchandise. (c) MAKE SURE YOUR CREDIT CARD or CHECK will be accepted for payment!  And of course, paying in CASH is always accepted.

8.  EXTRA HINTS.  (a) ALWAYS TAKE SOME CASH.  About $50 in $5 and $1 bills because, although it is frowned on, people do sell to each other quietly after the auction, maybe you only wanted one thing out of a lot or a box and YOU CAN BUY IT DIRECT FROM THEM.  Don't expect them to make change.  (b) do NOT agree with another bidder to keep the price low or fix a bid, that is called "brother-in-lawing" and you can be thrown out.  You might ask a friend if they wanted what you wanted or you might ask someone what they wanted out of a box before the bid, but that is about all you should really do. (c)  For some odd reason, you are more likely to win a bid on a ODD number of dollars than an even.  Something about people thinking "I won't bid over $40 and you bid $45, they are hesitant to go to $50.  This is especially likely when the bid is say, $95 dollars, it is psychologically hard to make the jump to $100 (d) LEFT BIDS.  Auctions have "left bid" sheets.  You will include your name, bid number, and there is a place to put the LOT number, DESCRIBE THE ITEM, and YOUR HIGHEST BID for EACH ITEM.. [this works like eBay's left bid, the auctioneer helper will bid FOR you to your MAXIMUM] but it is always better to ATTEND the auction.  You should only leave bids if you truly cannot attend in person, if you leave "left bids" and do attend, just ask for your left bid sheet back. (e) BUYING BREAKABLES?  Good idea to bring your own boxes and packaging material, not always available.  Leave in car until needed.  (f) HEAVY ITEMS or MEDICAL PROBLEM LIFTING?  After the auction generally an auction worker will help you carry it out if you ask, it is acceptable, but not necessary to TIP him $1-5.  He will be more likely to help you next time.  Sometimes auctions have carts or two-wheelers you can use to take heavier items to your car.(g) PREPARE FOR CHANGE IN WEATHER, keep coat, gloves, hat in the car, some auctions locations are drafty or unheated too.  I have bought blankets at auction that I didn't want and didn' t need in order to stay warm!. (h) OUTSIDE AUCTIONS, good idea to take your own FOLDING CHAIR so you can sit between your going to different tables or items as auction progresses.(i) WASH YOUR HANDS after all the previewing and digging in boxes. Good idea to keep a little bottle of antibacterial hand wash in your auction bag. (j) IF SOMETHING IS PASSED THAT YOU WANT OR IF  YOU HAVE TO LEAVE EARLY, you can go to a worker and ask that it be brought up, generally they will do it, sometimes they won't.  YOU should tell them an amount that you are willing to start that bid with.  Example: "Could you bring up that NASCAR jacket, I am $100 to go."  The "to go" is recognized by them as a starting bid, and the worker will tell the auctioneer he has "$100 to go."

FINAL NOTE:  SOME AUCTIONS CHARGE A "BUYER'S PREMIUM of 5-10% PERCENT, there will be SIGNS, or ASK.  Generally it is 10 PERCENT (10%) and this is added onto EVERY BID Say you bought something for $100, you really bid $110.  Auctions charge this premium in order to encourage GOOD sellers to bring GOOD merchandise to the auction.  In some locations this may run to 20% so check before you bid.

If you go to the same auction week after week, you make a lot of friends, many fellow eBayers and the auction also becomes a social occasion.  I have been going to one auction on Wednesdays, for over 15 years, some of us even exchange holiday gifts, have established friendships outside of the auction.  Auctions are ready made for eBayers to feel immediately comfortable, you are among like-minded good people.  Of course they might outbid you once in a while or vice-versa, but the friendship remains.  Some will share their eBay ID with you and some won't.  They might not like to let you know how much they are making on the item you passed up.  Don't press the issue.

GOOD LUCK, any questions please feel to write to me.