We all know buying a used snowmobile does not only involve spending a lot of money but also you want to make sure you are getting thru best bang for your buck on a GOOD sled.

Ebay is a GREAT resource for buying your used powersport toys, just be careful and follow some of these pointers and you will be sure to get a good sled!

Remember first and foremost, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!  Many people sell sleds for many different reasons, being a snowmobiler I personally know that I may buy a sled and decide its not what I am looking for and put it for sale.  Don't be put off by a sled if the owner has not owned it long or does not know all the history behind it - of you do your homework you will know all there is needed to know!

If you are looking for reliability - I suggest staying away from a highly modified sled.  These sleds now days come with plenty of HP out of the box, the more you play with them the more problems you invite.

As for ebay - Personally I suggest NOT buying a sled sight un seen - unless the seller has MANY (30+) good quality photos of the unit, and all the details written out - even then viewing with your own eyes is always best!!


OVERALL APPEARANCE

How does it look?  Most people who take care of the outside of it, cover it when being trailerd, wash it when done riding are the same people to properly maintain it!  This is the first and probably the most important place to start.  If it looks like it has been beat, and not well cared for - chances are it hasn't been - Move on - Plenty more out there to look at!

HAS IT BEEN CRASHED?

Look at the tunnel, and bulkhead (the basic 'frame' of the sled.  Look for areas the tunnel looks like it may have 'wrinkled' look under the engine area at the 'belly pan' for cracks / dents etc.  Are the skis straight?  Sticker on a hood are VERY good signs of a crack under it, check ALL stickers!!

SLED-SPECIFIC 

Some models have specific problems that you should be aware of. Ask dealerships, sled-savvy friends, etc. Read magazine reviews.   Learn as much as you can about the models you're interested in. (Try old sled magazines, local dealer service department, etc.)

CLUTCHES

Check the clutches for deep grooves and rubber belt marks all over them.  The sheaves should be smooth.  When you take the sled for a test run, the clutch should engage about 4,000 RPMs' (give or take - depending on the make and model) 


SEAT

Obviously - look for cracks and tears (remember a recover can cost upwards of $200) Its more annoying than anything as the seat will hold water, it will be like riding on a sponge!!
   
TRACK

Think of this as like tires when buying a used car - but even more important!  Remember unless you raise the sled you are only looking at a SMALL portion of the track!  For a non studded track, be sure to look at all the lugs make sure none are torn or missing all together.  Studded track - look for town lugs as well as missing studs.  Remember studs do put a lot of stress on a track, so to see a stud missing or torn is not that un-common.  However, if the track has studs on the OUTSIDE small edge of the track (between track edge and window) be sure to check them ALL, as a town lug on the outside edge of the track is very compromising to the tracks' integrity.  Remember a new track could cost $500 alone (w/o install)

Studded or Not?
     Ask 10 people get 10 answers.  Its boils down to preference!  Personally I will never ride without them, it provides better traction on trails and lakes - increased acceleration, handling, and most importantly breaking!!  All boils down to preference. 


SUSPENSION:

There is a lot to look for on suspension.  Look for rebuildable shocks such as FOX, HPG, RydeFX, Ohlins - all an example.  The benefit of this is you can rebuild a shock for a smaller fee every few years, cheaper than replacement shocks and always a better ride as well.  Push down on the front and rear of the sled, it should take some force to push down on it, and should attempt to recoil as well.  Remember every sled is different and set up different so don't go by only this test.  A good owner will know the last time the shocks were serviced. 

Check front trailing arms and A-Arms for any bends or tweaks as well, as these are expensive to replace. 

Check the steering bearings and tie rods.  There should be very minimal play in the steering system.  Grab the bars, they should not move much before the skis react (some play is normal).  Also if you can raise the sled and move the handlebars they should move with LITTLE effort!  If they are tight it's a sign of lack of lubrication and you are in for some work, as if a steering shaft needs replacement - that means the motor needs to be pulled on some models! 


EXHAUST:

Look for holes or dents in the system from a crash.  If the sled has more than one pipe feel the exhaust pressure coming out from each one) all should be equal) if not one cylinder may not be firing.  If the sled has an aftermarket exhaust be sure the owner re-jetted the carbs to match for the upgrades, and also remember many states have noise laws and will ticket for loud pipes!

ENGINE:

Some people get caught up with miles.  Remember one thing - as unfortunate as it is, there is no law about turning back speedo's and as much as we hope everyone is honest - are they?  And perhaps it's not even the right gauge in the sled, so take miles with a grain of salt.  Your first test should be to start the motor.  Start it cold, should use some choke.  Once warm, it should run w/ no choke.  If it needs choke to stay running it's a good sign of bad gas / dirty carbs.

Secondly take compression readings on all the cylinders.  Testers found at places like auto zone, advanced auto for about $20, money WELL spent!  Not only should they ALL be equal but also about 120 -125 PSI.  Higher is okay, lower than 115 are getting quite low, and something needs some motor work, Higher than 150 may also tell you work has been done to the motor and you are getting closer to a range requiring race fuel. 

Don't be detoured if the owner says it has had a "new top end' or a new "bottom end" as it means the motor has most likely been refreshed and ready to ride, however, if it was just refreshed and has no miles on it since the work was done, you may want to be sure it was done by a respectful place, and done properly.

If it's a liquid cooled sled be sure to look above the track as well as in front of it, and also under the running boards (sled model depending).  You ate looking at the heat exchangers (the sleds cooling system) be sure they are all in tact (very important with a studded track!)

ELECTRINOICS:

Be sure to check ALL lights, (easy to forget when its day time) burnt out bulbs in multiple places tell you there is a bad ground or more likely a voltage regulator has gone bad.  Be sure to check all the heated grips too!  Check hi beams / low beams, be sure all gauges work and lighted gauges work!

GEARING:

Not too much to look for - but be sure there is fluid in the gear case.  The chain and gears are pretty durable and don't require much attention but do require fluid!  If you pull the dipstick and see metal shavings on the end - don't be alarmed this is normal and the end of the stick is typically a magnet to collect all these filings.  They come from the gears, as they are simply "stamped" gears.

MISCELLANEOUS: 

Some things to think about - Not necessarily a reason NOT to buy a sled but may help in negotiating the price of it.

Carbide Runners - Under the skis' is a metal runner - most people think this is what helps steer.  Although true, it is the small carbide edge on that bar is what aids in the steering, more carbide if track is studded.  If this carbide is worn off your sled will not corner and handle at all, and needs to be replaced.  Easy to replace but plan to spend up to $100 on a set.

 Hyfax -This is the 2 plastic 'runners' which the track rides on and protects the suspension rails.  Cheap enough ($20 a set) but just one more thing to replace.  All hyfax have a line on them, which indicates when replacement is needed.  Be sure to check this also.  Check up on the front where the track rides the curve of the skid (suspension), as this is the fastest wear point.

Belts - Is there a spare?  Is the RIGHT belt on the sled?  Belts are very costly (about $80) and you don't want to be stuck without a spare!

Also remember if the seller is throwing in things like a cover, helmets, oil or any extra's these are all costly items!  You can plan to spend about $100 on a good cover (even used) and over that for a helmet