Judging the quality of an Arnold Rapido 0-6-0 American prototype loco can be tough for the uninformed . Since I have been familiar with this model since it's earliest version , I will give some tips to both buyers and sellers as to what to look for when grading these models both as a sale item or a purchase . They are of no particular prototype and are popular simply because they are "cute".

 To start with , these are robust , tough , hard working machines that feature a simplicity of design and ease of servicing that make them the best choice for that constantly running bomb proof " around the Christmas tree" display . A little lubrication and wheel cleaning has kept one of my original ones running for over 40 years . I have never changed brushes in the motor and they don't show any noticable wear to date .

   There are several versions and colour schemes to these little gems . The original versions were the green Western and Atlantic #6 engines . You can easily determine the original issue of these locos by the details used on them .  The very first issue featured a molded plastic "gold" bell and a molded plastic balloon stack held on with a long screw that was a separate piece . These locos also featured the metal side rods . The original issue also sported a "real" jewel for a headlight . The freight version was all black with the step board pilot and switching coupler in place . The freight version was made in many road names and regardless of the number printed on it , it always carried the original molded on number 6 on the front of the boiler . The freight version always had a turned brass straight smoke stack . Even the earliest version with black plastic molded bell and jeweled headlights were like this .

 Later versions of the green and the black locos featured one piece turned brass bells and smoke stacks .

  The only other version of these locos was a silver , red and black U.P. version with a red tender . This version was brought out in the middle of the production and featured both metal side rods as well as plastic ones on later versions . It never had the plastic bell or jewel headlight . Unlike the green version's yellow and green passenger cars , the cars for this loco were grey with red roofs .

 It is interesting to note that as time went by , the bell turnings changed from those that actually looked like a bell to those that more closely resembled a whistle .

  The side rods underwent a change as well . Early versions featured stamped metal side rods that were pinned in place to the third driver while the final version had visually more appealing molded plastic rods with a much more detailed valve gear in place . The third driver had a pin molded on to it that the drive rod rode on .

  Now that you know a bit about judging the age of these locos , I will tell you what to look for as far as quality goes .

 I have noticed that many sellers here on eBay  miss some of the details on these locos . If you are looking for a pristine version of one of these , the first thing I look for is if the tender steps are all there . They are located on each of the four corners of the tender and are the first casualties on these models . They are very fragile and easily overlooked if missing . Unless you know they are supposed to be there , you probably wouldn't notice that they are missing . At least one out of three models on eBAy that are graded as perfect have these steps missing .

 The next items are the classification flag holders on the loco's deck front . These can easily be broken off and not missed if you don't know to look for them .

  It goes without saying that you should check for the pressed on details like bells and if supplied , the headlight jewel . Later versions only had the interior of the headlight painted silver . Also check to make sure that that the wire tender handrail is in place as well as the tender light .

    I won't bother to mention too much about looking for damage to the passenger "cowcatcher" or freight pilot as these items should be obvious to even the most novice of collectors .

 When you receive your loco clean the wheels on the loco and tender and make sure that the tender wheels are in proper gauge before you put your loco into service . I  nearly went crazy with derailments before I found that the tender wheels were gauged too narrow .

 Dissassembling the loco is a simple matter of unscrewing the smoke stack . You can do this with your fingers on later versions . Older versions require a jeweler's screw driver down the stack .

 After removing the stack , the boiler just lifts off . Be careful doing this as there is a tab that locks the boiler to the front of the cab and it is very delicate if handled roughly . After you remove the boiler lift up the running boards and cab assembly from the front first . Be careful not to break off the two frame pins at the lower back of the cab . Lifting this part up and to the rear avoids this . Also watch out for the pilot . It is held in place by the running board assembly and will fall off if you are not careful . Replacing the pilot is simple .

  The motor simply sits on the two contacts . You can lift the motor out easily now . Don't worry about putting the motor in wrongly . The two pins that hold the brush holders in place have to have their heads down to make contact . So if you put the motor in wrong the engine won't run well if at all . Arnold usually scratched an "X" on the side of the motor that faces up to help us do things right !!

 One tiny drop of oil on each end of the motor is all that is needed to keep this loco happy for a LONG time . Remember ......if one drop of oil is good two is not better !! Excess oil only traps dirt and fouls electrical contacts . A tiny touch of plastic compatible grease on the gears goes a very long way too !!

  To reassemble the loco , start  by placing the motor on the frame . Make sure the pilot hasn't fallen off and  don't disturb the valve gear either . Make sure the worm gear on the motor engages the drive gear in the frame properly . Slide the running board and cab section on next , starting from the rear of the engine . Make sure that the pins mentioned above engage properly . Everything on this model fits together perfectly so easy does it . Next hook the boiler tab under the front of the cab and gently lower it into place . Finish the job by screwing the smoke stack down snuggly but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN it . If you do , you will strip the threads holding it on and have a real problem . Check to make sure that the boiler is seated flush with the running boards . There is a raised circle molded into the running board piece that the boiler engages to keep it in place . Put your loco on the track and apply power . Enjoy !!

 I hope this little guide is of some use to those of you who , like me , have a soft spot for these dependable little N Scale veterans from the dawn of our scale !!