Telling REAL from REPRO

Telling real items from reproduction items has always been a problem in the world of Antiques and Collectibles. If you have ever bought something old only to find out later that it was not in any way as old as you were led to believe, then, unfortunately, you are in good company.

There are several practical steps, tips and tricks which hopefully will make you much more aware of an object’s attributes. In doing so, you will then be on the your way to becoming more aware when it comes to purchasing a genuine object for your own collections.

[Oh, by the way, there's absolutely nothing wrong with those who buy or sell reproduction items, as long as a reproduction item is very clearly identified as such when it is sold, and understood to be a repro when it is purchased. I am not discussing reproduced copyrighted or trademarked items, or forgeries here -- which is a totally different subject, and completely illegal to sell.]

Tips on telling real from repro:

• Know your seller...

One of the first and easiest things you can do to insure the item you are buying is authentically old is to buy from a reputable, established dealer who you know. Speaking about non-internet purchases here - a dealer you know that has ties in the community and that guarantees her goods is the best insurance you can have. Always ask for a detailed receipt when buying. If you are buying an 19th century ladies' writing table, have the receipt state such, not just "writing table". Then, if there is any problem later, you will be covered. What if you want to buy from online auctioneer? Is it still possible to protect yourself? YES! Again, know your dealer. Be sure to check out the dealer's feedback - examine the negatives, of course, but also read the positives - you will want to see a variety of buyers, not just the same ones, and buyers who are actually collectors of the items they are buying, who themselves have good feedback. This assures you that the seller is not using shill bidders, and that his or her items do indeed attract the savvy collectors.

• Know your seller's stock...

One thing that you must absolutely be sure to check when looking at feedback, is the past auctions of a seller. Has this seller sold many identical or near-identical old items in the past? Does he seem to have an endless supply of them? If a seller seems to be offering somewhat scarce items of the same thing over and over again -- this is a definite red flag and there is a reasonable certainty that the objects are indeed reproductions. Scarce or rare vintage items and antiques do not come boxed up with matching "wear", and shipped in crates of 12! :)

• Know the world's stock...

This also reminds me -- its relatively easy to do some quick 'repro' research on something before you bid, or even before you buy locally. Ebay makes it easy to search, of course, and so do all the big search engines. Do a general internet search on that item you are thinking of buying. Are you finding multiples of that item - items that look just like it - all over the internet? If you are a seller and you are trying to determine if your object is an original or a repro, this type of search should, of course, be the first thing you do, especially if you are unsure, before you list your object as an original piece.  

• Know your "widgets"...

So you've started collecting something - let's say, widgets: maybe you just happened into widget collecting because your great-grandmother left you a large collection of widgets. Whatever the way you have fixated on widgets, eventually you may feel the need to know the value of your collection. How do you tell if the widgets you have are fine 19th century widgets or 1960's copies of 19th century widgets? Begin to educate yourself. Invest in the best collector's book you can find on widgets and read up. Visit reputable shops where fine widgets are sold and take a good look at them. Join a collectors group for widgets on the internet and discuss your widgets with like-minded widget collectors. You'll learn a lot. As a bonus, when you go to buy more widgets in an "iffy" marketplace such as a flea market or an online auction, it will be harder for you to be fooled by reproductions.

Common and Uncommon ways to tell real from reproductions...

• Graniteware [or Agate or Enamelware]... 

This sturdy utilitarian metalware is very collectible and now, very much reproduced. To tell a real old piece from a reproduction takes some experience handling old and new pieces. Generally look for good heft to indicate old pieces. The newer pieces are much lighter and have a definite 'tinny' feel. Also, look closely at the color if mottled. The old pieces have several thick layers of enameling because they were dipped in the coating, not painted or sprayed. Newer pieces usual have only one or two rather thin layers because they are machine spray-applied, and probably even with a computer controlled paint thickness -- down to the micron.

• Cast Iron Banks, Doorstops and other iron items...

 Collector's books help tremendously with identification here, but if you don't have a book handy, check the following: Old pieces of cast iron have parts that meet smoothly and very tightly at the seams -- without large gaps. If there is signs of edges being filed, it has been done by hand with a file, not by a rotary tool. The screws that hold any pieces together should have "regular" slotted screw heads not Phillips head screw heads - but do be aware screws can be changed. Paint should be more matte than shiny - very shiny 'plastic' feeling paint is probably new acrylics. Smell it! Yes, smell it - new paint can still have a scent. Examine the interior [with a flashlight if you can't take it apart] and look for manufacturer's marks. Old pieces are often patent dated inside if not on the outside. Look for genuine signs of age; look at the wear patterns on the bottom surfaces with a loupe or magnifying glass. Irregular wear patterns = good wear. Even cross-hatching scratches on the bottom surface = bad wear. Lack of 'good wear' on surfaces or regular back and forth marks indicate a new item made to look old.

• Rust...

Remember the general rule: old rusts brown, new rusts orange. In general, old objects rust with a deep rich brown coloration, while newer, especially artificially aged iron tends to rust very vibrant, almost sickly orange. I'm not a chemist, and I don't know the reason behind this, but is a general rule of thumb that I use, and seems to be true.

Another way to tell reproductions from the real thing in cast iron is their dimensions or size. Repros by their very way they are made -- usually from molds taken from originals -- tend to be just a bit smaller than the originals. If you know documented sizes of the original piece, knowing the size of an object may be a clue as to whether or not it is a repro. Sizes are usually given in collector's guide books. This is particularly appropriate to iron coin banks and doorstops. 

• Glass - Depression Glass...

Books on Depression Glass are certainly the official way to go here as well as joining Depression Glass societies that keep members abreast of the latest reproduction sightings.

Otherwise, a pocket blacklight can be helpful to distinguish old from new [pre WWII glass glows under blacklight generally, while newer does not]. Blacklight will also help reveal any repairs or defects [cracks or chips]. Old depression glass is thinner and finer than most new reproductions. Reproductions tend to be heavier and have less finely molded details or even has some missing details. Sometimes repro depression glass is not the correct size or color [color too deep or too pale] - this is where you need a good guide book to look up sizes and colors.

• Wood...

With antique wooden objects, especially those that are not mass manufactured, determining age becomes much more of the art of observation, but really is just an exercise in common sense and ability to take the time to think and understand how things age. Old wood shrinks with time. Cracks develop naturally along the grain; the wood darkens with dust and as the oils in the wood oxidize with air and newer nicks in the wood should look very different than the old surface. Bowls turn oval with age, skinny or long things bend slightly with the grain; things that have lids often stick. Where wood things have been used they show wear, and patina - with dirt, food, hand oils, etc. Where iron nails have contacted wood, staining from the iron enters the wood - and one should easily see staining into the wood if the object is truly old.  Painted wood has its own criteria - use your nose first - is the paint smell noticeable? yes? obviously, you have new paint. Look for nails - old paint generally falls off the nails first. Look for layers of paint at the edges and corners-most painted things have more than one layer [but not always]. Old paint on antique objects tapers and wears at points where hands would have constantly touched it. The wear should be gradual, gentle, and the underlying wood darkened and the paint, smooth - if it looks like someone took sandpaper to new wood -- they probably did!

Consistency and form - On wood objects, be aware of consistency and form. Consistency meaning consistency of age thoughout the object: That is, if you see a well-worn box or carrier, with nice patina on the edges, etc, but it has something, let's say carved into it -- but the carving edges are still sharp, you can presume that the carving is new even if the box or other object is old. Be aware of what you may be buying - a fantasy object. For example - what comes to my mind are the old Chinese rice carriers or scoops in wood, that do indeed have age -- but have had new carving added to them. The carving is sometimes names of old American companies - like Ivory Soap (c) or Borden's Milk, or similar, and the carriers are then sold as old and genuine American antiques.

Form refers to the shape an object was typically made. Again, using the above example, the Chinese rice carrier. This shape was not produced in America. Similar can be said for objects that are claimed to be from one country or another - do a reality check and ask yourself: Is the form is unusual for this country? Is it really from where the seller says it is? Maybe, if that form of "Pennsylvania German" antique is so unusual, it may indeed be old, but it is really a piece from another country.

• In conclusion...

Again, knowledge of your object, before you buy, is the most valuble thing you can obtain. Still, all of us have, at one time or another, bought something that wasn't quite what we thought it was. Hopefully, it is never a tremendously expensive error - or at least able to be chalked up as a cheap tuition on a learning experience.

Yet, armed with some greater understanding of what to look for when you shop for genuine objects, you will be much more confident when you make a purchase. 

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I hope this guide has helped, and I hope you will take a look at my other guides on ebay. 

---- Helene.