The Victorian Era is broken into three periods:

• early or Romantic period 1837-1860

• mid or Grand period 1860-1885

• late or Aesthetic period 1885-1901

     The Victorian era coincides with the reign of Queen Victoria who became Queen at the age of 18 and who during this period, had a major influence on jewelry fashion. Queen Victoria reigned from 1837 until her death in 1901. Consequently, many pieces of jewelry can be referred to as Victorian.

     There is never a clear cut line dividing these periods. Some styles and motifs continued to be popular for longer periods of time in some areas. Styles also tended to overlap. A style that was going out in England could be at its peak of popularity here in the US.

       Precise dating can be difficult unless there are clues like a maker’s marks, hallmarks with date letters, or engraved date inscriptions. More often than not, nineteenth century jewelry is unmarked. Some findings (catches, types of pins used, etc.) can help in identifying periods, although many were used for the entire Victorian era and continued to be used into the twentieth century. Furthermore, pieces with intrinsic value (precious metals and stones) have not always survived intact. Alterations and modifications are common.

     More jewelry was produced during the nineteenth century than in all previous centuries combined. The Industrial Revolution, and mass production, an ever growing middle class, and a changing social climate all contributed to this fact. Women were seen and not heard; and the jewelry they wore reflected the husband’s status.

ENAMEL ETCHED COIN SILVER POCKET WATCH

     In contrast to the dandies of the eighteenth century, nineteenth century men were relatively conservative, leaving their diamond-studded buckles, buttons and other adornments home. The primary decorative element was the pocket watch with all its accouterments. Chains, fobs, seals, and charms dangled from men’s vests. Emphasis was on the mounting and not the stones. The whims and fancies of nobility and famous people have always influenced the jewelry and clothing fashions of the general public ever since the days of Cleopatra. 

     Another factor that contributed to the materials used in any period pieces was availability. Gold was extremely rare until its discovery in California in 1849 and South Africa in the 1860's. It wasn’t until then that jewelers and designers began making gold pieces of a bolder style. Diamonds were also used extensively due to a discovery of diamond deposits in South Africa.