Women became more liberated; they were working and the Universities opened their doors to them. They also demanded their right to vote.

     Diamonds were more popular than ever due to the advent of the electric light in 1879; therefore, faceted gems and diamonds looked great all the time. 

     Queen Victoria relaxed her strict rules of mourning a little, much to the relief of her subjects. Fashions changed -- Princess Alexandra, was already a trend-setter, a fashionable woman who stood out in much the same way that today’s Princess of Wales, Diana, outshined dowdy, matronly Queen Elizabeth II. Fabrics were lighter, lines simpler.

     Delicate lace replaced heavy fringes. After a short period of emphasis, the bustle became a vestige of its former self as fullness transferred to leg-o’-mutton and balloon sleeves. Collars grew higher and tighter; the tailored look was in vogue. 

     One of the only remaining extravagances was the headgear. Hats were large and decorated profusely with bows, ribbons, lace, flowers, plumes, feathers and, sometimes entire birds. Ornamental hatpins grew to great lengths to keep them in place.

     The large heavy looking pieces of jewelry were replaced with a lighthearted, light-colored delicate look.

ANTIQUE VICTORIAN DIAMOND 14K GOLD LAVALIERE NECKLACE

     Early feminist rebelled against these fashions and no longer wore any jewelry at all during the day.

     Still, diamonds were the stone of choice for evening wear among women of wealth and status. Earrings shrank to diminutive proportions; sometimes they were nothing more than a single small stone, pearl or stud.

     By the end of the century, women were beginning to look upon ear-piercing as a barbaric practice. Hence, the screw back was invented; and by 1920, it was predominant.

     With the death of Queen Victoria in 1901, a prolific era of jewelry making was nearing its end. The Victorian age, however, did not end with the Queen’s death; it held sway until World War I. But while a large proportion of the populace continued to cling to late Victorian fashions, three more stylistic trends emerged to establish themselves among various segments of society by the turn of the century.

     This did not happen over night. Edwardian style had already begun to make its mark on fashionable society long before Edward became King. 

     Aesthetic influences that led to the Arts and Crafts movement had made their presence felt as early as the mid ninetieth century. And the “new art” had made its debut in Paris in the 1890’s.

     So, in fact, at the turn of the century, there were four concurrent jewelry styles: Victorian, Edwardian, Arts and Crafts, and Art Nouveau.