Antique Ethnic Coral Beads

The main origin for most antique coral was the Mediterranean Sea.  It was often traded to countries in exchange for spices and other items that were highly valued in Europe.  Italy was well known for its coral.  This guide focuses on North African coral beads and Yemeni Coral beads.

In Yemen, coral was traded in branch form and it was shaped into beads by the local tribes.  Most Yemeni coral beads are well worn and range in color from salmon pink to dark orange/red.  Although some have more of a rounded barrel shape, most Yemeni beads tend to have a disk-like or cylindrical shape.  The beads often have white matrix.  Occasionally one will find beads that appear to be faceted.  The facets were where the bead was sanded into the desired shape.  Through the years, the facets would be worn away and a more smooth bead would result.  Coral was valued in Yemen for its ability to protect (often from the evil eye) and heal.  It was often paired with silver and collected as a form of wealth.

North Africans, the Berber tribes in particular, tended to favor more organic shapes.  Branch coral beads were very popular.  Bordering the Mediterranean Sea, North Africans (especially Moroccans and Algerians) had excellent access to coral.  Often coral would wash up along the beaches after storms.  Branch coral was painstakingly drilled by hand from both ends to achieve a long, organic tube-shaped bead.  North Africans prefered to string coral with amber, silver, amaxonite, and shells, or to set formed cabochons in silver and enamel jewelry (as seen in Algerian Kabyle Berber work).  North African coral beads tend to be either in branch form, more roundly formed (than Yemeni beads), or large and chunky.  While North African coral beads come in colors from orange to the highly valued ox blood red, it tends to be be a bit darker in color and not have white matrix.  North African coral tends to have a richness in color that surpasses most Yemeni coral beads; it is slightly more translucent than its more opaque cousin, Yemeni coral.  THERE ARE ALWAYS EXCEPTIONS TO THE RULE!  It takes years of practice to learn the often subtle differences, and no expert is correct all of the time!  Antique Moroccan, and to some extent, Algerian coral beads often have a special patina (commonly known as "ambergris") that accumulates in the cracks, holes, and niches of the beads.  The Berbers were known for rubbing incense onto their jewelry for both the pleasant fragrance and for protection against the ever-present evil eye.  This incense was usually a mix of musk, attar of roses, cloves, olive or argan oil, and other spices.  Over time, the incense was rubbed with fingers and made its way into the tiny areas of the jewelry were it created a rich, semi-translucent, dark brown patina.  Even now, when rubbed, this patina often produces a faintly pleasant incence scent.  Yemeni coral beads lack this patina.  Antique coral beads from both areas can be found in every state from highly polished to completely matte.  Wearing your antique coral beads on your skin will bring out their luster more. 

This guide is meant to be an informative tool.  Should you have any suggestions or questions, please do not hesitate to contact us!

Cheers, Abdu and Hillary of alqator / Ethnic Embellishments