Few items are more personal and more useful to you on a daily basis than your wallet. In addition to your watch and keys, you are probably going to carry your wallet with you everywhere that you go. And like your watch, it says something about you (to yourself and to others).

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BASIC REQUIREMENTS FOR YOUR WALLET:

Your wallet needs to be:

1) FUNCTIONAL in safely holding all the items that you deem critical,

2) PRACTICAL in size, shape, comfort in carrying, and in it's relative cost over its useful life

3) STYLISH as an indication of your sense of style.

In each of these areas, alligator, crocodile and other exotic leather (especially stingray) wallets have significant advantages over all other wallets, particularly wallets made from cow/calf leather. Typically, the only perceived disadvantages to an alligator or crocodile wallet is its initial cost (not its cost per year over its useful life) and a difficulty in finding a selection of premium quality wallets to choose from.

This guide explores all of these issues.

As in buying in anything of value, do some research and only buy from people with a solid reputation. Because of the premium prices commanded by alligator and crocodile items, there is a great deal of mislabeling and misrepresentation of the animal species and the quality of the skins. Be careful, but don't be discouraged from buying a beautiful gift for someone special, including yourself

STYLES / FORMATS OF WALLETS:

There are four basic styles for mens wallets:

1) Standard / Hipster (a.k.a. "US-style" ) Horizontal Format :

By far the most common type of wallet in the USA. Named "Hipster" because it is most often carried in a man's hip-pocket, or the back pocket in a pair of pants. Available in a range of sizes, including the most common 6 or 8 pocket bilfold/billfold/bi-fold (referring to credit card pockets; some larger versions hold 10 or 12 credit cards) It is generally the size and shape of a US Dollar Bill.

Variations include various flip-up/flip-out sections, ID windows, and due to increased need to show your ID, a "Pass Case" version that has a removable section to hold your ID and maybe a credit card and some cash.

Another variation is the tri-fold (which could also be classified in the Vertical format below); these are for guys that can't quite crap enough stuff into a regular wallet. You probably know or have seen someone with an >2" thick wallet with all of their "essentials" in it . Since no one can actually sit all day on a wallet like this, most tri-folds often are carried around by hand like a purse.

2) Vertical Format, "a.k.a. Hong Kong -style":

Is taller than it is wide. While it is wide enough to hold an unfolded US Dollar Bill, it is designed to hold some of the much taller foreign currencies as well. Like the standard format (above) these Vertical Format wallets have variations that include various flip-up/flip-out sections and ID windows.

3) Front-Pocket Wallet :

An increasingly popular design as more men recognize that they have relatively few items that are so essential, as to be on your person at all times. While a US Dollar Bill must be folded (in half or thirds) to fit inside, these smaller format wallets have plenty of room for your drivers' license, 2 to 4 credit cards and several business cards or the equivalent.

Users of these wallets often use a money clip to hold the smaller dollar denominations, which has the benefit of being able to keep your wallet in your pocket while paying for most items/activities.

The added advantages of this format is that your wallet is more secure from pick-pockets, and that you can avoid the potential health issues in nerve damage from sitting on a larger wallet all day.

4) Breast-Coat Pocket (aka "Long" Wallet, or Lapel Wallet):

Associated with a more sophisticated European look (this is the kind of wallet that James Bond carries in his dinner jacket), this format is the most elegant, and in today's less formal world, the least practical. Well-suited for special occasions and for traveling, these large wallets can be expensive, especially when made in alligator. For all of these reasons, most men who use this format also have a primary day to day wallet.

What is the difference between "Alligator" and "Crocodile" leather?

They are similar in several ways, including their classic great looks, relative exclusivity and their ability to look great thru many years of service. However, based upon the species and tanning processes utilized, as well as the body section of the donor animal used, the value and quality of the leather can vary widely.

Generally speaking, (there are a number of variables discussed later), "Alligator" skin is much nicer, with more symmetrical scale patterns, with thicker and softer skin, and with a smoother and more three-dimensional feel than the typical "crocodile" skin. Though relatively rare, top quality skins from the "Nile Crocodile" and Australian "Saltwater Crocodile" are the equal, and in some ways better, than the best alligator.

While there is essentially only one species of alligator ( the "American Alligator" or " alligator mississippiensis"), there are a dozen species of crocodiles, in varied shapes and sizes found all over the world. By far the most common is the Brown Caiman from Central and South America. Most types of crocodile are either endangered or threatened and their commercial trade is restricted by CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species).

Mislabeling of alligator items is often applied to items made from caiman. While caiman skins can be of good quality, caiman skin is relatively thinner and due to the less sophisticated tanning processes on finished products from South America, it is often dryer, stiffer and less durable than even the lesser quality alligator skins. For a buyer, it is unfortunate that this dryness cannot be seen in photos. Caiman can often be identified by small pits in their scales, which is far more common in caiman relative to other crocodiles, and is non-existent in genuine alligator.

What about the shape, size and pattern of the scales?

In addition to the species of alligator/crocodile, the quality of the skin varies from animal to animal and from what part of the body the skin is sourced. For smooth-skinned items, the premium sections include the central belly and throat areas where the scales are the largest, the most symmetrical around the center-line of the belly: these scales are somewhat rectangular in shape. The sides can also be very good quality; skin from the sides has scales that are more rounded in shape and the skin is a bit thinner.The least desirable section is the tail (which can represent 50% of the animal's length); the tail skin is stiffer, has more widely spaced scales, and is more heavily scared (scarring is normal and validates that the skin is genuine; a little scarring is interesting). Portions of the tail are suitable for internal or hidden sections of a wallet or purse, or for belts.

The size of the donor animal is also important. This can offer a clue to distinguish alligator from caiman, since caiman skins usually come from smaller animals (3 to 5 feet in length; compared to 6 to 12 feet for the typical alligator or Nile Croc). With a smaller donor animal the pattern and size of the scales transitions rapidly over the small area of the wallet or purse, such that the shape of the crocodile's body/head/tail is clearly apparent; this can be a good thing depending on the application.

What about the "CLASSIC" (high-gloss) versus the "SAFARI" (semi-gloss and more natural) finish?

Alligator and crocodile skins are available in a variety of colors and in two primary types of finishes, the CLASSIC high-gloss, and the SAFARI gloss or semi-gloss. Your choice of finish should depend upon the application and the type of luxury item.

The CLASSIC finish is the more processed, smooth shiny patent leather look that was historically associated with the the finest quality exotic leather luxury items. To achieve this high gloss, a natural protein (typically albumen or raw egg-whites) is polished into the skins under high-pressure. Using a hard smooth object under the force of a high pressure glazing jack, the skin is compressed and polished to a high-gloss shine. The resulting skin is a smooth, thin high-gloss leather with tightly spaced scales (the tighter the scale pattern, the higher the pressure utilized). The downside is that the skin is relatively stiff, and less durable. This finish has long been favored by European manufacturers, because it actually expands the usable area of the skin and hides otherwise visible imperfections. Since this surface can be more easily damaged by abrasion or frequent bending, this classic finish is well suited to flat surfaced luxury items that do not require much dynamic movement, examples are a breast-pocket wallet, a lady's flat-sided evening bag , a front-pocket wallet and other items that are protected within a purse or briefcase such as business card holders.

The SAFARI finish is increasingly more popular due to its understated, semi-gloss look, and its exceptional durability. Safari finish is the result of low-speed, low-pressure buffing using a combination of natural waxes and oils. It retains the natural scale pattern and the minor imperfections characteristic of a genuine alligator or crocodile skin. Rather than looking worse for wear over time and use, the patina of the safari look actually gets richer and deeper looking. In addition to the practical wear advantages, there is a growing preference for this more natural look, which is difficult to imitate.

Some items cannot be easily categorized into one or the other (classic vs. safari) category. For example, to achieve some of the best qualities of both finishes, most of the "classic" items that we offer can be best described as 2/3 classic & 1/3 safari. This combination offers a relatively high gloss finish, with durability approaching that of the safari finish.

What is "HORNBACK" ?

Hornback refers to the horn-like scales found along the back of the alligator or crocodile. Hornback items have an interesting and unique texture, as compared to "smooth" or "belly" skin.

COLORS?

Alligators are naturally colored to be camouflaged in their green and brown surroundings, so there skins are naturally a dull combination of Gray-Brown-Green. Thru the tanning and dyeing process, the skins can be dyed to almost any color. While black and browns are the most common colors, beautiful gray/silver, reds, oranges, and blue are also available. Consistency and depth of color is important, and is easier to achieve with the darker or more vivid the color; lighter colors can be inconsistent and discolor easily over time.