Native Alaskan Athabascan & Eskimo women create amazing works of art using a traditional form of applique beadwork. Traditionally, the beads are sewn directly onto smoked moose hide or seal skin, but more modern techniques incorporate other soft leathers like tanned pig skin.  The technique has not changed in the past 100 years: it is done with 2 separate strands of thread and 2 separate needles. One needle is used to thread the small beads, while the other is used to stitch that thread down to the leather - typically after every 2 beads. A pattern is drawn directly onto to leather, or a piece of paper or felt with the pattern drawn onto it is sewn onto to the leather & then the beading is done over it. The beader starts from the outside of her pattern and then works her way in to the middle. You can tell a good, quality piece by how tight the beads are on the material, and how well they fit into the middle of the design. Beginners (like me) typically leave a gap where another row of beads cannot fit in the center of the design.

Alaskan patterns are not geometric, but use more of a free-form design with flowers, birds, fish & animals. Traditionally, beadwork was used to decorate clothing and accessories like bags and useful items like baby belts (used to 'pack' a baby on one's back). The more elaborate designs were used on 'fancy' dress clothing for dances and ceremonies.   The most popular items now made for sale (typically to tourists) are hair barettes, gloves, and slippers. Fancy leather vests and jackets (made for men) are almost always made for use and never sold.

In the Upper Tanana Valley (Interior Alaska near the Canadian Border) another technique, called Caribou Tufting, is used. In this method, a piece of caribou hide (with fur) is died a bright color. The fur is then cut off in a chunk and sewn onto a piece of leather or hide (much like making a pom pom). After it is fastened onto the leather, it is then cut into a shape - typically a flower petal.  Porcupine needles are frequently flattened and used as a border in these designs.

This form of beadwork is easy to learn, but very, very hard to become really good at. It is a very time-consuming and labor-intensive process. Each piece takes many, many hours to complete, with large pieces taking well over 80 hours to finish. So, when looking at a higher-priced piece of beadwork on Ebay, remember how much time when into it, and know that you are investing in a piece of art that will last in your family for generations!