Use caution when interpreting the descriptions of items that come up under a search for Civil War era clothing, Reenactment attire, or Period dress
The terms "Vintage", "Victorian", "Authentic", "Civil War", "Reenactment", "Reproduction", "Historic" and "Period" get used readily in item descriptions, but often are not accurate. You have to beware of taking descriptions at face value. Most often, if an item is inaccurately claimed to be one of those things, it's not necessarily that the seller is purposely misrepresenting the item but that they don't really have any idea what they are talking about. If you are at all concerned with genuine accuracy, do a little research to find accurate information and even photographic examples to compare your item to.
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"Vintage" implies that the item is actually "from the times of" whatever period the item is supposed to represent, but is all too often used to mean "used" or "old".
- I.E.: If used accurately, a vintage Civil War era dress will be a dress that was actually made or worn in the period between about 1858 and 1866, not one that just looks like it was. For anything else, it would be more accurate to say something like "vintage appearance". Truly vintage Civil War era items are quite suitable for using as guidelines for appearance, but are more collector or museum items than appropriate to wear, except on the very rarest of occasions with extreme care taken to protect and preserve them.
"Victorian" implies that the item is from, or made to reflect, the era in history when Queen Victoria reigned - the years from 1837 through 1901. In many descriptions, it seems that the writer thinks it just means 'old fashioned', even for items from as late as the 1980's!
The Victorian Age or Era does span several decades, though, so it is important to note that fashions, especially women's fashions, changed a lot in that period. Again, a little time spent researching for info and photos will help you see what is accurate and what is not.
"Authentic" implies that the item is real, actually vintage, or reproduced to match the original, or at least accurately similar, but often gets used to mean just 'similar'. It is correctly contrasted with "Reproduction".
"Reproduction" should indicate that, although the item was made more recently, care was taken to accurately reproduce the original style and materials. An authentic, or accurate historic reproduction might even mean that the original methods of production were used - i.e.: hand stitched seams and button holes, original plates used for printing the fabric, etc.
"Original" implies that the item is an authentic piece from the actual period, as compared with a "Reproduction".
"Civil War" should indicate some relevance to the US Civil War, or another similar political event in another country. It is a good idea to specify "US Civil War" when searching, to eliminate some extraneous items.
"Reenactment" and reenactors are also sometimes used inaccurately. Historical Reenacting means recreating, as accurately as feasible, the life, fashions, living skills, and events of a past historical time, using fabrics, materials, and patterns that are very similar to, or reproductions of, the original. Be aware though, that just because something is listed as 'for the reenactor', or is, or looks, old, doesn't make it accurate to the time period being reenacted. Reenactors do not wear costumes, they recreate period dress. Did I mention doing a bit of research?
"Period" indicates the period in time, in this case the Civil War period - 1860-1865. 'Period appropriate' or 'Period dress' means accurate to the period, whether original or reproduction. As with the other terms though, just because it is used in the description, doesn't mean it is used properly.
In other words, A prom dress made from polyester, with a zipper in the back, is not at all appropriate for anyone interested in proper period attire for a Civil War Ball, but you will find many such items in a search for a Civil War dress or gown. No matter how many lovely descriptive words are used, it just isn't going to turn into a silk ball gown of the appropriate style. Pretty, maybe, but a waste of your money if you are serious about fitting the times. I have several to offer as proof. LOL! NOTE: if you are just wanting to wear a pretty dress to a fancy ball, but don't care a fig for accuracy, or that serious folks will get a laugh out of it, go ahead and go for the poly prom queen dress. You'll have fun and you really don't care about the history. Otherwise, keep looking.
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A general few hints on what to look for :
Fabrics :
Styles :
Women's fashions :
Check those fabric notes above first, then...
For an accurate period look you will need a real corset, not a pretend one. Real corsets are actually pretty comfortable, while the 'pretend' ones are excruciatingly uncomfortable after a very short time. I do suggest you go for an accurate one, made to fit your measurements. It costs about three times as much, but it will look much better and keep you from showing that 'pinched' look from the stress and pain of wearing a poor one.
Men's fashions : Men's fashions didn't change as drastically as women's did, so you will have a bit more leeway in getting the look that you need.
Shoes :
Remember - research is your friend. A little time spent looking things up is more than a little money you won't waste buying things that won't work.
The terms "Vintage", "Victorian", "Authentic", "Civil War", "Reenactment", "Reproduction", "Historic" and "Period" get used readily in item descriptions, but often are not accurate. You have to beware of taking descriptions at face value. Most often, if an item is inaccurately claimed to be one of those things, it's not necessarily that the seller is purposely misrepresenting the item but that they don't really have any idea what they are talking about. If you are at all concerned with genuine accuracy, do a little research to find accurate information and even photographic examples to compare your item to.
NOTE: I am not an expert on the Civil War era, nor on reenactments, and this is not intended as a definitive source, and certainly not a substitute for research.
I am working to become more accurate in my own portrayal of a civilian of the period. Our band performs for Civil War Balls and at reenactment events, so my main focus is on civilian attire appropriate for public events, rather than the day-to-day or military life. While in that search, and helping others in my group find acceptable attire, I have noticed a lot of descriptive problems in items that come up in my eBay searches. I will share them here in the hopes that it might help others avoid buying items that really don't suit their purposes at all.
I am working to become more accurate in my own portrayal of a civilian of the period. Our band performs for Civil War Balls and at reenactment events, so my main focus is on civilian attire appropriate for public events, rather than the day-to-day or military life. While in that search, and helping others in my group find acceptable attire, I have noticed a lot of descriptive problems in items that come up in my eBay searches. I will share them here in the hopes that it might help others avoid buying items that really don't suit their purposes at all.
----------------------------
"Vintage" implies that the item is actually "from the times of" whatever period the item is supposed to represent, but is all too often used to mean "used" or "old".
- I.E.: If used accurately, a vintage Civil War era dress will be a dress that was actually made or worn in the period between about 1858 and 1866, not one that just looks like it was. For anything else, it would be more accurate to say something like "vintage appearance". Truly vintage Civil War era items are quite suitable for using as guidelines for appearance, but are more collector or museum items than appropriate to wear, except on the very rarest of occasions with extreme care taken to protect and preserve them.
"Victorian" implies that the item is from, or made to reflect, the era in history when Queen Victoria reigned - the years from 1837 through 1901. In many descriptions, it seems that the writer thinks it just means 'old fashioned', even for items from as late as the 1980's!
The Victorian Age or Era does span several decades, though, so it is important to note that fashions, especially women's fashions, changed a lot in that period. Again, a little time spent researching for info and photos will help you see what is accurate and what is not.
"Authentic" implies that the item is real, actually vintage, or reproduced to match the original, or at least accurately similar, but often gets used to mean just 'similar'. It is correctly contrasted with "Reproduction".
"Reproduction" should indicate that, although the item was made more recently, care was taken to accurately reproduce the original style and materials. An authentic, or accurate historic reproduction might even mean that the original methods of production were used - i.e.: hand stitched seams and button holes, original plates used for printing the fabric, etc.
"Original" implies that the item is an authentic piece from the actual period, as compared with a "Reproduction".
"Civil War" should indicate some relevance to the US Civil War, or another similar political event in another country. It is a good idea to specify "US Civil War" when searching, to eliminate some extraneous items.
"Reenactment" and reenactors are also sometimes used inaccurately. Historical Reenacting means recreating, as accurately as feasible, the life, fashions, living skills, and events of a past historical time, using fabrics, materials, and patterns that are very similar to, or reproductions of, the original. Be aware though, that just because something is listed as 'for the reenactor', or is, or looks, old, doesn't make it accurate to the time period being reenacted. Reenactors do not wear costumes, they recreate period dress. Did I mention doing a bit of research?
"Period" indicates the period in time, in this case the Civil War period - 1860-1865. 'Period appropriate' or 'Period dress' means accurate to the period, whether original or reproduction. As with the other terms though, just because it is used in the description, doesn't mean it is used properly.
In other words, A prom dress made from polyester, with a zipper in the back, is not at all appropriate for anyone interested in proper period attire for a Civil War Ball, but you will find many such items in a search for a Civil War dress or gown. No matter how many lovely descriptive words are used, it just isn't going to turn into a silk ball gown of the appropriate style. Pretty, maybe, but a waste of your money if you are serious about fitting the times. I have several to offer as proof. LOL! NOTE: if you are just wanting to wear a pretty dress to a fancy ball, but don't care a fig for accuracy, or that serious folks will get a laugh out of it, go ahead and go for the poly prom queen dress. You'll have fun and you really don't care about the history. Otherwise, keep looking.
----------------------------------------
A general few hints on what to look for :
Fabrics :
Yes - 100% Cotton, 100% Silk, Wool, Hemp, Linen, blends of any of the previous, and *some* rayon trims
No - Polyester, Acrylic, nylon, rayon, or blends that include any of these
No - Polyester, Acrylic, nylon, rayon, or blends that include any of these
Just
because the description says the fabric is 'silk', doesn't mean it
really is. Many sellers use "silk" to describe a texture rather than
the fabric content. Do a Web Search for "Burn Test" for instructions on finding out what a fabric's content actually is.
Watch out for prints - even if the fabric content is correct, not all prints are realistic to the times.
Again, a little time spent searching the web will help you find information and photos to compare to.
Watch out for prints - even if the fabric content is correct, not all prints are realistic to the times.
Again, a little time spent searching the web will help you find information and photos to compare to.
Styles :
Some modern sewing patterns have historical research behind them, and can give you a more accurate appearance. Some are designed as costumes, and therefore not reliant on accuracy at all, while others are specifically for reproduction. Look for 'History' or 'Period' in the pattern titles, as well as 'Civil War'.
The movie 'Gone with the Wind' is not a good guide for genuine fashions of the times because historical accuracy was not a big priority for costumes in the movie. They may be beautiful, but they will not get you points for accuracy.
The Cowboy era came right after the Civil War era, so such styles are not really appropriate.
There is more than one focus for Civil War reenacting. Military and Civilian. The requirements for military dress are usually well defined by the reenactment groups. Civilian attire is less clearly defined.
The movie 'Gone with the Wind' is not a good guide for genuine fashions of the times because historical accuracy was not a big priority for costumes in the movie. They may be beautiful, but they will not get you points for accuracy.
The Cowboy era came right after the Civil War era, so such styles are not really appropriate.
There is more than one focus for Civil War reenacting. Military and Civilian. The requirements for military dress are usually well defined by the reenactment groups. Civilian attire is less clearly defined.
Women's fashions :
Check those fabric notes above first, then...
For an accurate period look you will need a real corset, not a pretend one. Real corsets are actually pretty comfortable, while the 'pretend' ones are excruciatingly uncomfortable after a very short time. I do suggest you go for an accurate one, made to fit your measurements. It costs about three times as much, but it will look much better and keep you from showing that 'pinched' look from the stress and pain of wearing a poor one.
Day -
work dress, day dress, visiting dress - often consisting of a skirt, bodice and jacket,
For daytime or work, the whiteness of collars etc. wasn't so crucial, but for dress occasions, ladies would usually want bright white rather than cream or ecru, and white gloves, with formal attire for gents at night.
Ball -
two piece dress of very full skirt topped by a fitted bodice (this is where the corset really earns its price). A silk shawl with a paisley pattern is lovely and accurate. A hair decoration that coordinates with the gown. Snoods are an item that gets argued about. They were worn, but not as common as one would think seeing the results of a search. A hoop skirt is appropriate for all but work dresses, though not actually required. Skirts end up a little shorter when worn over a hoop skirt. They look best with a smooth slip over them, and do require some getting used to.
Ball Gowns were apparently not usually made in dark colors because the halls were usually only lit with candles, so the dress would effectively blend into the background, making the wearer appear as a floating head. (Why the same is not considered true for men is possibly that their white shirts showed more, to better identify their body. ... Perhaps the men were less concerned with having their fashion sense noted.)
work dress, day dress, visiting dress - often consisting of a skirt, bodice and jacket,
For daytime or work, the whiteness of collars etc. wasn't so crucial, but for dress occasions, ladies would usually want bright white rather than cream or ecru, and white gloves, with formal attire for gents at night.
Ball -
two piece dress of very full skirt topped by a fitted bodice (this is where the corset really earns its price). A silk shawl with a paisley pattern is lovely and accurate. A hair decoration that coordinates with the gown. Snoods are an item that gets argued about. They were worn, but not as common as one would think seeing the results of a search. A hoop skirt is appropriate for all but work dresses, though not actually required. Skirts end up a little shorter when worn over a hoop skirt. They look best with a smooth slip over them, and do require some getting used to.
Ball Gowns were apparently not usually made in dark colors because the halls were usually only lit with candles, so the dress would effectively blend into the background, making the wearer appear as a floating head. (Why the same is not considered true for men is possibly that their white shirts showed more, to better identify their body. ... Perhaps the men were less concerned with having their fashion sense noted.)
Men's fashions : Men's fashions didn't change as drastically as women's did, so you will have a bit more leeway in getting the look that you need.
Pants
Check those fabric notes above first, then...
Yes - yoke back, button fly, button suspenders, sombre colors
No - belt loops, zippers, back pockets, front creases or pleated fronts
Coats :
Wool, linen, cotton, etc.
Daytime,
sack coat, morning coat, or frock coat.
Balls,
tails, white or gray gloves. Gents would not usually remove their jackets, would always wear their gloves during the dancing (so as not to soil the ladies with their sweaty man palms), and would not wear their hats indoors.
-----------------------------Check those fabric notes above first, then...
Yes - yoke back, button fly, button suspenders, sombre colors
No - belt loops, zippers, back pockets, front creases or pleated fronts
Coats :
Wool, linen, cotton, etc.
Daytime,
sack coat, morning coat, or frock coat.
Balls,
tails, white or gray gloves. Gents would not usually remove their jackets, would always wear their gloves during the dancing (so as not to soil the ladies with their sweaty man palms), and would not wear their hats indoors.
Shoes :
Your safest bet is black leather, with blunt, or squared, but not pointy toes. Do not torture yourself with uncomfortable shoes. Remember that 'pinched' look I mentioned for poorly fitted corsets... the same will trouble you if your shoes don't fit well.... trust me.
Remember - research is your friend. A little time spent looking things up is more than a little money you won't waste buying things that won't work.
Guide created: 02/17/08 (updated 06/21/08)
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