We tend to think of oregano as an Italian herb, but it actually figures in a great variety of dishes from around the world.  Orginally native to Portugal, the herb found its way to Greece, Italy, and the Americas centuries ago.  Today we use oregano just as readily as a Mexican chili seasoning as we do in traditional Mediterranean fare.

You can cultivate oregano almost anywhere, often as an annual.  The perenially punget Organum vulgare, an intensely fragrant oregano, needs chalky soil, sharp drainage and hot, dry summers.  Propagate it by seeds, cuttings, layering or root division.  Its creeping root system allows for propagation by division from fall until spring.

In the vegetable garden, oregano makes a fine companion plant for most vegetables, particularly broccoli, as it wards off cabbage butterflies.  Bees love oregano and when the white or mauve flowers open in the summer, you'll likely note a joyful hum and movement around each plant.  Oregano makes a wonderful cut flower as well.

We can count oregano among the few herbs that retain the intensity of their flavor, even when dried.  The best time to harvest oregano is just as the plant begins to bloom.  Cut the entire stalk, flowers and all, leaving two or three inches at the base so the plant will survive, offering a second harvest in late summer.  Tie the fresh stalks in bunches and hang them upside-down to dry in a shaded, ventilated place, out of the sun.  A braid of garlic, a string of tiny hot red peppers and a bunch of dried oregano make an attractive team of useful kitchen decorations.  (Alternatively, lightly crush and store dried oregano leaves and flowers in a small airtight container.)

Oregano's unique flavor and aroma have made this historic herb an indispensable culinary companion.  Use oregano stalks, with leaves and flowres still on, as "brushes" to dip into olive oil and sweep over grilling meats, fish and vegetables.  Certain varieties, such as sweet marjoram, much loved as a culinary herb in the Middle Ages, have a milder fragrance.  Mix together chopped, fresh, sweet marjoram leaves, a pinch of chopped scallions, capers, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and extra virgin olive oil for a smoked salmon condiment that's too good to believe.

Once the secret ingredient to many centuries-old Mediterranean dishes, oregano's magic is common knowledge today.  A pinch strewn over cubed cheese, a drizzle of oil, and some crusty bread still makes a quick, tasty meal (yes, fast food!).  Then there's risotto flavored, with a sprinkle of oregano and freshly grated Romano cheese -- or oregano and a spoonful of capers strewn on hot grilled tuna.  You could start your day with a sprinkle over poached eggs on toast, and end it with a sprig on pasta with shaved Parmesan cheese.  With the hundreds of oregano possibilities available to us these days, Aphrodite must surely be smiling.

SOME OF OUR FAVORITE OREGANO RECIPES:

GRILLED YELLOW SQUASH WITH OREGANO

• 6-8 very small yellow squash, cut in half lengthwise
• 5 Tbls vegetable or olive oil
• 2 tsp dried ( or 1 Tbls fresh, chopped) oregano
• 1 Tbls freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 2 Tbls fresh parsley, finely chopped

Mix ingredients except the squash together, then brush on squash and grill on medium heat, turning often, until squash is tender.  Brush on more oil mixture during grilling; eat while hot.  Serves 3-4.

GRILLED CHICKEN WITH OREGANO

This Americanized version of a delicious Mexican dish calls for Mexican oregano, which has a sharper, more biting flavor than milder oregano.  You may also just use what you have on hand.

• 4 chicken breasts, with skin
• 2 cloves garlic, peeled
• 2 cup chicken broth
• 3 Tbls dried oregano (Mexican, if available) crumbled
• 10 additional garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
• 2 Tbls additional chicken broth
• 1/2 tsp. salt

Arrange the chicken breasts in a skillet in one layer. Add the 2 garlic cloves, onion and chicken broth.  Cover and cook over medium heat, turning the pieces once, until broth has completely reduced and chicken is tender, about 25 minutes.

Crush oregano and the 10 cloves of crushed garlic in a mortar and pestle (or put in blender and pulse-blend briefly) with salt and 2 Tbls water or chicken broth.  With your hands, spread paste over chicken pieces, both sides.  Leave chicken in pan, covered for an hour (away from heat).  Then heat barbecue grill to low and brown the chicken lightly on both sides, brushing with a bit of melted butter or oil as it grills and turning often. Serves 4.

STUFFED MUSHROOMS

• Serve these steaming hot to your friends and family.8-12 oz. large, fresh mushrooms
• 3 Tbls butter
• 1/4 cup finely chopped celery
• 1/4 cup finely chopped onion
• 1/4 cup dry bread crumbs
• 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tsp parsley flakes or 1 Tbls freshly chopped parsley
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 1/8 tsp oregano or 1-2 tsp freshly chopped oregano leaves

Wash and dry mushrooms.  Remove and chop stems.  Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat.  Add mushroom stems, celery, and onion.  Saute until onion is translucent, stirring occasionally.  Stir in bread crumbs, Worcestershire sauce and seasonings.  Mound stuffing onto the mushroom caps.  Arrange caps on a greased baking sheet.  Bake at 375 degrees for about 10 minutes, or until thoroughly heated.  Serves 5-7.

We hope you will enjoy experimenting with Oregano as much as we have.  If you're trying to cut down on salt -- use a tiny pinch of oregano instead.  On fish, meats, zucchini, eggplant, fresh tomatoes or sauce, and salads, oregano brightens flavor, eliminating the need for a sodium boost.