Searching for vintage textiles on eBay can be an overwhelming  proposition. There are many qualified sellers offering an array of striking items and sorting through their auctions can be quite daunting-especially to the novice collector. This guide is the second segment in a three part series which will provide shoppers with a comprehensive list of terms and abbreviations that are commonly used in auction descriptions for vintage linens.

Organdy - A sheer cotton fabric commonly used as an insert in fine linen guest towels, but is also often adorned with applique in larger pieces like placemats & tablecloths.

Pastoral - Depicting a scene reminiscent of early farm life. For example, toile patterns often incorporate grazing cows or sheep.

Redwork - Referring to embroidery worked with turkey red thread, usually on white fabric; often this work reflects a particular style associated with European handwork. Similar designs worked in blue are often called, oddly enough, bluework.

Retro - Commonly used to describe the swanky styles of the 40's and 50's; retro items tend to lean more toward the space age or atomic styles rather than heavy florals. It is important to note that retro may only refer to the style of the item and may or may not indicate that an item is vintage.

Shopping Tip: If an item description doesn't include specific information, don't be afraid to ask the seller for more information. It is the only way you can be sure that what you receive is what you expected! Just as importantly, try to ask questions early so that the seller has time to check e-mails before the auction ends. 

Risque - Used in reference to items that have a slightly 'naughty' or suggestive element. For example, many guest towels from the 40's & 50's featured women wearing peek-a-boo clothing over three-dimensional, padded body parts!

Sailcloth - A heavy, canvas-like cotton fabric often used in printed tablecloths.

Selvage Edge - The woven finish along the edge of a piece of fabric that does not require hemming to prevent fraying. The selvage edge of vintage fabric is often printed with the manufacturer's name, information about the fabric content and dye process and/or the name of the pattern.

Shopping Tip:  Vintage printed tablecloths usually have two selvage edges and two machine hemmed edges. Having four hemmed edges might indicate that the size of the piece has been altered and would tend to suggest that further investigation is needed before placing a bid. 

Signed -  Indicates that the designer incorporated his/her signature into the design. Signatures can sometimes be used to help date a piece. Signed pieces often command higher prices since collector's can be very passionate about their favorite designer.

Sizing - A chemical, similar to starch, which gives unwashed textiles lots of body and a slight sheen when they are new. After washing, a similar effect can be achieved using spray sizing when items are pressed. Like starch, it is unwise to leave sizing on items that will be stored for a long period of time.

Souvenir Print - Textiles which commemorate a special place or event.

Tag - The paper label temporarily attached to unused linen; removed when items are used, the tag often provides information about the manufacturer, pattern name, and/or original selling price. Items still bearing their paper tag are often difficult to find and, therefore, are considered more valuable.

Tea Cloth - The small tablecloth used beneath a tea service; commonly repurposed as table toppers.

Toile - Short for 'Toile de Jouy', which describes a popular French fabric style. Toiles are usually monochromatic and feature scenes of daily life from the past; toile may also be described as pastoral or figural as the scenes often feature people or animals.

Turkey Red- An early dye used to color thread and fabric an intense shade of red. Turkey red dye, from the madder plant, was replaced by synthetic red dyes sometime in the early 20th century. Extreme care should be taken when cleaning items that may contain turkey red dye as the dye process causes the fibers to weaken prematurely.

Vat Dyed - A process in which oxidation is used to produce a fast dye that withstands bleaching better than other dye types.

Whimsical - A design meant to delight with its comical or eccentric nature.

Wilendur or Wilendure -  Manufacturer's brand name for a line of printed tablecloths, kitchen towels and aprons. The Wilendur name is the older of the two, but both represent a line of high quality prints on heavy sailcloth fabric. In eBay auctions, the Wilendur name is often used as a reference point in describing the quality of a particular cloth.

Yellowing - General discoloration of textiles that results from less than perfect storage conditions over a relatively long period of time. Yellowing, which is often most apparent along fold lines, is usually easy to remove by soaking the item in a gentle solution appropriate for vintage textiles.

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