Searching for vintage textiles on eBay can be an overwhelming proposition. There are many qualified sellers offering an array of striking items and sorting through their auctions can be quite daunting--especially to the novice collector. This guide is the first segment in a three part series which will provide shoppers with a comprehensive list of terms and abbreviations that are commonly used in auction descriptions for vintage linens.

Atomic - A term used to describe designs which incorporate geometric patterns originating at about the time the first atomic bomb was introduced; many of the patterns are stylized versions of scientific phenomena, for example, starbursts, orbs, and amoeba.

Applique - A process by which smaller pieces of fabric are stitched or ‘applied’ to the main textile in order to accent a design element by adding color or texture.

Anthropomorphic - Giving human characteristics to an inanimate object. For example, fruits, vegetables and appliances are frequently given smiling faces in printed or embroidered kitchen textiles.

Art Deco - Commonly used to describe linens which reflect the popular architectural trend of the mid 1920’s to early 1940’s. Characteristics would include stylized florals and geometrics.

Barkcloth - A heavily textured, nubby fabric used in drapery & upholstery projects.

Cutwork - A process by which pieces of fabric are cut away to accent design elements. Cut areas are usually embroidered to prevent fraying and may also be replaced with decorative lace or organdy.

Cutter - Used to describe a textile which has sufficient damage as to render it unsuitable for its original purpose. Cutters, usually available at a much lower price, are often used as fabric for sewing and craft projects.

Shopping Tip: If you aren’t looking for ‘mint’ pieces to add to a collection, but prefer something that you can use daily without worry, search eBay for cutters. Some sellers catagorize pieces with only minor flaws as cutters and they can often be purchased at a reduced rate.

Drawnwork - A process by which threads of the actual fabric are painstakingly removed or rearranged to create an intricate lace-like design.

Eames Era - a term used to refer to pieces from the mid-1950’s & early 1960’s which incorporate a certain style reminiscent of American designer Charles Eames.

Ethnic - Textile pieces which reflect the unique cultural heritage of specific groups of people. In vintage textiles, this most commonly refers to Mexican or Black Americana themed designs.

Figural - A design which features realistic human or animal figures. A good example would be a French toile that incorporates peasants and livestock in a depiction of early French farm life.

Hemstitching - A decorative drawnwork technique used to finish the edge of many vintage textile pieces.

Huck - A textured cotton or linen fabric. It is often seen in damask bath or hand towels.

Lapkin - A very large dinner napkin, usually damask, in excess of 26 inches square.

Label - A fabric piece, printed with identifying information (most commonly the manufacturer’s name), which is sewn into the seam or hem of a vintage textile.

Lot - Individual pieces, grouped together and sold for one price.

Madeira - Handmade textiles that were produced on the island of Madeira. This term is associated with a certain style which incorporates very fine linen, often in pastel colors, which is hand embroidered with padded satin stitching and sometimes incorporates cutwork and organdy inserts.

Marghab - A group of extremely high quality hand-embroidered textiles, designed and produced under the supervision of Vera Way Marghab. This term applies only to the specific group of approximately 300 patterns which her company created.

Shopping Tip: Be wary of sellers who use the term Marghab in a generic sense--Marghab doesn't just mean any high quality piece of hand embroidery. If you are paying for Marghab make sure you are receiving Marghab!

Mitered Corner - A technique used when finishing a piece of square or rectangular linen; much like a picture frame, the corners of the piece are turned under and stitched to meet at a 45 degree angle.

Mod - Designed with elements which are reminiscent of the ‘mod’ or modern fashion styles of the 1960’s.

You have just finished reading a bohobetty guide to vintage linens.

For more bohobetty guides or to see my current auctions, please click here!