What is up with all those numbers on my suit?  Here is a short guide to help sort it out.

There are all kinds of cloth material out there- wool, cashmere, vicuna etc.  

Wool worsteds are usually made from Merino wool (which usually means Australian and New Zealand Merino sheep) and are supplied by all the London and Italian cloth merchants and are among the finest available.

Wool Worsteds are very popular for a reason- they make up very well, and with a little care they can last for years.

They come in a wide range of qualities- but when you're buying a suit, make sure you know what definition of "quality" you're using.

Is it "quality" in terms of texture and design? Or is it about durability and strengh? Again, always ask yourself “What’s the suit for?” Remember this, or you could end up spending a lot more money and feeling sorley disappointed.

Worsted cloth is rated by numbers. Super 100’s, Super 150’s and higher. These numbers refer to the count, or fineness of the yarn used in the cloth. The finer the count (measured in microns), the more wool is used per square inch of the cloth. Hence the higher the number, the finer and softer the cloth and typically more expensive!

To qualilify as a good, hard-wearing and attractive wool worsted, it must be rated at least in the upper 80’s and 90’s.

The Super 120’s and higher are beautiful cloths, but there’s a price to pay, and not only financial. Although they do feel wonderful, the simple fact is they don't wear very well. They're simply not as durable as their lesser-numbered cousins.

I know this seems a little tragic, but still, if money is no object and you want to feel the finest stuff against your skin, go for the Super 150’s. Or if it’s something special that you won’t wear too often, then go treat yourself.

The other advantage of high-number wool worsteds is, because of the finer yarns used, the weavers are able to get more colours and intricate designs into the fabric. This can make them wholly tempting as you gaze at them and stroke them.

Rest assured, the cost of cloth can differ vastly, and not all for the same reasons.

In summary, Super Numbers look and feel fantastic, but don’t wear as well, and can add  to the cost of your suit. Your more affordable, classic worsteds are usually made into the timeless designs- pin stripes, chalk stripes, Prince of Wales checks etc. So you'll always have room for them in your wardrobe. They make up well and last for years. The downside is the designs are far more standardised, however, for most guys, these are the suits you can wear for years without any fear of them going out of style.