Coil zippers, Tooth zippers, #5, #10, Separating zippers, Non-separating zippers, One-way, Two-way.... what the heck???? Here are the answers to all your zipper queries!

Finished zippers, like the ones you buy in the store, come in two styles: separating (open) and non-separating (closed).

A separating zipper separates into two pieces when unzipped, like a jacket zipper. Separating zippers may be one-way or two-way, unzipping from either the top or the bottom.

A non-separating zipper stays connected at one or both ends when unzipped, like the zipper on your pants, or the zipper on a pocket.

Zippers are made of plastic, nylon or metal. The types of zipper are: coil, tooth and metal.

A coil zipper is flat on one side, with the teeth on the other side. The teeth look like a long coil sewn onto the tape. Each tooth is connected to the next. Coil zippers are low profile, and bend easily. They can be sewn over easily with a standard sewing machine and come in both separating and non-separating styles. They are used on clothing, backpacks, cushions, purses, etc. It is quite simple to make your own non-separating zipper from coil zipper tape.

The teeth on a tooth zipper are equally visible on both sides of the tape and look like the teeth in your mouth. Every tooth is separate from the others. Tooth zippers have bigger teeth than the coil and are NOT easy to sew over with a sewing machine. Tooth zippers are not as flexible as coil zippers and are best suited to straight applications. They are most commonly found on winter jackets and usually come in the separating style. Experienced sewers may make their own zippers from tooth zipper tape and stops, though they are readily available in a wide variety of colours, sizes and lengths.

A metal zipper has metal teeth that are separate. They are usually bought as finished zippers and can have steel or brass teeth. They are used for leather jackets, jeans and marine applications.

The size of a zipper is determined by the size of the teeth. A larger number indicates a heavier zipper. Here are some common applications for common sizes:

• #4 coil- cushions, pockets, purses
• #5 tooth- all season sportswear
• #5 coil- light sportswear, cycling shirts & zip-off pants
• #8 coil- better quality luggage, bags, & tents
• #10 coil & tooth- heavy duty bags or back packs

Zippers are usually bought as finished zippers: cut to a specific length, with stops on the top and bottom to keep the slider on.  If  you do a lot of sewing that requires non-separating zippers, you may want to consider making your own zippers from zipper tape, pulls and stops.

Please note that you cannot make separating zippers from zipper tape. If you need a length of tooth zipper that is not available; buy a longer length, and simply remove some of the teeth from the top of the zipper with small scissors. Be sure to move the stop so your slider does not fall off! 

To make a zipper:

1. Cut the tape a little longer than desired length.
2. Separate only one end of the zipper.
3. Feed the two sides of the zipper into the large end of the slider, wiggling it down until the teeth join back together. For a two-way zipper, repeat this step at the other end. 
4. Extra teeth (on a tooth zipper) at top and bottom ends should be removed with small scissors and top and bottom stops applied. For coil zippers, simply sew over the ends or coil to keep the sliders on.
5. You can also use this process to repair zippers that have lost their sliders.

When applying zipper to garments, it really is best to follow the instructions in the pattern. For lightweight fabrics, I like to baste the zipper before stitching. A zipper foot is a good investment, unless you have a moveable needle. Thank Heaven for my Bernina!!

Just Sew It!

Janet, Extreme Sewing Store