This guide is to help you in your tractor buying pursuit with some general explanations of mechanical problems, how you might  spot them,  and to decide whether it's a problem that's within your mechanical and financial abilities  to deal with.  Each of the following sections should offer some clues as to what to expect with the tractor you're considering.   If you haven't already,  please read Part 1, A Guide To Buying A Used Tractor.   

A Quick Assessment     With some experience, a watchful eye, and just plain common sense, you can often get a good feel as to the condition of a tractor with just a slow walk around.   If there are oil leaks, parts missing, low tires, dented tin or other broken items, you can usually assume the type of care  it's been given was just enough to get by.  If the length of the hole at the end of the drawbar is two or three times it's width, that might well indicate that the tractor has done some hard pulling and/or have a lot of hours on it.  Does the paint have the same lustre as dirt you're standing on or is there actually some sparkle to the paint?  That would be a pretty good indication as to whether it's been kept in a shed, or stored outside.  What are the tires like?  Are there any cracks or previously repaired spots on the frame or any of the castings?  Repaired spots aren't necessarily bad if the repair was done right.

                                                                                     

Do you want to check further? 

Work from one end to the other.   Check the radiator.  It should be full of clean antifreeze. Any oil in the coolant may indicate internal engine leakage.  Try to see if you can see through it from front to back.  If not, it may be plugged with dirt, bugs, or other debris that could lead to uneven or other poor cooling.  If you see any staining, especially white in color on the radiator or block, it could mean that there is a leak or the engine had been overheated and boiled over the coolant.  

Pull the engine oil dipstick.  The oil should be a pure black color.  Any amount of a milky look to the oil indicates the presence of moisture.  A very small amount may be normal in some engines or it may mean that the crankcase breather isn't ventilating properly.
If you see more than trace amounts of the milky substance, it could well mean there is more serious problems such as a head gasket leak or cracked block.  Smell the oil.  With a gasoline motor, if you can smell gas in the oil,  the source could be a faulty carburetor or  fuel pump(if so equipped)  allowing fuel into the crankcase.  Those items themselves are relatively inexpensive to fix, however, the diluting of the oil from the fuel can and may have caused premature wear to internal engine parts such as bearings.  Diesel motors can also have fuel in the oil, however it can be tough to smell it or tell any other way, and by the nature of a diesel there is going to be some fuel dilution especially as it nears it's oil change interval.   

 Start and warm up the tractor.  As you start it, note what the oil pressure is.  When it warms up, check the pressure again. A cold engine pressure can vary greatly but should be at least 30 pounds in most cases and may show up to 80 pounds.  The important one is the pressure when the engine is warmed up.  That should be a minimum 20 psi at an idle and most are 35 or 45 psi.  Open the throttle and watch for the amount and color of smoke from the exhaust.  Although it's maybe over-simplified, a general rule of thumb for exhaust color is this.  Blue smoke(with diesel or gas engines) means there is oil burning,  white is usually a diesel motor that's not up to temp yet.  It can also mean water in the exhaust, in either engine.  And excess amounts of black smoke, in either engine, usually means over-fueling. Even warmed up and running properly, under acceleration a diesel engine will emit black smoke.
Bear in mind that because of emission standards and better engine efficiency, the acceptable amount of smoke will much less on newer tractors.  If you were to compare a five year old tractor with a fifty year old tractor, each with the same hours on the engine, you would see much more smoke on the older tractor.  That's just the way they were made.

Next, check the other gauges and see that they are showing in the normal range.  Is it charging the battery or batteries, and how old are they?  Did it start right up when you started it?  

Try the hydraulic functions.  The drawbar should raise completely and quietly.  Are all the pivot points in an acceptable working condition?   Are the lights and other accessories working?

Check the tires, front and back.  Not just the amount of wear, but also watch for cuts and tears in the sidewalls.  If there's a wide front end, check for breaks or welds, worn bushings, loose tie rods, bends, or anything else abnormal.   Do the brakes grab enough and are the about equal from side to side?  If it has power-steering, does it turn easily and quietly when idling and setting still?
                                                                                             

Check the transmission and rear-axle lube levels.  Is the fluid the correct color, or is it milky colored?  As stated earlier, a milky color indicates that there is water in the oil.  Depending on the type of tractor and the amount of water in the oil,  it could present some serious problems.  Listen as you push in the clutch.  Does it screech or squeal?  Does it apply smoothly and firmly?  Any noises, jerking, or a "mushy" feeling could mean a faulty release bearing or clutch assembly.  Are there any oil leaks from the engine, drivetrain, PTO, or hydraulics?  Special attention should be paid to tractors that are equipped with power-shift, torque-amplifier, hydrostatic or other enhanced drive systems.  Repairs can be particularly expensive for those options!


And finally,  it's always good to see if service records are available.  Also, make sure what you see is what you are buying. Do the dual wheels go along?  And the cab, wheel weights, or the top link for the three-point? If it has a cab, is the heater and air conditioner working, or can you live without them?  Air conditioning is getting more and more to be a very expensive repair!    Is the glass  all good?

Keep In Mind

Many of the concerns mentioned are things that with experience, an operator will know if a problem is acceptable or serious enough to require immediate attention.  Often and when it's possible, it is well worth the time and expense to have a serviceman spend an hour or so going over a tractor before you purchase it, if there are concerns.   Sometimes that  hundred dollars is best spent even if you walk away from the tractor!

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