Here are some basic guidelines that should make your decision easier and assure you that you chose the right equipment for your particular needs. For the purpose of this guide, we will be focusing on a suitable tractor for general purpose farm use on a small farm.

First, decide what you need a tractor for. There's a lot of difference between needing a tractor for mowing an acre, or one that will power a snow blower on a quarter mile driveway. For general farm use, plowing has always been a gauging factor for choosing a tractors size. A "two plow" or "three plow" tractor meant that that tractor could pull a two-bottom or a three-bottom plow sufficiently. A farm with hills or heavy clay soils might require more power, but many a midwest farm was tilled with 2 or 3 plow tractor. A good rule of thumb is that it takes about 15 horsepower per bottom. For example, a two-bottom plow will require about 30 horse, a 5-bottom about 75 horse, and so on. Of course different implements will use varied amounts of power. What works for a small square baler may not be adequate for a round baler. Harrowing a field uses far less power than grinding feed. If you're starting out farming, you should select your tractor first and then and then purchase the needed implements based on the capabilities of your tractor.

Consider what machinery you want your tractor to power. If you are thinking about a hydraulic loader for instance, you should look at tractors with at least "dual" hydraulic connections. Dual remote hydraulic hook-ups are a necessity with many other implements also.

There are a few tractors, especially older ones, that do not have a power take-off (PTO). You shouldn't even consider one without it. The 540 rpm PTO is the most common but more and more implements are using the 1000 rpm PTOs. Many tractors since the 1960s were produced with both PTO speeds. Since the 1950s most tractors also had a "live PTO" meaning the power take-off continued to run after the clutch was pushed in. Most tractors prior to that were such that when the clutch was depressed, everything stopped. That sometimes made it a real challenge when using a mower or trying to let a combine or corn picker clear out weeds or in heavy crops.

"Live hydraulics" is a similar principle in that when you depress the clutch the hyraulic controls still function. This is great feature when using a loader, but there are still many loader tractors being used without it. Many older tractors used a one-way hydraulic system that would lift and then rely on gravity to lower the equipment. Mowers, plows, cultivators, were just a few of the pieces using this system.

The hitch type is a major factor. A three-point hitch would be the best for all around uses, without question. International, Case, and others made their own designs of "lift hitches" and many of those are adaptable to a three-point style with extra parts. There are also after-market three point lifts that are made for many different tractors. They run roughly $300 to $500 and should be considered to be well worth the investment if buying a tractor without a lift.

You shouldn't necessarily be afraid of older tractors. Older, as used in this guide could mean as much as fifty years old or more. Although they probably won't have some of the "bells and whistles" that you might would find more common on "newer" tractors. Power steering for instance. But there are many, many Farmall H's and M's, Ford 8N's, John Deere A's and B's, and others of that vintage that are still not only operational, but working every day for their owners! Farmall which is International Harvester, Allis Chalmers, White, Oliver, and others have not been produced for a couple decades in some cases and yet parts are readily available through dealers such as Case for example, who aquired International Harvester.

In the 1970s there was a large amount of very low-priced, imported tractors distributed in the US by some of the larger mass merchandisers. And there are some companies that are still selling these "bargain" tractors. One comes to mind called Agri-Power, if that's the correct name. They made in Argentina and were marketed by a mega-size building materials discount chain and offered high horsepower and low prices. How they rated the horsepower was questionable compared to other companies. They were much to light weight to utilize their power even if the horsepower was rated correctly. And, parts and service were very limited. Now, some thirty years later there are still a few of this type that turn up on auctions and private sales. These types of tractors should be avoided.

And as with anything else, cost is a major consideration. Bargains can often be found at farm auctions but bear in mind....... at the majority of auctions, when you buy it it's your's for better or for worse. Buying through a dealer is generally higher priced but the risks are also minimized and financing is often available.

As with automobiles, there are some tractors that are consistantly higher in initial cost and usually bring more at trade-in time also. John Deere is probably the top in initial cost and resale. If cost is large issue in your choice of tractors, you'll want to consider looking at tractors that may not have a high resale but can be purchased more reasonably. A couple of examples would be Massey Ferguson and White. They are good quality but typically bring less than some of their equals do on the sale block.

Condition is of course a major factor in selecting your tractor. If you have a shop full of tools and the expertise, you may want to buy a tractor needing work. But beware, often what appears as a simple fix can be much more and really raise havoc with your wallet! You may be well ahead to pay a shop their hourly rate to have a mechanic go over a tractor that you're considering. Here are some other things to watch for.
Tire wear and tread depth remaining
Clutch slippage
Engine knock or miss.... very important
transmission whining or other abnormal sounds
oil leaks anywhere
hard starting
breaks or welded repairs on the frame or castings
or excessive engine smoke.

And finally, extra features and equipment that may be on your tractor can make life a little easier or may even just suit your needs better. Items such as the following should be considered but may add additional cost to your purchase.

1. Cab with heat and air conditioning
2. A wide front end
3. Dual rear wheels
4. Hydrostatic and Powershifts (if in good condition)
5. Gasoline, LP, or diesel engine
6. Power steering
7. Three-point hitch
8. Loader (sometimes included with tractor)

I hope you find this guide useful and that the tractor you select brings you many years of trouble free operation! If you did enjoy this guide or find it was helpful, click on the YES button near the bottom of the page.  I'd be honored!