There is a big market for vintage costume jewelry, and you don't have to be a dealer or an expert to put cash in your pocket and smiles on a buyer's face. Here are some tips to get you started.
The first thing to do is determine condition. Invest in a 10x jeweler's loupe. They are inexpensive and invaluable for finding damage and designer marks. Look for missing, chipped, cracked or "dead" stones (glass or rhinestone that has darkened and lost its shine); plate wear or scratches on metal; chips and cracks in enamel; broken or loose clasps; broken prongs and loose rivets; and verdigris, that green gunk on metal. Check strung necklaces for warped or crimped stringing material. Look for finish damage on beads and simulated pearls. Sort pieces by condition.
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Like New: Pristine, with no signs of wear, all stones present and brilliant, and perhaps with the original tags and/or box.
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Excellent: Minimal signs of wear, all stones present and brilliant, and clasps and findings in perfect working condition.
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Very Good: Overall in excellent condition, but perhaps one or two missing or dark stones, or minor wear visible on the back, but wearable with sound clasps and findings.
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Good: Functional, but shows signs of wear and/or minor damage, or has signs of previous repair.
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Repairable: Missing stones, clasps or findings. Broken beaded necklaces or bracelets that can be restrung.
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Junk: Cracked or broken metal, significant plate wear, inferior materials and construction, or old plastics that have absorbed obnoxious odors.
Check for quality. An excellent book for beginners is Collecting Costume Jewelry 101: the basics of starting, building & upgrading: identification and value guide, by Julia C. Carroll. Search websites devoted to vintage costume jewelry. Look for designer marks and precious metal content. Quality costume jewelry has heft and substance. Superior rhinestones look like gems. High quality plastics look expensive. Quality jewelry often has clasps and findings that are part of the design.
To clean or not to clean? Clean jewelry looks better and has more appeal. Vintage jewelry, however, can be fragile, and some materials can be damaged unless cleaned by an expert. Never use acidic or abrasive cleaners. Never put rhinestones, simulated pearls, plastics, gold- or silver-plated metals or enamel in an ultrasonic jewelry cleaning machine. Old plastics can react to chemicals by turning cloudy or deteriorating, so use water only. Cleaning solutions made especially for delicate jewelry and a baby's toothbrush will remove everyday dust and grime from metals and stones. Rubbing alcohol will remove makeup and body oils. There are some excellent guides on ebay about cleaning old jewelry. If in doubt, leave it alone and let the new owner clean it.
When it's time to list, determine if your piece has collector appeal by searching both current and completed listings. Keep sets together. If you have original tags or boxes, include them. Describe condition and materials accurately, and include any information you know about the jewelry's history. If possible include photographs of designer marks. Don't toss out repairable or junk jewelry. Many people specialize in repairing or restoring old costume jewelry. Crafters, artists, jewelry makers and costumers look for junk to turn into treasure. Misrepresenting materials a big no-no. If you cannot authenticate precious metals, gemstones or pearls, do not list them as such. Read the ebay listing policies carefully, especially when it comes to selling ivory, tortoiseshell, pearls, gems and Native American jewelry. Be aware that there are fakes and forgeries of high-end designer jewelry, so if you do not know a piece's history, do some research.
When you make a sale, package the jewelry with care. Bag individual pieces in case stones come loose in transit. Use bubblewrap to cushion items in boxes. Don't cram pieces together as that can cause breakage or damage to finishes. Insurance is always recommended since many old pieces are impossible to replace.
So there you have it. You don't have to be an expert or dealer to buy and sell vintage costume jewelry on ebay. All you need is an appreciation for fine old things and a bit of a homework.


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