1943 Lincoln Steel Cents PHOTO GUIDE, altered or original finish?

Attempting to determine the difference between an original finish steel cent and a reprocessed (altered finish) steel cent can pose quite a challenge for the eBay buyer. I have found lots of sellers that, knowingly or unknowingly, list 1943 steel cents as having an original finish when in fact they have been reprocessed (altered). Why do you need to know the difference? Because, a reprocessed 1943 Lincoln Cent is not a collectible grade coin and cannot be submitted for grading through any of the leading third party graders (ie, Numismatic Guaranty Corporation or Professional Coin Grading Service). A PCGS MS66 1943 Lincoln Cent is worth approximately $45.00. To a collector, a reprocessed (altered finish) 1943 Lincoln Cent is essentially worthless. That's a HUGE difference.

Briefly, the copper shortage during WWII forced the U.S. Government to produce the 1943 Lincoln Cent from 100% steel with a thin coating of zinc to prevent rust and brighten the coin's surface. There were immediate problems with the circulation of these coins. The public shunned the new penny and thought they were made out of lead (remember, in the old days, the Government didn't always let the public in on what it was doing). The edges rusted quickly because the planchets (the round steel blanks) were punched out AFTER the zinc coating was applied to the sheet. That means that there was no thin layer of zinc on the original 1943 cent's edge (#1 photo). This fact becomes one of the most significant ways to differentiate an original finish steel cent from an altered finish reprocessed coin. It's confusing because sometimes dealers use the terms "processed", "re-coated" and "reprocessed" interchangeably, all referring to reprocessed (altered finish) coins. All steel cents were originally processed, by the U.S. Mint, with a thin zinc coating. This guide is about the reprocessed or altered finish coins (those coins that were treated with a second zinc coating applied by dealers).

Sellers, when listing eBay auctions, seldom if ever depict the coin's edge in a close-up photo. As a buyer, you're required to rely on their honesty and knowledge of the difference. You have to be very trusting, to say the least. In the pictures below, the first stack of coins are steel, original finish, 1943 Lincoln Cents (#1 photo). The second stack consists of lightly reprocessed coins (#2 photo). It's not unusual, under magnification of the originals (#1 photo), to see small rust spots embedded in the smooth edges and on the rims of the coin. This is normal. Sometimes visible, under powerful magnification, are the very light machine lines left by the dies used to punch the planchets from the steel sheets. These machine traces become totally obscured with the second stack due to their second zinc bath. Recoating of the edges, visible on the reprocessed coins, takes on a slightly grainy or bumpy appearance (present, but difficult to pick up in the #2 photo below). However, look very close and you'll see a slight difference from the first stack. This may be the only clue that your purchase was reprocessed and not original.

Sellers will use the term "blue steel" to denote an original finish. Blue steel refers to a light blue tint, usually from oxidation. I've seen both original finish and reprocessed coins with a bluish tint. That term, to describe a steel 1943 Lincoln Cent, doesn't necessarily guarantee an original finish. Check out the two blue steel examples below (#8 and #9 photos). The #8 photo is an original surface and the #9 photo is a reprocessed, lightly pitted, example.

Some vendors, back in the Sixties and Seventies, anxious to recoat the old steel pennies to sell as novelties, didn't even take the time to clean them up. They dumped them straight from their dusty old canvas storage bags into electroplating vats of zinc. That process trapped the dust and debris beneath the shiny new coating. Those coins are fairly easy to spot in hand (#4 photo). They have a proof-like chrome surface that becomes grainy and/or bumpy under closer inspection. They sort of look fake. You'll also see fatter looking lettering and sometimes clogged detail. But, BEWARE, any time there is a quick buck to be made, there are unscrupulous dealers willing to produce and sell "not so obvious" coins for profit (#9 photo). Unfortunately, you probably won't be able to tell if the coin is a reprocessed coin simply over the Internet. Again, the sellers seldom show pictures of the coin's edge. The lightly reprocessed coins are easily listed with small photos, out-of-focus shots or downright fake photos. You have to be careful, even with claims that state... "these are the real deal", "these are not reprocessed junk", "these came from my dead uncle's collection". Unfortunately, I've purchased reprocessed coins from dealers making those statements. You must know who you're dealing with and read their feedback. Make sure that previous buyers were happy with their purchase. And, above all, when buying 1943 steel cents through eBay, make sure you can return the coins if you're not satisfied.

Finally, with high grade mint state examples, look for original mint luster that displays a cartwheeling effect when the coin is slightly tilted in the light. You can see a 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock cartwheel in the examples below (#3 photo, 1943-P and the #5 photo, a 1943-P PCGS graded and encapsulated coin). When tilted, the cartwheel reflection rotates around the surface of the coin. Replating fills the fine metal flow lines (produced during the original strike by high pressure dies smashing against the planchet) that result in the cartwheel effect not being visible. Harsh cleaning, treating or polishing removes this effect from all types of coins, not just steel cents. The #4 photo is a chrome-like surface on a reprocessed cent, that lacks any evidence of cartwheeling (these types are easy to spot without magnification). My advice, get a loop and use it. Closely inspect the edge of the coin for smoothness. Also remember, lightly reprocessed Lincolns can still show incredible detail. Don't be fooled. Some processed Lincoln Cents have been lightly recoated and retain sharp devices. Look for cartwheeling on the obverse and reverse fields. Check the fields for grainy areas or pitting (#9 photo). Check for bumpy spots (sloppy recoating over the dust and debris). Obtain an original finish steel cent and keep it for comparison. I hope this helps a little, beetleman

And please give me a "yes " vote if you found this information the least bit useful. I greatly appreciate it. Thanks you, Patrick (beetleman)

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