Didn't your Mama tell you less is more! Well, we've got some beauty secrets even your own Mama didn't know! This guide is for the girl who has everything and wants more! Having created looks for top magazines like Italian Vogue, & Glamour. So, I've come to know a few little tidbits that every girl should keep under her wig [oops! that's the Sixties, I mean under her hat!] before picking up that brush and going for the gold in glamour.

Welcome to Beauty Secrets your Mama should have told ya...

SECRET no.1 AVOID the 'TRIANGLE of DEATH'

Moisturizer is key to beautiful and healthy looking skin . Application and choosing the right product is essential to keeping your facial skin silky and smooth. The 'SECRET' is to apply only what is needed and not over indulge, especially in what I like to call the 'triangle of death,' (you can map this area on your face by creating an upside down triangle with your hands and going up the outer edge of your nose expanding to the corners of your eye.)

This area is where your skin is the most delicate and thin and it needs to be treated as such. Overdoing it can only make the area puffy and possibly damage it with longterm over saturation and rubbing. Remember, if your facial moisturizer feels heavy and greasy, then it is! The best facial moisturizers are light to the touch, so silky and light on your face that you hardly notice the application -- basically, don't suffocate your face, let it breathe. Know your skin type , shop to find what works best for you! Remember avoid that 'triangle of death.'

MAMA, Why is that woman wearing a mask ?

SECRET No. 2 Your skin is not simply one color!

You are not a barbie doll made of plastic & you are definitely not monochromatic, so stop thinking that way! I only wish cosmetic companies would stop pushing one color of base per bottle , stick or compact. Think of yourself as an already created work of art and really look in the mirror .

You will find that sometimes that perhaps your forehead is darker or your under eye area;  or that your cheeks have less pigment than say your nose. Using different shades close to these different  shades of your face,  apply your foundations or creme sticks (I happen to love Benefit's!) Once these different areas of your face have foundation applied, you can now blend all your colors by extending them into one another. Using this technique, you will find you will have more depth to your base with a much more natural and healthy look.

That's the secret to a beautiful base or should I say a natural face. Keep in mind, under your chin you will be a lighter shade so I advise you go a tad darker since no one wants to be known as a 'chicken neck.' If you use a sea sponge you can have more marks than if you blend it in with your fingertips or a sponge wedge. . I love base sticks by Bobbi Brown &Benefit. For liquid foundation I just adore MAC and Clinque.

That woman's got racoon eyes! MAMA

SECRET No. 3 DON'T go CRAZY for COVER-UP

Going crazy with mint green and yellow cover-up to hide dark circles is a mistake.If you really need cover-up embrace sheer light tones that blend well with your base; Bobbi Brown actually has a new release of such tones that are more in line with facial tones.

However, if you absolutely have to majorly hide them, then do it with the most professional cover up that has yet to be conquered by others - Derma Color. Derma Blend was made for originally for scar and burn victims to hide flaws and Derma Color is a more transparent off shoot of that orginal formula -- so if you are going down that road to cover something, then I suggest the secret of going with the best and not messing around with product that will empty your pocket and not give you satisfaction. I've told this secret to mothers who couldn't sleep before their daugthers wedding and they always thanked me afterwards. Please ladies don't wase your time with cover-ups that promise the moon and just crease under your eye.

Beam her up Scotty!!!

SECRET No. 4 AVOID 'BROW BURN'

Eye Brows arched in the right place can be divine while ones that, as I like to say,  'brow burned' can make you look like Mr. Spock and someone might just want beam you up. The secret to a refined brow without that plucked beyond perfection look is to focus on the under part of the eyebrows.

Find your natural arch, usually you can find it by looking straight into the mirror and going on a diagonal with a pencil out from your eyeball , counter clock wise on your right and clockwise on your left, at a ten to twelve degree angle to find your natural arch is where you need to pluck.

I am a fan of plucking and find waxing can take away too much or look very unnatural without a delicate touch making it too Star Trek for me. Really work your natural arch on the underside of your brow and don't go crazy on the top and you will really see the difference!

Is that Bert, Earnie or Oscar the Grouch, Mama?

SECRET No. 5 BROW subtly - you're not Frida Kahlo

You're not Frida Kahlo, the famous Mexican artist. Most overdone eye brows can look like a bad movie , so be subtle whether you use a pencil or powder to fill in your spaces. The secret is to subtly apply a matching color to the mid area of the brows and not focus so much on the area above the eye near the nose, same for a very light amount of color to fill in the outer area (too much shade in this area of the eyebrow will have you looking like a Sesame Street character). If you even start in this area you might not come out alive.

The best tip I can give you is to use a flat angled brush to bring out the powder or pencil you apply to your brow and if you don't have a flat angled brush then now is the time to get one!

Why does that girl look like a boy Mama?

SECRET No. 6 SPORTY and Beautiful

Don't sacrifice beauty for that workout...you can play in the big leagues and be a super model too! Think water proof and and get it!

There are plenty of mascaras, lipsticks, and eyeshadow now that can stand the heat. As far as foundation goes though I must again tell you Drema Color by Derma Blend! The others might hold through the first set but then they will move and melt.

The secret to making this athletic foundation look work is to make sure what you wear will be long-lasting and strong enough stay where you put it and not run down your face until you remove it with makeup remover! When applying water proof and long-lasting makeup use it sparingly and blend it well. Now you get out there slugger and WIN! I love water proof eye make-up by Clinque - (esp. a baby blue they had last summer), tell them to make it again.

Is she Sunburned mama, cause she looks MAD ?

SECRET No. 7 Subtle Blush

OK - Overdone Rosey cheeks scream girlfriend with a tick if you know what I mean. The secret here is to apply your blush after your foundation and then powder it afterward to soften the edge.

If your blush is still too bright, dab a tad of foundation on the tip of your finger and blend it on the blushed cheek bone area.

Another trick is to apply the blush just under the cheek bone (neutral shades of soft rust and brown work best here) with a ligher pink of mauve sade on the actual cheek, again powdering after application. Just remember, if you think it looks rosey then you need to take it down a knotch - think of blush as your shy moment in makeup application.

There's a SPIDER on your EYEBALL GURL!

SECRET No. 8 Mascara NOT MASK-SCARE-HUR

Mascara should be applied as delicately as the lashes themselves with no clumps or a heavy hand, Tammy Faye Baker has had that over-done eye moment market covered for years.

CARDINAL RULE: Always curl your lashes first before your mascara application or you run the risk of ripping out a few of those delicious lashes!

To acheive fantastic lift to you lashes place the curler first at the very root of your lashes and press gently to make sure you don't have skin from your eyelid, then apply a curl at middle of the lash for ultimate lift.

Follow your curl by a delicate combing to remove any unsightly clumps. Excellent lash combs can be found by Tweezerman or there are even now plastic throw-away lash combs which you can big in bags of 50. My favorite mascaras are Bobbi Brown, Mabelline and 'Bad Girl' by Benefit.

Mama, Is that powdered toast on her face?

SECRET No. 9 A POWDER PUFF Girl, you ain't

If the powder in your hand looks powdery - it is! It's not the 40's any more girls and I personally don't enjoy seeing walking cadavers.

Choose tranlucent powders that are light to the touch that don't look obviously opague or powdery  when you press them between your fingers.

Again, less is more when applying powder these days. I personally love Bobbi Brown , Aveda and MAC's translucent powders.

In my opinion, avoid Dual finish powders unless you're really young with no lines, I personally feel they are for lazy people or a model photoshoot with a sixteen year old who can stand the creasing - way too funeral parlor for me. Again less is MORE!

Mama, Is she a MOVIE STAR?

SECRET No. 10 SEXY Sheen

All I can say is YES YES YES!!!!! - Bobbi Brown ,NARS , Aveda , Clinque , Benefit , MAC even Avon - all have some of the best sheen products out there for you and I say you GO GIRL and get some so I can dance at your Wedding! A secret here to make it even more dewy is to have a small size Evian Atomizer in your purse for that oh so fresh look when he walks up to you and says, "Do you believe in Love at first sightor do I have to walk by again?"

PPS.....the wonderful thing about life and being alive is sharing what you know and learning something new everyday from someone else. I hope I gave you something you not only enjoyed reading but also can use! All makeup by Olan Montgomery through his postion as creative director for MAR magazine. All photos by Robert Epstein.